1219 removing motor pulley

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joea
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1219 removing motor pulley

Post by joea » 27 Jan 2020 16:21

Trying to remove brass pulley from 1219 motor, for servicing.

Removed the securing set screw and the longer one from the axial location on the pulley, though that is not required at this step, I don't believe.

The pulley did "try" to come off, with a bit of gentle persuasion, but now seem stuck and will not move in either direction.

The first 1219 I did was also reluctant, but with a bit of penetrating fluid, patience, gentle persuasion and perhaps dumb luck, it came off. Required a bit of "dressing" of both the motor shaft and the pulley hole to remove burrs, etc, before it would go back on easily.

This time, I would rather use a more sophisticated method, such as a mini/micro pulley remover, such as RC and model train fans might use. However, all the ones I see on Ebay and Amazon have mixed reviews. That, plus it appears any of them would be problematic given the space involved.

I attempted to use the longer screw to force the pulley off but cannot get enough force generated, given the size of the slot in the screw and the tools available. Pretty sure this approach would work, with a longer screw, with a head on it and some turning device, but m2.6 screws are pretty rare in these parts and online requires purchase in hundreds.

Might there be some known tools that would work to do this? I am about to build my own, but, if the price is right . . .

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Re: 1219 removing motor pulley

Post by DSJR » 27 Jan 2020 16:54

Can you 'sweat' the pulley off with a powerful soldering iron with large tip? I'm sure I've had success with this method in the past...

joea
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Re: 1219 removing motor pulley

Post by joea » 27 Jan 2020 17:18

DSJR wrote:
27 Jan 2020 16:54
Can you 'sweat' the pulley off with a powerful soldering iron with large tip? I'm sure I've had success with this method in the past...
That is a thought. I'd be concerned about motor/bearing damage, but probably not likely.

I have both a rather large (think stained glass makers size) iron and a "jewelers micro" oxy/acetylene torch with some really tiny tips. But I that the latter a bit much in this case.

mrow2
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Re: 1219 removing motor pulley

Post by mrow2 » 27 Jan 2020 21:03

Been discussed in dozens of threads, a little patience, hot (solder iron) then cool. Repeat. Eventually lift off with two screwdrivers or long nose plier under the pulley, also use a drop only of thin lube on the shaft and let it soak up into the pulley. As Dualcan has mentioned even recently, you must protect the screw by using perfectly sized driver so the tiny thing isn't chipped or damaged. The jam-up is caused by time, and tight tolerances combined with microscopic corrosion on the shaft, which will be cleaned once pulley is off. Research threads on topic if you need more help or ideas.

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Re: 1219 removing motor pulley

Post by joea » 27 Jan 2020 21:30

mrow2 wrote:
27 Jan 2020 21:03
Been discussed in dozens of threads, a little patience, hot (solder iron) then cool. Repeat. Eventually lift off with two screwdrivers or long nose plier under the pulley, also use a drop only of thin lube on the shaft and let it soak up into the pulley. As Dualcan has mentioned even recently, you must protect the screw by using perfectly sized driver so the tiny thing isn't chipped or damaged. The jam-up is caused by time, and tight tolerances combined with microscopic corrosion on the shaft, which will be cleaned once pulley is off. Research threads on topic if you need more help or ideas.
I've as little patience as anyone. Often less. Any way, deed is done. The large "tinsmith" soldering iron did the trick as did a small square jawed "needle nose" under the pulley as a lever. I did not wait for it to cool, but simply tested for a bit of yield, gave it bit more heat and pulled it off.

I could see the corrosion, and see some on the motor case as well. It will not give up without a stiff fight either it appears.

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Re: 1219 removing motor pulley

Post by mrow2 » 27 Jan 2020 23:35

Right, goes even easier if cooling is allowed but glad to hear it works. Corrosion on the motor case is mostly a protectant applied at point of manufacture. Follow the motor guide for disassembly, of course. BTW I don't believe a tinsmith solder iron is absolutely requisite, just a nice strong electronics type should work; but it would test your patience a little more :-I . No need to melt the thing! For the cooling part (future efforts) a small wet rag around the pulley immediately following the heat will produce the metals contraction to get it done. Just one of the many basics in servicing one of these.

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Re: 1219 removing motor pulley

Post by joea » 27 Jan 2020 23:51

I am not hesitant to use heat as a tool to free corrosion wedded parts on vehicles, even brake caliper bleeder screws, (with a heat sink for the body), but I use a torch for those.

Probably would not have gone that route here, without the advice of those in the know.

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Re: 1219 removing motor pulley

Post by mrow2 » 28 Jan 2020 00:29

Right! The mind's image is frightening! No torches needed for Duals! Unless in a desperate situation, committing the act could also known as "Turntable Homicide" (tantamount to "Torch-ure") and subsequent punishment would be decided only by Klaus after judgement by V.E. Jury members.

I guess they have these little pencil torches; I don't have one, no idea their application but it might include something like this. Seems risky though. Better off with DSJR's Powerful Soldering Iron (PSI) maybe.

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Re: 1219 removing motor pulley

Post by joea » 29 Jan 2020 14:02

Oh, my sense of desperation is highly variable, but generally does not rise to the level of bonfires or general destruction. The world may rest easy. For now.

For those that might be interested, the "torch" I might have resorted to, less the tanks, resembles this (not endorsing this particular one)

https://www.amazon.com/YaeTek-Jewelry-W ... 091&sr=8-7

This can make a flame that is quite tiny yet also quite hot, suitable for use on tiny items. Some of the tip orifices are jeweled and laser drilled. They say. Takes much skills of course to use it for that purpose.

I inherited the rig, having to renew the rubber bits and replenish the tip supply and have, thus far, not attempted such fine work. Probably never will, but find it a useful tool from time to time.

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