Post
by Luicas » 08 Sep 2018 17:52
Hi everyone. Got my new PLX-1000 yesterday. I want to share valuable info.
My unit came with a nice platter, with almost imperceptible lateral runout, and no wobble at all. Same as my SL-Q2.
Got it a local DJ shop, great price (much better than online!). I wanted to have a chance to check it out before paying for it, as there's too much drama on several forums going on about its Hanpin origins.
Out of the box, it had a very slight but noticeable tonearm bearing play. The shop owner, a DJ himself, said that "informed" turntablists prefer a slightly loose TOP (vertical axis, right-left arm movement) gimbal bearings, and that adjusting them to zero play would be according to each user's preference. He showed me his own technics sl-1200's and they all had that tiny bit amount of play. Dunno about turntablism myself, so that could've been just some bad sales pitch.
Once at home, it took me 5 minutes to get the top tonearm bearing in check, to the point where, when floating the arm, it would freely move sideways while blowing VERY softly at about a 6" distance. Just the top gimbal bearing needs adjustment. The side gimbal (up-down tonearm movement) is PERFECTLY adjusted out of the box, as should be. To test this, you float the arm, and place a tiny square of paper on top of the headshell (1cm x 1cm) and it should lower freely. Which it did. This leads me to believe the DJ's comments.
I have several technics headshells with mounted and aligned carts (for my SL-Q2 which has the exact same geometry as an SL1200), and they DO NOT follow the same 215mm pivot-to-spindle Stevenson arc, meaning, the tonearm tube is indeed shorter than on the technics. That's why Pioneer specs a 54mm distance from headshell flange to stylus tip, while Technics specs a 52mm distance. So, I realigned my AT440mlb for the Pioneer, using the SAME arc protractor (215mm pivot to spindle) I use for my Technics, and it meant moving the cart a tiny bit forward. Still lots of room on the technics headshell for doing a Baerwald, for example.
Results are better than expected. This PLX-1000 seems to be the real deal. Weighs a ton. I accidentally bumped the rack where the TT sits on, and there was no needle jump, not even a "thud" through the speakers. Dampening and sound quality-wise, it's well ahead my SL-Q2 and MMF 5.1.
Tested several of my well known recordings. Perfect speed stability, zero sibilance, and a sensibly quieter background. I don't want to come up with ludicrous audiophile mumbo-jumbo, but if my "sound memory" doesn't fail me, the bass is much more defined, less muddy than on my other decks. Mids and highs sound spot on, no sibilance, and of course, I can crank the amp as hard as it'll go with zero feedback.
It seems to be a very solid performer.
Another concern about this TT is the high starting and braking torque, and it's influence on cogging. To that respect, my findings are that indeed, it has a very high starting/braking torque, but once the platter is stabilized, the torque goes down to about the same level as an SL-1200. My observations come from using my cleaning brush on the spinning vinyl. It's speed lowers very predictably, as on the technics. The motor doesn't fight you at a high torque, but at the regular accustomed torque.
Will keep on posting any upcoming good (or bad) things. Main interest is to demystify the "just another Hanpin" theory surrounding the PLX-1000. Any other question, please shoot, I'll try to give the most objetive answer.
Cheers.
Luis