AT LP120 Cue arm damping problem

[Boltman92124]

There is als the new VM95e coming out. About $45 I think.

[Quartz_Lock10729]

Thanks for the heads up!

[Am365]

Hello all I’m new here but a google search took me straight to this link and was exactly what I wanted,can’t be bad so I signed up!
Just to thank you for the replies really as I’ve noticed the arm goes down only so far,then it drops like you guys...Bad...Very.
I like slow and with complete control.
I’ve tried seeing what the adjuster screw feels like (with proper JA
P screwdrivers) and I hadn’t thought of the oil so will check that out cheers..
Apart from this (obviously fairly common then!) it seems a decent bit of kit as it is,maybe many users like DJ’s just don’t bother cuing like this ,I don’t always ,but would still like it to not crash down if I do use it... It feels cheap though,no thrills but one thing I started doing is when bringing the lever down,if you gently put some outward pressure as you bring it down (as opposed to the ‘dead centre where it seems to collect the slack ,pretty loose isn’t it?) the slight resistance you generate doing that ,seems to control it much better and in a slow single motion,which is what we want..
Thanks anyway,interesting site here,pleased to find it!

[Am365]

Put a bit of the silicone fluid in both, and put the bar back on. Do not screw it in very much. Instead, put the cartridge body back on and then, with a record on, adjust the cuing arm down to the desired height with the screw.

You say put the fluid in both the holes....in an earlier post the guy said put the fluid in the hole with the screw in..then one said all three holes....of the three holes which hole or holes does the fluid go in?

Yes, how many holes in there? 1,2 or 3?

[Am365]

[/quote]

You say put the fluid in both the holes....in an earlier post the guy said put the fluid in the hole with the screw in..then one said all three holes....of the three holes which hole or holes does the fluid go in?
[/quote]

Any idea how many holes there are 1,2 or 3 same question (before I take it apart!)

[Am365]

Surprised this isn’t already here,hope it helps someone!

https://youtu.be/lX_iU3nWzSM

[Boltman92124]

Hello all I’m new here but a google search took me straight to this link and was exactly what I wanted,can’t be bad so I signed up!
Just to thank you for the replies really as I’ve noticed the arm goes down only so far,then it drops like you guys...Bad...Very.
I like slow and with complete control.
I’ve tried seeing what the adjuster screw feels like (with proper JA
P screwdrivers) and I hadn’t thought of the oil so will check that out cheers..
Apart from this (obviously fairly common then!) it seems a decent bit of kit as it is,maybe many users like DJ’s just don’t bother cuing like this ,I don’t always ,but would still like it to not crash down if I do use it... It feels cheap though,no thrills but one thing I started doing is when bringing the lever down,if you gently put some outward pressure as you bring it down (as opposed to the ‘dead centre where it seems to collect the slack ,pretty loose isn’t it?) the slight resistance you generate doing that ,seems to control it much better and in a slow single motion,which is what we want..
Thanks anyway,interesting site here,pleased to find it!

http://www.turntablebasics.com/silicone.html

Use this stuff. Basically, I just put a drop right in both sides of the holes. It will work well. Careful not to lose your spring.

[Am365]

Yes thanks for that- so just two holes aprt from where the scew and spring goes...
What are the holes like? just flat bottomed and just support for the sliding posts that hold it in place I presume?

[Canadianguy51]

This post is several months old, but just in case someone else sees it.. I bought the silicone damping fluid linked above, and used it. I wanted to share what I found.

I took off the cartridge body off the tone arm and took the screw out of the cuing bar. You have to unscrew quite a bit to get the cuing arm off, as the screw not only holds the bar in, but also sets its level.

Once the screw is completely loosened, remove the bar. You will have to maneuver it carefully around the tone arm, as the tone arm does not move quite all of the way out of the way, but you can get the bar out with the tone arm all the way in toward the center of the platter.

There will be two holes, in addition to the one the screw came out of. Put a bit of the silicone fluid in both, and put the bar back on. Do not screw it in very much. Instead, put the cartridge body back on and then, with a record on, adjust the cuing arm down to the desired height with the screw.

Re-calibrate the downforce, and see how it works. If the cuing arm still goes down too fast, repeat the process and add a little more of the silicone fluid. Repeat until you have the desired speed.

My cuing arm works beautifully now - better than it did when new.

Hi...I only see 2 holes the one the screw comes out and the hole in front of it, where is the other? Talking about around the thread screw post?

[Boltman92124]

This post is several months old, but just in case someone else sees it.. I bought the silicone damping fluid linked above, and used it. I wanted to share what I found.

I took off the cartridge body off the tone arm and took the screw out of the cuing bar. You have to unscrew quite a bit to get the cuing arm off, as the screw not only holds the bar in, but also sets its level.

Once the screw is completely loosened, remove the bar. You will have to maneuver it carefully around the tone arm, as the tone arm does not move quite all of the way out of the way, but you can get the bar out with the tone arm all the way in toward the center of the platter.

There will be two holes, in addition to the one the screw came out of. Put a bit of the silicone fluid in both, and put the bar back on. Do not screw it in very much. Instead, put the cartridge body back on and then, with a record on, adjust the cuing arm down to the desired height with the screw.

Re-calibrate the downforce, and see how it works. If the cuing arm still goes down too fast, repeat the process and add a little more of the silicone fluid. Repeat until you have the desired speed.

My cuing arm works beautifully now - better than it did when new.

Hi...I only see 2 holes the one the screw comes out and the hole in front of it, where is the other? Talking about around the thread screw post?

The well around the spring hole. I'm certain I put some into the spring hole too. Moved it around with a toothpick to even it out. Works great. In fact, I probably put too much in there the first time and the arm lowered very slowly and then loosened up after awhile. I re-applied more of it about a year later. They sure do give you alot of it! Lifetime supply lol!

[The_Inspector_069]

Unfortunately, the newly released LP120XUSB is no stranger to this problem. I have both the LP120 & the new LP120X. I haven't noticed the issue with the 120 that I purchased almost a year ago. However, the 120X just started, and that turntable was purchased in August, 2019.

I have seen many resolutions to this problem, here and on YouTube. The remedy sounds simple. But no one actually shows the detail. I found one video, but the individual, being he filmed his segment alone, neglected to show detail. For example, zooming in on the area in question. He also uses a cotton swap. This is a huge mistake. The cotton fibers will adhere to the gel, causing even a bigger mess, and of course a headache. The tool needed is a non-porous object. For instance a small "plastic" applicator. In my case, I use one of the plastic tabs that is inserted into the collar of one of my dress shirts.

From my evaluation, the Silicone Gel/ Oil should be applied to the piston/ rod that goes up and down when using the cue lever. In the video, the gentlemen was filling the open areas. One, where the screw is inserted, which I think is useless. And the other is the piston/rod area, which makes more sense.

I am open to comments. I think it is sad that we Audio Technica owners have to even go through this process. Once my gel arrives, I plan on taking photos of inserting the gel into the proper area. I wish I could submit a video on here, but the system not set up for that.

[Direct driver]

Unfortunately, the newly released LP120XUSB is no stranger to this problem. I have both the LP120 & the new LP120X. I haven't noticed the issue with the 120 that I purchased almost a year ago. However, the 120X just started, and that turntable was purchased in August, 2019.

I have seen many resolutions to this problem, here and on YouTube. The remedy sounds simple. But no one actually shows the detail. I found one video, but the individual, being he filmed his segment alone, neglected to show detail. For example, zooming in on the area in question. He also uses a cotton swap. This is a huge mistake. The cotton fibers will adhere to the gel, causing even a bigger mess, and of course a headache. The tool needed is a non-porous object. For instance a small "plastic" applicator. In my case, I use one of the plastic tabs that is inserted into the collar of one of my dress shirts.

From my evaluation, the Silicone Gel/ Oil should be applied to the piston/ rod that goes up and down when using the cue lever. In the video, the gentlemen was filling the open areas. One, where the screw is inserted, which I think is useless. And the other is the piston/rod area, which makes more sense.

I am open to comments. I think it is sad that we Audio Technica owners have to even go through this process. Once my gel arrives, I plan on taking photos of inserting the gel into the proper area. I wish I could submit a video on here, but the system not set up for that.

Back 12 years or so ago, in Youtube's infancy, I saw a video on how to "reset" an epson color cartridge to allow refilling and use. It showed how you could push a paperclip end into a small hole in the plastic side to reset. It didn't work. The hole was not a hole. I disassembled an ink cartridge and the "hole" was simply a part of the decorative pattern molded into the plastic. The video was a complete hoax.

There was another one regarding hacking keyless entry on cars.

People have to be careful with what they see on youtube regarding repairs. Sometimes the incorrect content is just an honest mistake. Sometimes it is a practical joke on the viewer, and sometimes it is malicious, especially if implementing it may cause damage.

Meanwhile, I might try the "effective" part of the video above on mine. It's not a big deal. Mind dropped like a stone when I bought it used a couple of years ago. I have no problem hand dropping it. I did it with my old AR turntable back in the day. I'll live. :)

[thediscinmusician]

Did the old “Leave it up for 24 hrs trick” and it fixed it for the time being. Thanks for the input. If all else fails I have the grease I need to do it that way but this is working for now. Can’t explain it...