Dual 1219 Skipping

twice the fun
mrow2
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Re: Dual 1219 Skipping

Post by mrow2 » 20 May 2019 07:02

Straighten the wires more and move as much of them to the area of the tonearm shaft as possible. They no longer need to drop right to the deck from the mute switch for instance. Maybe one 8mm piece of tape along the way to help keep the slack up around the base of the tonearm. This is encouraging, but I am wondering that if this is the problem, how did it ever worked well when the TT was new. Maybe the wires were a little more flexible then.

medericus
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Re: Dual 1219 Skipping

Post by medericus » 21 May 2019 21:48

Still having issues. I am considering taking it to a professional to have it serviced. Does anyone know if there is somewhere in or near Western Arkansas that can do such a thing? If not, though I am somewhat reticent to ship it anywhere for fear that it will get knocked out of whack again on the way back, are there any recommendations elsewhere?

Thanks again for all your help.

-Jack

mrow2
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Re: Dual 1219 Skipping

Post by mrow2 » 21 May 2019 23:52

Hate to recommend that, it would be a matter of luck IMO to find the right person. My opinion is to keep studying it, consider removing the tonearm for inspection (remember three areas I can think of are the gimbal race for lateral movement (could be dirty), the Dearing lift mechanism for condition and to ascertain that it doesn't have a clump of dry grease stuck in the cyllinders, and those wires as they enter the arm. You could look around for a Dual servicer or hobbyist who has the knowledge, too. I think I would try an air duster on all of these before any disassembly at this stage. Use plenty of air. Is Klaus around to chime in here? He doesn't like the air at all, so it's my recommendation only.

medericus
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Re: Dual 1219 Skipping

Post by medericus » 22 May 2019 00:19

Yeah, I thing the next logical step is taking the gimbal apart and cleaning, inspecting, and reassembling it to proper spec. This could be fun. So long as I don't lose any tiny parts or springs, it should be fine.

medericus
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Re: Dual 1219 Skipping

Post by medericus » 04 Jun 2019 02:48

Well, sir, that there's your problem.
45627

As I was gently taking the tone arm assembly apart this evening, the whole dearing ring assembly just slid apart. I don't think the shaft was pressed all the way in, which would explain why the tone arm wasn't swinging freely. It was rubbing against the bottom of the outer ring.

So, looks like a relatively straight forward fix. Should I use any sort of epoxy to keep the shaft from backing out again, or should pressing it in be enough if it isn't going to be violently jostled again any time soon?

mrow2
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Re: Dual 1219 Skipping

Post by mrow2 » 04 Jun 2019 06:15

Definitely not just any sort of epoxy; I'd get something really strong such as JB-Weld (Home Depot, probably a lot of other stores), reassemble and set aside to set. You need to be sure about the positioning, and the parts must be cleaned and dried with alcohol. It would set in a couple hours but be fully set the following day. This particular adhesive is 2-part and has thousands upon thousands of (invisible) nano-sized metal bits to strengthen it -- also, it is medium-dark gray after mixing and will blend well. I have used it many times to strengthen re-straightened cantilevers. I mentioned a possibility similar to this earlier, but aside from one with debris in the lower lift-portion, this is the first of your type of failure I've seen. Good work, finding it.

medericus
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Re: Dual 1219 Skipping

Post by medericus » 04 Jun 2019 15:28

Thanks, Don. I am very familiar with JB Weld.
You're quite right about both the prep and cure times. I'm not one to rush things, so I will certainly take my time. Will report back in a couple of days to let the thread know if it was successful.

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Re: Dual 1219 Skipping

Post by medericus » 06 Jun 2019 16:53

So, I took my time and thoroughly cleaned the splines of the shaft and outer ring. Using the tip of an exacto knife to scrape any old debris away, then isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs, I got it as clean as I could. Then I mixed up some JB Weld, applied it with a toothpick to both parts, and began pressing them together. This is the part where I should mention that I should have noticed the hairline crack in the outer ring. I mean, it was there. I glanced at it when it was under magnification. I think even a part of my brain thought, "huh, that's probably why the shaft slipped out so easily".
Obviously, what actually happened was the moment I put any pressure on the pieces, the ring snapped precisely in half. I stared at it for a moment and mumbled something really smart like "Well, @#%$". Then I looked over at the JB Weld that was already mixed up and just sitting there, so...
45653
I applied the epoxy, made sure there was no excess (especially in the top threaded section), clamped it tight, and waited the full 24 hours for it to cure, then reassembled everything, and did a quick test.


Please excuse how incredibly filthy the platter is. It's mostly just oil and grease from removing and replacing it a few dozen times throughout this process. I'm going to have to clean everything up now that I know it works. It started perfectly, played perfectly, and auto-stopped perfectly. And it sounds really, really good.

Now, I DID just order a new gimbal on ebay just in case the epoxy doesn't hold forever, but so far it is working like a charm.

I want to thank everyone again for all of their help. (and thanks again Don for sending the parts and servicing guide so quickly after I bought them)