Dual Service

spensar · Post by **spensar** » 25 Oct 2017 13:45

Thanks, I will give the foam a try. It is the smaller washers that are completely gone. I soaked the larger ones in alcohol which got them much cleaner but there is still some gunk so I will try the thinner.

dualcan · Post by **dualcan** » 25 Oct 2017 15:53

Yes I know what you mean with these tiny inserts.
Honestly, I don't bother with them. The larger retainer holds enough oil and since it sits high on the shaft, the oil will run down into the reservoir. The light oil is not adhesive....
Cleaning with thinner for these felts is really the only way. The felts come out looking practically new.
Regards,
k

spensar · Post by **spensar** » 26 Oct 2017 05:28

Thanks, great tip. Just to check, in the picture the small black washer in the bottom of the housing is the one you don't replace. The second picture is after it was pulled out.

I also looked at your website pictures of the 1209 overhaul and there is a red washer that mine does not have.

1209 Bearing.jpg: (305.04 KiB) Downloaded 1266 times

1209 motor.jpg: (272.65 KiB) Downloaded 1265 times

kwatch · Post by **kwatch** » 26 Oct 2017 06:36

dualcan wrote:Hi,
Yes, because you need to clean the old dried stuff first. Be extremely miserly with the new lube! -less is much more...
The 721 is a top Dual where tiny tolerances are critical. Mucked-up lubes will not work in the (not too distant) long run.
See my 721 tutorial on my web page (blue ball to the left) under Service tips.
Pay particular attention to the cam lube guide found in the "Servicing Dual TT" thread and in my 721 restoration, particularly from pic 40 onwards.
Keep in mind, many caps should be changed, both for continued safety (Noise suppressor caps) and motor servo board.
You have one of the real gems from Dual, so take careful steps to keep this magnificent machine working!
Regards,
k

When I put it back after lubricating, do I need to put it back in certain way or will it reset by it self?

dualcan · Post by **dualcan** » 26 Oct 2017 18:55

Hi,
Spensar: yup, clean all that old crap out and wash in L.Thinner. Don't forget to flip the bottom copper disc over.
The top red washer was a spacer if the unit is turned up side down- no biggy on these motors.

kwatch:

When I put it back after lubricating, do I need to put it back in certain way or will it reset by it self?

Regarding the 721 cam? Yes you need to place it and the shut-off lever with its parts in proper order, otherwise you will have a mess. Look at the 721 pics (721 HPR 0)43 to 51 very carefully. You do not need to pull the clear cover off the Servo board/motor for this, as I did in pic 721 HPR 002 and 3.
BTW the number sequence of the first 12 pics is out of sync. They should fall in around 721 HPR 097. I'm going to try to rectify this.
Take plenty of pics as you dismount stuff then, as you place the cam and parts back, DO NOT power the unit up, but gently rotate the motor/cam by hand and see if anything binds from the stop lever or whatever. That might prevent a disaster.
Do be careful- it's a top but intricate Dual!
Regards,
k

elbek · Post by **elbek** » 29 Oct 2017 10:19

hi everyone. i just decided to clean up the contacts of main shell but after dispatching it the black cord (ground) has appeared. Can anybody suggest what i have to do with it. Solder it or just remain it untouched. Thanks in advance!

spensar · Post by **spensar** » 30 Oct 2017 16:33

Hi Klaus, I picked up some lacquer thinner and am soaking the 1209 motor felts and parts. Just wondering how long you leave them, and after do you let them just dry out or rinse out the thinner with alcohol or water?

HD had the same can you have in your pics - never got a thrill over a thinner label before :mrgreen:

Thanks.

dualcan · Post by **dualcan** » 30 Oct 2017 20:43

Mind numbing over thinner yes, thrill- not so much anymore...
I tend to leave the felts overnight or shorter, depending on the severity of the crap to be removed.

DSC00312.JPG: (136.51 KiB) Downloaded 1216 times

That's a little 1 ounce or so jam/marmalade jar with a good lid...
I use a flat nosed pair of (clean) pliers, haul the felts out and at the same time give a squeeze to get some of the LT out. Leave the thinner evaporate, best again, overnight and that's it- no further cleaning because the thinner is totally evaporated. Re-assemble and lube. I use 1/16th pop rivets but with a tiny bit of hole enlargement, the 1/8th pop rivets will do as well.
Regards,
k

spensar · Post by **spensar** » 30 Oct 2017 21:44

Perfect, thanks very much, I appreciate the walk through.

spensar · Post by **spensar** » 15 Dec 2017 05:13

Finally back to the 1209 motor. Question on the rotor, is that lubricated or left dry?

I also noted in Dualcan's 1209 pictures it being cleaned up with a soft wire brush. Mine is still shiny, but should that always be done regardless?

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9jd61c3gj6ik ... C00097.JPG

dualcan · Post by **dualcan** » 15 Dec 2017 12:46

Hi,
I just removed the surface rust on the rotor(not the shaft!) with the brass brush. The rotor shaft can be gone over with 1000 grit paper, just to give it a nice shine if the alcohol wipe/wash doesn't do it.
Regards,
k

lreneat · Post by **lreneat** » 16 Dec 2017 04:06

Be real careful using lacquer thinner. Don't breath or allow contact with skin. 91% alcohol cleans everything metal, plastic, etc without being toxic to work with.

ravelax · Post by **ravelax** » 14 Feb 2018 12:42

Hello! Thanks for taking the time to make these service guides. I've used them to clean and lubricate the idler wheel shaft, platter bearing and motor of my Dual 1225. I was curious about one thing, though: the motor service guide says not to disassemble the top motor bearing for cleaning and lubricating, which seems a bit counter-intuitive to me considering the general stress put in most Dual threads on disassembling, cleaning and lubing practically everything else on these machines. So why not the top motor bearing too? The guide says it should be oiled, but I found that difficult to accomplish without disassembling it (which I, following the guide, didn't do).

Hugues TR4 · Post by **Hugues TR4** » 14 Feb 2018 15:30

Our Dual specialist Dualcan, author of the service guide, says it is not necessary to disassemble the top bearing to re-oil it. I usually fill an hypodermic syringe with the suitable grade of oil and this way, it is very easy to reach the top of the bearing and pour a small amount without opening it.
I think this advice applies mostly to the round motors (1019/1219/1229), which are impossible to re-assemble without taking out the whole rubber suspension and its bracket, also kept together by rivets.
I have done it once on a particularly dirty 1219 motor: it is possible but quite a bit of a PITA!
As far as your 1225 (four pole?) motor is concerned, I think there is no problem to disassemble it in order to clean and re-lube since both bearings are reachable when the rivets are taken out.
AFAIK...
Good luck,

Cheers,

Hugh.

ravelax · Post by **ravelax** » 14 Feb 2018 20:18

Thanks for the reply! It does indeed have a four pole motor, and the bearing is easily accessible. I'll give it a go later!

Dual Service

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