AR XA Universal model

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oztayls
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Location: NSW, Australia

AR XA Universal model

Post by oztayls » 18 Jul 2019 08:24

Hi guys, I've just picked up a nice AR XA Universal model, complete with both 50 and 60Hz pulleys. It has the voltage switch on the deck. Inside there are 4 capacitors and the voltage switch mounted on a board.

The only problem seems to be that it doesn't switch off without unplugging it. I initially thought the slide switch mighthave been faulty, but I pulled it apart and it looks good. I cleaned it out with Corrosion X and put it back after confirming that the slide switch works OK.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the Universal model? I'm in Australia and I could just convert it permanently to 240V 50 Hz, but then it wouldn't be a Universal would it?! I'd like to keep it original as it seems these are pretty rare.

Thanks....

oztayls
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Re: AR XAU "Universal" model not turning off

Post by oztayls » 19 Jul 2019 03:52

OK, this is weird. This is what I've done to try to sort out the issue:

*Replaced all 4 caps with new X2 safety caps rated for mains voltages
*Cleaned the slide switch and confirmed it works with an Ohm meter
*Sprayed De-Oxit into the voltage switch

The turntable gets up to speed very quickly when switch is in the "on" position and speed is correct at 33.3rpm. Turning the switch to "off" has no effect on platter speed, it stays on 33.3rpm. However. If I start it with the slide switch in the "off" position, the platter only gets up to 16RPM. Switching to the "on" position, it accelerates to 33.3rpm again.

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Above are the 4 removed caps from the board...
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Above, the voltage switch board beside the Haydon motor

snfrosten
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Re: AR XA Universal model

Post by snfrosten » 19 Jul 2019 15:27

Got to be a bad on/off switch or voltage selector, probably the voltage selector would be my first quess, wire the table without it and see what happens, must be leaking voltage through the switch.

oztayls
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Re: AR XA Universal model

Post by oztayls » 19 Jul 2019 19:38

snfrosten wrote:
19 Jul 2019 15:27
Got to be a bad on/off switch or voltage selector, probably the voltage selector would be my first quess, wire the table without it and see what happens, must be leaking voltage through the switch.
I think you are right, I’ve checked for shorts and bad solder connections, so it really cannot be anything else. I’ll have to see if I can pull the voltage selector apart. If not, this XAU will have to become a plain old XA!

oztayls
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Re: AR XA Universal model

Post by oztayls » 20 Jul 2019 04:23

I pulled the voltage selector and it is indeed faulty with bent pins lying over, so I'm just going to convert it to 240V for now. I'm just going to use one of those plastic terminal blocks to make the connections. I have drawn up a diagram based on pics of standard XA 240V wiring, which is different to 110V wiring. Before going ahead, can any members more qualified than me please confirm that I have the wiring correct for 240V? If not correct what changes need to be made. Many thanks...

Down the track, if I can get hold of a wiring diagram for the XAU, I can make some changes so that it could be run on 110V by moving the position of the mains supply, in similar fashion to a Thorens TD150.
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oztayls
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Re: AR XA Universal model

Post by oztayls » 21 Jul 2019 03:18

The wiring is now sorted, although it is now an XA and no longer an XAU :) The voltage switch was definitely the culprit it seems. I'll keep an eye out for a voltage switch down the track to convert it back to XAU, but really, it's not an issue as the table will remain here in Oz.

I can now crack on with the restoration in the knowledge that it's fully working.

Here's a pic of how I sorted out the wiring:

I could have put the 0.01uF cap (X2) into the terminal block as well, but the tynes were too short on my cap, so I've put it across the switch instead. I replaced the original .39uF black cap with a .33uF (X2). My local e-store didn't have a .39 cap, so I used this 0.33cap that I had in my stash. All this one does, I think, is make sure the motor spins in the right direction and gives it a boost at startup. Anyway, it's starting up nice and fast now and it doesn't go in reverse! Speed is accurate so I won't need to shim the motor.

Both the original headshells are in spanking condition. One is brand new and the other is equipped with a Stanton 681EEE. It had a modified headshell to accommodate the Stanton, which, from the note that was in the box, was given for free due to the owner's choice of the Stanton and it requiring a cutout at the front for the sweeper brush. Unfortunately, the stylus was kaput so I've ordered a Jico ML for it. It should sound nice. In the meantime, I've installed an AT95 with an ATN95P (Paratrace) into the other headshell. This is a superb combination on another table so will be interesting to hear what it sounds like on this one.

One other thing I've ordered is a new 4mm belt. The belt that was on it is 5mm wide and it rubs the flanges on the pulley, which is audible.
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