Page 1 of 1

Removing "blinds" from deck without destroying them.

Posted: 11 Jan 2019 21:24
by analoged
Hello,
I am wondering if anyone has successfully removed the "blinds" like these on this deck.They are glued on.I tried wd40 ,no go.I don't want to destroy the two small ones but I want to paint the deck as there is some rust coming through the paint.I have not been able to locate new small plates (speed control and stop/start).If anyone knows where I can obtain these ,I would like to know.
I am thinking heat gun,not sure how hot.
I don't think I would be able to mask the plates and paint.Rust doesn't show in pics too well.

Re: Removing "blinds" from deck without destroying them.

Posted: 11 Jan 2019 22:10
by dualcan
Hi,
When we replaced these at Dual, we would have to destroy the old ones as they are extremely well glued on. The new ones had a special glue already on the parts. This glue would be activated with acetone if memory serves.
Short shrift, don't even contemplate removing these aluminium fascia plates because they will be destroyed / bent beyond use.
Regards,
k

Re: Removing "blinds" from deck without destroying them.

Posted: 13 Jan 2019 04:54
by raaawkstar
I'm new to turntable restoring and servicing but not new to paint and prep. You should be able to sand the rust away, light prime and sand and repeat, after taping the places with blue painters tape give it a spray of satin black and if you hold the spray bomb 18-20 inches away and do 2 light coats vs one heavy it should look amazing after you get all the parts and dust cover back on, only you and an audiophile would know it. The key is to take your time with the prep work and the masking and tucking the tape along the plate edges as best you and then clean the edges up with an xacto knife. Oh, and clean complete table with alcohol and mask while wearing latex gloves to avoid the transfer of oils. You want a clean painting surface.

Re: Removing "blinds" from deck without destroying them.

Posted: 13 Jan 2019 19:10
by mrow2
And if you are clever with mixing small amounts of "model" paint, you might achieve the exact color match. The trouble with using satin black as a color is that it won't match because the deck isn't really black -- exactly. Model paint would be slightly thinned and applied with small camel hair brush. Mini-air-brush gear could do it even better. Removing the aluminum fascia, as Klaus said, will not be successful. Be aware that to paint the entire deck, with most consumer-available paints we can get our hands on, will result in a finish which will not be nearly as strong as the original factory coat. Touch-up is probably best. Also you probably don't want to be using any type of latex paint on this, and oils are becoming difficult to obtain.

Re: Removing "blinds" from deck without destroying them.

Posted: 15 Jan 2019 13:29
by olddude55
There's a product scale auto modelers use to simulate chrome. It's Bare Metal Foil, and it makes an excellent mask if you choose to mask and paint.
I've used the stuff (used to be an avid modeler) both as trim and as a mask and it's effective. You can get a clean edge that you'd probably never get with masking tape.

Re: Removing "blinds" from deck without destroying them.

Posted: 17 Jan 2019 16:29
by analoged
dualcan wrote:
11 Jan 2019 22:10
Hi,
When we replaced these at Dual, we would have to destroy the old ones as they are extremely well glued on. The new ones had a special glue already on the parts. This glue would be activated with acetone if memory serves.
Short shrift, don't even contemplate removing these aluminium fascia plates because they will be destroyed / bent beyond use.
Regards,
k
Hi,
I am wondering if the acetone attacks the graphics on the blinds.I might try to remove the large (damaged blind) with careful application of acetone,as this needs replacing.

Re: Removing "blinds" from deck without destroying them.

Posted: 17 Jan 2019 16:52
by dualcan
Hi
The anodized finish of all the top fascias and tonearm tube is pretty hard to destroy by alcohol and I'm pretty sure for other solvents as well. It's always a good idea to try in an area where there is no script first, however.
The acetone was not used as a remover of the fascias originally, but as an activator of the glue that was applied to these items, prior to placing on cleaned and stripped chassis-- and I mean stripped, as in brutally ripping off the old fascia.
Regards,
k