Garrard SP20 Turntable Repair

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JR3
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Garrard SP20 Turntable Repair

Post by JR3 » 07 Jun 2017 15:39

Hello! I'm new here and have been posting about receivers, amps, and various other items in the other forums, but have a question regarding an inherited Garrard SP20. From what I gather, the SP20 is essentially the same as the SP25, but with a few less options?

My question really lies with the need for a reliable service manual, which I can find for the SP25, but cannot locate one specifically for the SP20.

Any Garrard pros out there able to help me out? Thanks!!

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Re: Garrard SP20 Turntable Repair

Post by DSJR » 07 Jun 2017 22:08

I'm so sorry, I can't remember the name of the changer version of the SP20, which will cover tonearm servicing. Poster A70BBen will know as I think he has at least one ;)

The mechs of all Autoslim variants are basically the same with minor variations. I don't know if the SP20 main control was the same, with stop, manual and 'lift' positions, or whether the far right setting is 'reject.' the motor may not be 4 pole either, but you can see visually what type it is. The platter looks to be the basic type, but many mm cartridges can still be used I think.


Here's some text I nicked from elsewhere, by someone ;) who knows these things :D

"The Garrard SP20 is a poor-man's SP25, built on the same chassis. The tonearm is not fully counterbalanced as is the SP25's and the motor is a two-pole instead of a four pole. That means it spins twice as fast. Basic rumble frequency from the motor is a bit down from 50Hz in the UK instead of 25Hz on an SP25, so you'll get more audible noise and vibration. You also may need a new idler, or a resurface job on the existing one.

... the autocycle cam is to the right of the spindle. First, see if the two visible levers (edit - trip pawls) on the cam (one on top, the other down below but it has a stud that is visible through the slot in the top lever) are moving freely. They should be; if not you will have to remove the cam, take those two levers out, and clean out the dried up yellow grease that has gotten them stuck. I run them dry; any oil or grease will dry out eventually. If those levers are OK, try to rotate the cam anticlockwise. You should be able to turn it anticlockwise a full turn, and thus operate the autoreturn. If it's stuck, you have the usual Garrard yellow grease problem and need to find out where something is stuck."

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Re: Garrard SP20 Turntable Repair

Post by JR3 » 08 Jun 2017 02:14

Thanks! I think I saw that post somewhere...One of my main problems has been understanding and finding info on the basics, specifically of this unit. For example, there wasn't a power cable attached. Finding any information about the right type, connector, etc., has proven difficult. I appreciate your help and may check out the SP25 guide and start there!

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Re: Garrard SP20 Turntable Repair

Post by A70BBen » 09 Jun 2017 04:08

SP20 was built on the Autoslim chassis with the tonearm of the Model 50 and 40 Mk Ii. It lacks the integrated tonearm cueing of the SP25, being a Model 50 without the tall record-changing spindle and the linkage for operating it; the overarm and the record sensor operated by the overarm; and the record-size sensor lever and size selector mechanism. Early SP20 production was with two-pole motors, but the later ones had four-pile motors.

The service manuals for Garrard SP20 and Model 50 are not in the Library section; the AT6 was the next earlier model, the 50 Mk II the next newer model and both those service manuals can be downloaded for free. Repair and servicing procedures are the same.

Power cable connections for SP20 units sold through official USA retail channels were by a plug-in Amplok plug that incorporated the chassis grounding wire. This could differ in other territories and for SP20s integrated into phonographs, consoles and other equipment; Garrard would build to the specifications of their manufacturers.

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Re: Garrard SP20 Turntable Repair

Post by JR3 » 09 Jun 2017 16:02

Thanks A70BBen (Or whatever your name is)! Do you know if it is possible to direct connect the power cable and if I wanted to, what is the best way to do this? I've not had a lot of luck finding anything local that fits. I'm going to grab the manuals you mentioned and start there.

Also, it appears my grandpa or someone took this one out of it's box/console and I was curious the best way to construct an enclosure for it. My plan is to use it on a table top. Thanks!

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Re: Garrard SP20 Turntable Repair

Post by A70BBen » 10 Jun 2017 08:38

If yours is an SP20 distributed by the official USA importer British Industries Corp., the power cord will be connected by an Amplok plug. Lacking that plug, you can use, by whatever means you can, the contacts labeled "Power Supply" in the attached image. The Amplok plug also includes the chassis ground connection; you can connect a ground wire to the screw that holds the Amplok jack to the chassis, instead.
Amplok Plug Connections.jpg
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Re: Garrard SP20 Turntable Repair

Post by A70BBen » 12 Jun 2017 08:12

SP20_Ad.JPG
(784.73 KiB) Downloaded 654 times

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Re: Garrard SP20 Turntable Repair

Post by JR3 » 14 Jun 2017 15:28

That's cool, I love the ad! Thanks for the power cable diagram as well, that helps. My hope is to get to this tonight, but who knows. My work schedule has been hectic.

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Re: Garrard SP20 Turntable Repair

Post by A70BBen » 15 Jun 2017 02:24

Incidentally, $37.50 in 1965 has inflated to around $290 now!

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Re: Garrard SP20 Turntable Repair

Post by JR3 » 15 Jun 2017 03:03

Geez...I've got some work to do to make mine worth the $37.50. :)

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Re: Garrard SP20 Turntable Repair

Post by JR3 » 15 Jun 2017 03:06

Oh...Any thoughts on building a box for this thing?? Or quick start guide for mourning/boxing a turn table in the right way?

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Re: Garrard SP20 Turntable Repair

Post by A70BBen » 15 Jun 2017 08:15

Quickest way would be to find a base for it. ANY base for any Garrard Autoslim-chassis record changer or single player would work...Autoslim, AT6, Model 50, AT60, 40 Mk II, 50 Mk II, SL55 and SL65 including "B" variants, SLx, SLx2, X-10 (but not X-11), any SP25 model, 125SB, 35SB...AND the Unimech models.

I favor the one that is shown in the SP20 ad...it is made of solid walnut, not veneer on chipboard.

Otherwise you would need to get the template for the cutout in the board on which you will be mounting your SP20, make yourself a mounting board out of plywood, and build a box to hold it in.

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Re: Garrard SP20 Turntable Repair

Post by JR3 » 15 Jun 2017 18:46

Cool - I didn't think about being able to find a base for it used, but that is a good idea. I'll check E-bay.

On the SP20 itself, any tips on getting rid of the yellow gunk in the mechs? It doesn't seem to be moving well. The motor is pretty noisy as well, but that may be due to my bad power cable job. I'll redo it and see if that helps.

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Re: Garrard SP20 Turntable Repair

Post by A70BBen » 15 Jun 2017 20:24

Motor bearings may be dry and require relubrication. Use a good quality machine oil (Garrard used to say "that for sewing machines is suitable." Do not use WD-40 as it is mostly volatile solvents that will rapidly evaporate.

You may need powerful solvent such as acetone or Methyl Ethyl Ketone, or lacquer thinner to remove the dried-out grease. A penetrant such as PB Blaster could help, too but you have to wash all of it off. I'd bet the automatic trip is stuck, too...that is usually the first thing to get stuck. We can refer you to an instruction as to how to fix that, specifically, but it is pretty basic...it is on the big silver gear wheel, under the platter. The trip levers must be DRY...they do not get lubricated.

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Re: Garrard SP20 Turntable Repair

Post by DSJR » 15 Jun 2017 21:36

I've used electronic aerosol solvent cleaners (not the switch lubricating type) to very good effect. Unlike some BSR's where the platter seems to get stuck on the main spindle, the Garrard platters should be removable with care to remember which way round the fixing clip goes and taking care with the easily bent aluminium trim around the platter centre.

I've said it a thousand times now, but the trip pawls on the cam should rattle like tambourine leaves if the cam is shaken. There's maybe some black tar-like grease in the running 'groove' under the cam - don't touch this. The 'finger' that pokes through the top plate and engages in this groove has a rotating running piece and it's been suggested to ensure this can rotate freely - all mine do without difficulty but I thought I'd mention it.

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