SL 65B - Connecting the Headshell

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betaj
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SL 65B - Connecting the Headshell

Post by betaj » 27 Aug 2019 10:00

Hi Guys,
I'm new here and brand new to the vintage record players scene.

I've just got my hands on a cabinet-mounted Garrard SL 65B which seems to be in pretty decent shape. However the headshell had been snapped off at the stem. I've managed to glue it back but I'm at a loss as to how I should connect the wires coming out of the tonearm to the springs in the headshell (see photo). Should I solder these in place? or should they have some kind of connector at the end? Or should i slide the carrier right over them to "trap" them in place?
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DSJR
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Re: SL 65B - Connecting the Headshell

Post by DSJR » 27 Aug 2019 14:41

From memory, the terminals should be the other way round, with the solder points at the back of the shell and the wiper part at the 'front' and angled back. Look up C2 carrier pics and these will show the correct points to solder the various colours to.

Just in case, get in touch with Sth St Services in the US as they may just have a replacement. I have seen tonearm assemblies on UK eBay occasionally (SP25 III was the same and the IV should fit as well), but sorry not to be a help otherwise.

betaj
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Re: SL 65B - Connecting the Headshell

Post by betaj » 27 Aug 2019 15:10

DSJR wrote:
27 Aug 2019 14:41
From memory, the terminals should be the other way round, with the solder points at the back of the shell and the wiper part at the 'front' and angled back. Look up C2 carrier pics and these will show the correct points to solder the various colours to.

Just in case, get in touch with Sth St Services in the US as they may just have a replacement. I have seen tonearm assemblies on UK eBay occasionally (SP25 III was the same and the IV should fit as well), but sorry not to be a help otherwise.

Thanks for your suggestions. However I'm a bit more confused now. The photo I uploaded is of the headshell itself with the carrier taken out. The wires connecting the cartridge to the carrier are still there and connected properly.
My question is how (if at all) should the wires coming out of the tone-arm connect to the headhsell pins (which then in turn make contact with the pins on the carrier when it is slid into place).

DSJR
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Re: SL 65B - Connecting the Headshell

Post by DSJR » 27 Aug 2019 19:25

The tonearm wires solder to a little plate on the headshell. This terminal plate is pictured and looks to be the wrong way round by 180 degrees in the shell. The 'finger contacts' should appear to bend away from you as viewred head on from the front and I don't think the wires themselves would cross these fingers/wiper contacts as they seem to do in the picture above.

Maybe I'm mis-reading the picture and the solder pads on the contact wipers are indeed at the rear of the shell. You'll need a fine tipped iron and preferably I think, low melting point solder.

Here's a pic in case you don't have one, of the underside of a C2 carrier so you know which colour wires go where...

https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_f ... mage/39786

betaj
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Re: SL 65B - Connecting the Headshell

Post by betaj » 04 Sep 2019 14:11

Thanks so much for your input - I guess that answers my question.

The plate in the headshell is not the wrong way around - it's just that the wires have come off the contact pins and in the photo they look as if they are contacting the pins that are further away from them.

It's going to be quite a chore to get those super-tiny wires stripped and soldered to the headshell without damaging the headshell itself.

I'll try and cover all the contacts with a bunch of soldering flux and try to keep the iron's temperature as low as possible.

DSJR wrote:
27 Aug 2019 19:25
The tonearm wires solder to a little plate on the headshell. This terminal plate is pictured and looks to be the wrong way round by 180 degrees in the shell. The 'finger contacts' should appear to bend away from you as viewred head on from the front and I don't think the wires themselves would cross these fingers/wiper contacts as they seem to do in the picture above.

Maybe I'm mis-reading the picture and the solder pads on the contact wipers are indeed at the rear of the shell. You'll need a fine tipped iron and preferably I think, low melting point solder.

Here's a pic in case you don't have one, of the underside of a C2 carrier so you know which colour wires go where...

https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_f ... mage/39786

DSJR
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Re: SL 65B - Connecting the Headshell

Post by DSJR » 06 Sep 2019 15:56

Sometimes the insulation peels back when heated thus negating the need to strip the wires back. You never know ;)

betaj
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Re: SL 65B - Connecting the Headshell

Post by betaj » 17 Sep 2019 14:13

Success - I've managed to solder the wires back in place.

I used a bunch of soldering flux and pre-tinned the wires and pins with a soldering iron set to 200 degrees and I managed the whole thing without damaging the headshell.

*whew*

Thanks for your help guys. Now to figure out how I can bend a warped idler wheel back into shape :/

DSJR
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Re: SL 65B - Connecting the Headshell

Post by DSJR » 18 Sep 2019 12:37

The Garrard idlers on these decks were never truly 'true' but as your deck lacks fine speed adjustment, as long as the 'tyre' grips properly and is central on each speed 'step' and not fouling the adjacent steps on the motor pulley, I'd suggest to leave well alone. As long as the tyre is supple still and is spinning freely, should be fine.

betaj
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Re: SL 65B - Connecting the Headshell

Post by betaj » 18 Sep 2019 13:03

DSJR wrote:
18 Sep 2019 12:37
The Garrard idlers on these decks were never truly 'true' but as your deck lacks fine speed adjustment, as long as the 'tyre' grips properly and is central on each speed 'step' and not fouling the adjacent steps on the motor pulley, I'd suggest to leave well alone. As long as the tyre is supple still and is spinning freely, should be fine.
Yeah - that's the problem. The idler has warped into a sort-of upturned umbrella shape. So it's not contacting the correct speed steps and at its top-most position is not making any contact at all. I might try pouring boiling water over it and placing it under a heavy weight - perhaps I'll be lucky enough to warp it back into shape.

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