What to expect when your expecting a TD160

[JDJX]

The tonearm wire looks "thick" because it is shielded. It is really very high quality, and very fine, shielded cable, and quite flexible.

Yeah....
I also once had a Thorens 145 (purchased new) which is of course identical to the 160, with the addition of an end of LP tone arm pickup.

With that and, my present 165, when you set the tone arm to "float" (no tracking force).... with any slight air current, the tone arm will swing either way...in the direction the current.
In other words, the tine arm wires do not seem to inhibit tone are movement at all.

As a related issue....
Some seem to replace tone arm wires because of some sort feeling that the old wire is no longer good etc, or new wires are just better somehow and then, convince themselves that the new wires sound better.

[euromut]

I will have the arm already apart for cleaning and servicing the bearings. This was really the only reason I considering the rewire. Kind of a "while your in there" you may as well.

Also, as an odd note. My TD 160 has no transport screws, screw holes or blocks for them on the plinth. Did early units not come with them? SN 074875.

[JDJX]

Do you have these access holes which are the transport screws access which are independent of the plinth?
I believe the transport screws just secure the floating/sprung platform to the top (stationary) plate

I suspect that over time, that maybe the paper labels just let loose and are no longer present on many TTs .
This pic is from "Vinyl Nirvana" and perhaps he put the labels on.

There are no labels, on my 165, just the access holes.

To be honest, I do not remember if my 145 had labels either.
However, I'm positive that they were in the same place as I bought that new.

160TS1x.jpg

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[euromut]

Do you have these access holes which are the transport screws access which are independent of the plinth?

I suspect that over time, the paper labels just let loose and are no longer present on many TTs .
There are no labels, on my 165, just the access holes.

To be honest, I do not remember if my 145 had labels either.
However, I'm positive that they were in the same place as I bought that new.

Nope, no holes at all. And no screws under the bottom cover either. Other than the notches for the cables, the only hole on the bottom cover lines up with the tone arm pivot. Possible for accessing the lift mechanism. Next time I have it open, I will take pictures. The blocks that the transport screws would pass through are absent as well.

[euromut]

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4373/3684 ... 25e4_c.jpg
Borrowed this picture from another VE user.

There is nothing for the screws to attach too, the sides of the plinth have no evidence of them ever having been present.

[JDJX]

That's strange.
Did someone possibly replace the bottom?
This is not an uncommon mod.

Anyway, if you are not going to ship it. I would not be concerned about it :)

[euromut]

Unsure. If it's a replacement plinth. It looks exactly like the original. I'm not worried. Just a bit of a curiosity.

I'll be replacing the plinth anyeay. And from what I can tell. The new plinth will have them.

[JDJX]

Unsure. If it's a replacement plinth. It looks exactly like the original. I'm not worried. Just a bit of a curiosity.

I'll be replacing the plinth anyeay. And from what I can tell. The new plinth will have them.

Well, there is your answer. :)

[Hawkeye62]

It'll be great to hear your thoughts on how this vintage design compares with your Rega's on sound quality

[euromut]

It'll be great to hear your thoughts on how this vintage design compares with your Rega's on sound quality

Hopefully I'll be able to give some feedback on this soon. I am waiting for 2mm screws to mount my cartridge. They were absent when I received the turntabl :oops:

[euromut]

Well, I got my DL-110 mounted up and aligned with the Bearwald protractor (Needed a little filing to the head shell). So far I think it sounds great. I need to go through the suspension next.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4354/3738 ... e183_b.jpg

[87_starion]

How does it compare to the RP6? I have a stock RP6 with the Exact and I've been presented with the opportunity to get a TD-160 that has been recently serviced by someone who does it for a living.

P.S. Yours look great!

[euromut]

How does it compare to the RP6? I have a stock RP6 with the Exact and I've been presented with the opportunity to get a TD-160 that has been recently serviced by someone who does it for a living.

P.S. Yours look great!

Thank you. But unfortunatly, due to space constraints. I won’t be able to A/B them for a little bit. The Thorens already sounds great. But it’s going to be hard to do a true heads up unless I swap cartridges too.

The rega has a Low Output Benz Micro Gold with Creek OBH-15 Mk2. The Thorens on the other hand has a Denon DL-110 and is using the built in phono stage in either a Luxmab L210 or a HH Scott LK-72.

That and the RP6 has about every upgrade this side of a new tonearm done to it. So.....


That said. The TD 160 is a fine table. And I think it will do well.

[cement_head]

I am waiting for my newly acquired TD160 to arrive. I am just curious what to expect, and what to check over when it arrives. It appears to be in quite good condition. But my experience is mostly with Modern Regas and older Direct Drive Japanese tables.

Make sure you get an authentic THORENS belt; they will cost about $30 USD, the cheaper versions will not work correctly.

[tlscapital]

Non branded belts are indeed less "good" to do the job and wear out fast. But 'Thakker' belts are the very same as the Thorens but without the Thorens logo and a tad cheaper. More expensive but better belts are the OriginLive ones. They are thought to be longer lasting as well... But that I'm not yet to acknowledge.