I'm still working on my Dual 1228.
I purchased dualfred's Dual lube set. I am following Dualcan's cam servicing guide.
The oils I have in the dualfred set don't seem to align with what Klaus uses. I have two qestions.
Klaus refers to Wacker AK 100,000 silicon oil, but the lube set only has 300,000 and 500,000 weights. Which of the 7 oils in the set should I substitute for 100,000?
Klaus says to use Alvania/Gadus on the friction plate and shutoff lever. The oils in the set are numbered and the numbers supposedly line up with the oils referred to in the Dual service manual. In the service manual, #4 is called Shell Alvania No. 2. In the dualfred set, #4 is a small tub of grease. But in the Klaus' photos where he is using what he refers to as Alvania/Gadus, he is using a syringe. That seems to imply a liquid oil, not a grease. So his Alvania doesn't seem to match dualfred's Alvania. So what do I use on the shutoff lever?
Is Alvania a liquid or a grease?
If anyone has any more detailed info about what lubes to use where, please let me know. The Dual 1228 service manual is veryvague about lubrication.
I would try to contact Klaus directly but his website says he can't respond at the moment due to health issues.
Thanks!
Lubrication confusion
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- long player
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Re: Lubrication confusion
Hi igby,
I recently had a full service on my cam wheel: I used the closest grade silicon oil i could find (300.000) and it worked fine.
Re: Alvania (now re-named Gadus): it is actually a grease. I also use a syringe filled with the stuff to limit the amount when using it on the parts where it is needed. The amount needed is usually a tiny bit.
The Renotac adhesive oil can be replaced by a good chainsaw oil.
Hope it helps,
Cheers,
Hugh.
I recently had a full service on my cam wheel: I used the closest grade silicon oil i could find (300.000) and it worked fine.
Re: Alvania (now re-named Gadus): it is actually a grease. I also use a syringe filled with the stuff to limit the amount when using it on the parts where it is needed. The amount needed is usually a tiny bit.
The Renotac adhesive oil can be replaced by a good chainsaw oil.
Hope it helps,
Cheers,
Hugh.
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- long player
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- Location: San Clemente, California
Re: Lubrication confusion
I offer small cups of Gadus (Alvania) along with lift rings and steuerpimpels but it's not real economical to ship the Alvania outside of the US (CAN is a little less). It is a grease, but it also works in a large syringe intended for thick stuff like this, as Hugh mentions. For cueing, online there is Kyosho 100,000, 300,000 and 500,000 siliconol and they can be combined and even combined with the old siliconol in the Duals; I have not found that it ages; only that it disappears over time. A couple bottles of 300,000 and 500,000 gives you a) a 2-human lifetimes supply b) ability to make 400,000 mix if you need to (I have done, and it works great). This evidently is used in RC racer differentials as I understand it. The adhesive chainsaw oil replacement for Renotac is readily available, just pick a well respected brand (also a 2-human lifetime supply if you don't own a chainsaw). Best wishes, Don (mrow2)
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Re: Lubrication confusion
Once again I'll put a plug in for Phil's Tenacious Oil as a substitute for Renotac. It works great and you don't have to buy it by the gallon. It is usually available in better bicycle shops for about $7 for 4 oz. (enough to service a pallet of Duals)
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Re: Lubrication confusion
In my personal experience, using 3000000 silicone oil was a regrettable exercise of futility in tonearm cuing tubes in different Dual turntables including a BIC 980. 5000000 silicone oil will be a better choice in most instances unless all agree that certain Dual models don't work well with 5000000 silicone oil. You want a nice slow drop of tonearm stylus to record, this being especially so if you are using low gram tracking cartridge with fragile stylus design.
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- junior member
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Re: Lubrication confusion
Thanks everyone for the advice. I'm really hoping I don't need any more lubricants than what I've already purchased from dualfred.
I should be able to get this lube job finished this weekend. Then I just need a stylus and a stuerpimpel and this turntable should, hopefully, live again.
I should be able to get this lube job finished this weekend. Then I just need a stylus and a stuerpimpel and this turntable should, hopefully, live again.
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Re: Lubrication confusion
igby largeman wrote:Thanks everyone for the advice. I'm really hoping I don't need any more lubricants than what I've already purchased from dualfred.
I should be able to get this lube job finished this weekend. Then I just need a stylus and a stuerpimpel and this turntable should, hopefully, live again.
What is the status of your turntable? Is it up and running yet :?:
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- junior member
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Re: Lubrication confusion
Sadly, no. Life got in the way so I haven't made progress lately. Remaining tasks:BoblK wrote: What is the status of your turntable? Is it up and running yet :?:
- I probably need to disassemble and lubricate the lift mechanism, as I don't think it's dampened enough and will drop the tonearm too quickly.
- I need to buy a steuerpimpel.
- I need to buy a stylus.
- I don't think the start/stop cycle is functioning correctly, so I need to diagnose that. Hopefully it's just caused by my temporary steuerpimpel (plastic pen ink tube), but I have a feeling there's something really wrong.