Source for AR Replacement Motors

american simplicity
danieldust
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Re: the XA single motor wants a little startup help

Post by danieldust » 20 Feb 2008 22:05

sjg wrote:A few other notes on setup to decrease hum --1-have you tried flipping the plug to see if one orientation is quieter than the other?
Good idea, Steph, but it didn't seem to make much difference either way.
sjg wrote:If you have moved the turntable the electromagenetic fields may be different -- espeically if the tt is closer to an amp or tv etc.
The TT is in the same place as before, in a closet and not near TV or anything that would cause interference that I know of.
sjg wrote:would love to see a pix of the finished product!
I posted a final photo in this thread:

https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_f ... c&start=17

Let me know what you think.

gkimeng wrote:But the platter refusing to turn at all is usually a sign that your belt tension is wrong, the platter bearing needs some oil or loosening up or that the unobtainium thrust disc at the bottom of the bearing well has disintegrated or is missing.
I don't think any of these are the case except possibly a new belt is in order. It actually will start on its own now (i just tested it), but about 1/3 of the time, it tries to go the wrong way. If you tried nudging your platter on start-up, you would probably find there would be no need to move your White Album! :wink:

gkimeng
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Re: the XA single motor wants a little startup help

Post by gkimeng » 20 Feb 2008 22:29

danieldust wrote:I don't think any of these are the case except possibly a new belt is in order. It actually will start on its own now (i just tested it), but about 1/3 of the time, it tries to go the wrong way. If you tried nudging your platter on start-up, you would probably find there would be no need to move your White Album! :wink:
Interesting, I thought the backward-rotating platter was only an issue for two-motor tables.

ddarch
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Post by ddarch » 22 Nov 2008 16:04

Time to bump this back to the top.

So, has anyone ordered from Hurst lately? Where? How? What price?

Dave

MuZak

Post by MuZak » 14 Dec 2008 06:13

Here's the url for Hurst direct, as of 12/14/08.
http://www.hurstmfg.com/hurstmfg/qserie ... nous+Motor
Page says you have to log into "your MyHurst account"
then add the P/N to shopping cart.

$54.00

http://www.hurstmfg.com/hurstmfg/images ... _ab_dd.jpg

MuZak

Post by MuZak » 14 Dec 2008 06:35

Ok, I just ordered one from the above.

What the heck.. was meanin to for ages.
Gonna get on with the next project soon anyway,
and motor was a show-stopper.

Was easy as pie to order.
We'll see what happens.....

pivot
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Post by pivot » 14 Dec 2008 14:11

Check the spindle size when you get it.

I ordered a couple from Hurst over a year ago. The motors they shipped were the "new replacement" for the 001 and spindle size was smaller. Took some calling around and shipping back and forth to get the right motors.

MuZak

Post by MuZak » 14 Dec 2008 23:37

pivot wrote:Took some calling around and shipping back and forth to get the right motors.
Oh lord.. not THAT!

Thanks for the info!

Greg

dokblue
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Post by dokblue » 27 Dec 2008 14:34

Try this place they have them in stock and are direct replacement. About $69

http://www.abtechservices.com :)

You will have to e-mail them with which TT you have and a guy named Carlos will probably respond.

valvesonly
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Post by valvesonly » 27 Dec 2008 18:14

Is this the Hurst 3009-001 115V, 60HZ motor? Being trying to locate one so I can risk the Merril mods at vinylnirvana.

MuZak

It has arrived!

Post by MuZak » 07 Jan 2009 00:27

Well, the motor arrived.
7966
Ordered on 12/14/08, arrived on 12/22/08.
Problem free, intact, and the correct item, in every
way.
Even a human-generated email order confirmation,
and a regular mail invoice.
Only hassle is having to sign up for an account with
Hurst before ordering.
It was very smooth and simple... only took a couple
of minutes.
7967
I haven't tried applying power to it yet, but have no reason
to assume that won't be fine too.
7968
The original AR pulley, removed from my original Merrill
(Hurst) motor fit right on, snugly.
I haven't measured the spindle to see if its .125 or
not...
I don't remember if that pulley was ever on the original
AR motor, but I think it was.
7969
Click on any of the pics for a much larger image.

MuZak

And for my next trick.....

Post by MuZak » 07 Jan 2009 01:07

I'm going to pull the table apart completely for a re-do.

Fix little niggling problems, majorly refinish the cosmetics
(due to you guyz outstanding work making me want better)
Build a new base, get a nice custom dustcover from
Dave, and generally put everything right and finetune.
Straightening out the little things that I hurried thru way
back when I first did the mod is also a priority since,
while good enough to get up and running, have made
me very unsatisfied of late.

First off, the POP from the spkrs when switching on is
unacceptable.
Sooo.. I'm wondering what the final verdict on motor
START cap in addition to the run cap.
Ie: what value of cap across the switch?
Where's the best location for it... right on the switch,
or a board (together with the run-cap), or what..
and what type of cap, if that matters.

Next off is the motor-bearing-tightening mod...
Last I heard the C-clamp method had been recommended.
But no word as to how it worked!?
As well as how exactly to do it... ie: how much pressure
with the clamp, etc.

Other motor mods that are worth doing as well.
Whats the final verdict there? what works and what
is a waste of time?
Ie: isolating it mechanically, shielding electrically,
dampening it (and how), perhaps even a motor pod
like Merrill offered (long after my mod was done).
Has anyone tried making one of those?

Perhaps Dave could approach Mssers. Merrill/Scillia
to make one he'd offer?

I'd like to know in advance, because I'd like to do these
things ONCE... while the table is apart.. then just
use it (and admire it, hopefully) for years without
needing to "go inside" again.

What about "aftermarket" pulleys? Whats the up to
date thinking on them?

While we're at it, what about motor boxes?
Same question... what is the current thinking, rather
than from way back in time in the archive.

Relatively inexpensive solutions are preferred.

Your thoughts much appreciated,
Thanks in advance!

Greg

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Re: And for my next trick.....

Post by pivot » 07 Jan 2009 03:16

MuZak wrote:I'm going to pull the table apart completely for a re-do.

What about "aftermarket" pulleys? Whats the up to
date thinking on them?

Don't know about "up to date".

The Merrill/Scillia pulley I added to my AR was a definate upgrade.

Get one from Dave. I was surprised by the improvement.

ddarch
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Post by ddarch » 07 Jan 2009 03:23

Hi,

Still no one out there who has developed a reliable alternative at a decent price. Eric at SOW gets an A for effort, but no solidly reliable motor yet produced.

The Merrill mod as outlined on my DIY page and as featured in another thread here really work:

https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_f ... hp?t=12101

I have been recommending the co-polymer pulley as a stop gap until someone develops a motor that is viable and (somewhat) cheap. For me, the co-polymer pulley not only dissipates motor resonance better than that cheap thin aluminum pulley, but also it stabilizes the speed in a way that makes you perk up the second you play your first lp side.

I know times are tough and the co-polymer pulley is a lot of dough for some people, so others recommend using silicone caulking in the little "basin" at the top of the pulley...never tried it and not sure of it adds appreciable strain to the motor.

Dave

pivot
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Post by pivot » 07 Jan 2009 03:53

I tried the caulk trick with caulk both in the top and bottom cavity of the stock pulley. I don't think the caulked pulley weighs as much as the co-polymer pulley so don't think motor strain is an issue.

Try the caulk - one can always remove it if you think there is a negative effect.

The caulked pulley does about 25% of what the co-polymer pulley does.

MuZak

Post by MuZak » 07 Jan 2009 05:59

Hi Kevin and Dave..
Thanks for the replies.

I likely will get the co-polymer pulley.
I'm convinced it makes a real improvement, given
all the good folks who've said so.
I'd read somewhere that adding mass yields the greatest
improvement.. like the old trick of pouring molten-lead,
or even a machined brass weight in the "basin" area.
Eeek as far as the lead goes, for me... wouldn't wanna
do something like that.
Seems to me the kind of mass of any of those approaches
would likely harm the motor anyway.
I'm dubious of the silicone... that it'd make much of a difference,
at least for someone who's considering a better pulley
eventually.

It IS a "lot of dough", period.
Personally, I'm done with the "audiophile thing" at least
so far as it means that every "audiophile" product is
automatically marked up 5000% just cuz its an
"audiophile product".
However, *IF* something really makes a difference, AND
its on the pricey side but still within the realm of reasonable,
I'll certainly get it when I can afford it.

I'll probably get it at a later time, since there'll be a fair
cash outlay just to get the project done.
Nice thing about an upgrade pulley... you can add it
anytime without ripping into the table again.
I also like to hear what difference an upgrade makes
all by itself.

Definatly an A for effort to Eric at SOW.
I followed his efforts closely, and check his page
about once a year to see what he's offering.

While I really hope not to offend anyone, I frankly find
that his prices are WAY beyond what I'd be willing to spend.
That kind of cash for a couple of outboard boxes is just
not something I can justify.
Particularly when I don't know what the effect would be.
I've no doubt they work as claimed, but neither do I know
for certain what exactly they do... and if whatever that
is, is worth THAT kind of money.
Perhaps if he offered them in kit form at around half
that price, it'd be worth taking the chance.

As for the motor... I'd seriously considered that, despite
its very high cost, given what it is.
I believe that now he's changed it so that it requires an
outboard box as well, making it even more pricey.
I just don't know if whatever improvement justifies that
kind of outlay... assuming you have that much to lay out
at all.

The motor, I'd rather get done during the rebuild instead
of trying to add one later.
So I opted to just get a Hurst and add whatever small
improvements to it that I can.
The Merrill/Hurst has worked well enough for me in the
past that I don't need to spend a half a grand on guesswork.
I hadn't heard about reliability issues.

For the Merrill motor mod, I'd followed that thread, and
just re-skimmed it.

I'm still a bit unclear on how to do it using the C-clamp.
Procedure the same only substituting clamp for hammer?
Ie: dime and socket in the clamp?
I'm understandably nervous about hammering on a
brand new motor.
I'm sure its not worrisome after having done it a few
times.

It also left un-answered the question that was asked
as to a motor-pod/oil-bath.

Is there any way you could approach Merrill/Scillia to
make one available like the other things you offer Dave?
I believe they use one in their new tables.
I mean... why reinvent the wheel?!

I know it was offered by Merrill along with a motor box
with the other mods later on.
I was on his mailing list (snail-mail) for a few years after
doing my mods and saw them offered.
I might even have the flyer laying around somewhere
still.
I just never got around to getting them.
Unfortunately!

Thanks again,
Greg

PS: I will be getting some things from ya Dave, like
bearing oil, a dust cover, and likely new springs down
the line, during the re-assembly phase.

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