DSJR wrote:My experiences with Garrards would tell me to leave the pawls dry on the cam and not put the tiniest drop of oil or grease on them as it seems to cause more issues than it solves...
DSJR wrote:It's my experience that there should only be minimal friction or drag on the copper coloured friction lever on top of the white delrin pawl underneath it. The end of the friction lever which contacts the platter 'key' when tripping the mechanism MUST be easily able to 'slide' or 'pivot' a small amount back and away from it as the tonearm moves towards the side end and before the lead-out groove engages - please look at the link referred to on the other 515 thread earlier for full explanation how this 'velocity' tripping mechanism actually works. Even Klaus, who horrified me recommending some lube on the equivalent 1229 parts, merely suggested a pin-head amount of wacker damping oil on the 'pivot' to minimise any rattle or false engagement at 78rpm-speed cycling as the cycling is very fast and abrupt at this speed.
I've been there and done it so many times I'm afraid, I tend to be set in my ways with these parts. Adding lubricant usually makes things worse, especially at low tracking weights. Forgive me for going on about it... The Delrin pawl has enough low friction and smooth running as it is...
DSJR wrote:Up to you sir The basic velocity trip works the same for all these decks, it's just that Dual and B&O in their cleverly designed and stylish decks, used finer parts than Garrard did and it's my view from experience that adding lube here increases drag unnecessarily. I suspect the 515 wasn't designed for 1g tracking cartridges -
Garrard in their large format models (SL75/95/AP75 onwards) were trying to achieve much with the Plessey penny-pinchers always over their shoulder diluting some of the fine engineering potential in my opinion. They also lubricated the trip pawls on some models with the same disastrous end result. Experiences with the related AP76 and the further tweaked Zero 100 with lighter refined parts here over earlier models, has shown me that any lubrication of these cam mounted parts messes up end of side performance with higher compliance low tracking weight pickups and ideally, I prefer to leave them 'rattly.'
b+v8an wrote:Just want to say thanks for the great pics and procedural.I tore down a similar model last year,and had parts and pieces everywhere!It took quite a while to get it back together(had to find the balls first!)
I really like these tables.One thing I did was cut the button holes out of a piece of felt,and glue it to the back of the faceplate to keep them from wobbling.
jdubbie wrote:With luck this topic will include 28 photos of the teardown and cam service of a modified CS 515. jdubbie 9/2017
FastFolkert wrote:jdubbie wrote:With luck this topic will include 28 photos of the teardown and cam service of a modified CS 515. jdubbie 9/2017
Many thanks, and very helpful since I am working on a 515 that does not play all records to the end.
The method for opening the 515 is similar to the 616Q, which I have worked on. It looks like it might be relevant to the 530 and perhaps a couple other late models as well.
rckeller wrote:Thanks SO much for this post. It was enormously helpful to me in repairing my CS 515. I don't think I would have had the courage to dig into it without this guidance, and I certainly wouldn't have been able to isolate the problem without it. You've done a huge service for owners of this turntable!