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Dual 1209 Power Cord Wiring

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Dual 1209 Power Cord Wiring

Postby barnyardmonkey » 01 Dec 2017 16:44

Hey folks,

Came across another Dual in original box, and has everything with it but the power cord.
I searched quite a bit all last night but couldn't seem to find the correct way to rewire a cord to see if this TT works.

I've mainly been a listener of these, but got in to them a bit more this last year as I've collected a few now.

Anyways, below is some photo's of the power box and how it is ran now.
i have a Molex power plug from a PC if there is a way i can get it to work that route, as i came across some posts on here with using those.
just basic 2 wire AC plug will be used for 110.


Black/Green is on #3
Orange/White is on #4



39815

I also checked my 1226 for it's wiring, though similar it had me a little stumped.
pin #5 is on the left of the photo. (the 1226 is working with cord)
39817


I'm no technician, so any Help with this would be appreciated.


Thanks.
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Re: Dual 1209 Power Cord Wiring

Postby dualcan » 01 Dec 2017 17:33

Hi,
For the 1209 power switch use the following as a guide:
1218 direct wiring.JPG

Dual 1214 power box.jpg
Dual 1214 power box.jpg (98.3 KiB) Viewed 154 times

MOLEX AC  pin- outs.JPG

Regards,
k
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Re: Dual 1209 Power Cord Wiring

Postby barnyardmonkey » 01 Dec 2017 18:12

Thanks for quick reply dualcan.

I believe i came across a couple of your photo's last night, which i thought i had figured out until i seen the 2nd photo that you posted above.

so the blue lines represent direct AC Wire hookup on pins #1 and #2? or is it the 2 red circles on pins #2 and #4 for the direct AC wires?
sorry for confusion.

For some reason i was thinking pin #1 was just the chassis ground.
from what i gathered last night.


Thanks again.
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Re: Dual 1209 Power Cord Wiring

Postby dualcan » 01 Dec 2017 20:59

Hi ,
The pin numbering is very confusing. Pin 1 is indeed and always chassis ground BUT for some reason they stuck the direct ac lug for connection to pin 3 in front of that pin 1 area, that's why I drew the blue lines direct and the ground (red line) away from that AC tab.
Pin 2 and the solder tab in front of that pin are one and the same.
So just for clarity sakes, the two solder tabs are going to pin 3 and pin 2, and pin 1 is the chassis ground pin.
Regards,
k
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Re: Dual 1209 Power Cord Wiring

Postby barnyardmonkey » 02 Dec 2017 06:23

Hi,

After viewing the full size photo that you posted, i could see the 2 small lugs you were talking about finally. and where the blue lines went to them.

So i took another look and checked with a tester for continuity, and pin 1 was indeed the ground.

the lug behind pin #1 actually was tide into pin #4 (orange/white) instead of #3.
and the lug behind pin #2 was linked with pin #2 and #3 both.
So instead of soldering onto the lugs for tonight, i temporarily used a molex connector on pins #2 and #4 for AC direct.(since lug behind #1 was linked to #4)
hopefully that wasn't an issue.

So i was able to hear a faint hum/noise, but the start switch had no effect on the TT working. i popped the spindle off and could see/feel the brass shaft of the motor turning, but no clue what could be wrong now.

I hear just a very, very faint click when moving to start, but nothing else happens.
i can spin the platter by hand and the tonearm will raise and move over.
acts as though the start switch has an issue.


Thanks again for the Help.
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Re: Dual 1209 Power Cord Wiring

Postby dualcan » 02 Dec 2017 15:44

Hi,
You are correct with the lug near pin 1 going to pin 4 instead of pin 3.
Here is a diagram for this switch with motor wired for 120 volts. The noise suppressor is not shown and goes across pins 2 and 3, internally connected across the switch blade, as well. Disregards the strobe and preamp connections which you don't have :
wiring diagram 110 volts with colours .JPG

If we look at the ac wires leading into the box, the two lugs (blue lines from before) are marked as 1, internally shorted in switch box to 4 and 5, lug 2 stays 2 as noted before.
Here is the problem with numbering the power in as pin 1. In the molex plug and the other power switch blocks, one is always referenced as ground which in this box designation sees the ground without a number. This leads to the very dangerous conclusion of putting the live wire on the Molex plug to pin 1 instead of 2.
That is the confusion I was eluding to. Pin 1 designation should always be referenced to ground, never to live wires! That was a grave mistake when they numbered the pins in that switch. My hunch is that pin 1 was ground, but they needed to add the power contact and the area near pin 1 was the only real-estate available.

You also stated:

the lug behind pin #2 was linked with pin #2 and #3 both.
So instead of soldering onto the lugs for tonight, i temporarily used a molex connector on pins #2 and #4 for AC direct.(since lug behind #1 was linked to #4)
hopefully that wasn't an issue.


That was not an issue since the Molex plug needs to be connected to pins 2 and 4 in any case. Your measuring finding Pin 2 and 3 linked is not quite correct as you actually measured across the two motor coils which measure a low resistance but is actually the power load. Seeing that the motor is now turning from here on in we need to concentrate on the mechanical end of the drive. Have a look at the 1209 restoration on my website (blue ball to the left) under Service Tips. Perhaps the pictures will Help sort out the issue.
Regards,
k
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Re: Dual 1209 Power Cord Wiring

Postby barnyardmonkey » 10 Dec 2017 21:05

Just an update, as i spent the week in hospital with my nephews emergency surgery, i finally got back in to this TT this weekend.

Happy to say i was able to actually get it playing, with your Help and also your website photo's. it has a couple issues still, but playable none the less.

I just cleaned out all of the grease, which appeared to be messing with the speed control, though a small piece of the yellow'ish plastic is broke under the switch. (will figure that out later)

The start/stop appears to be working after cleaning as well, though the first attempt the tonearm will come back and shutoff, but works fine the second time.
and the TT won't start by manually moving the tonearm over.

I ordered some fresh grease and oil, will see how it goes after it gets here.
but it is playable, and sounds well.


Thanks again for all of the Help.
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