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Garrard SL95 missing headshell

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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby ivokunc » 09 Dec 2017 05:22

Thanks, BBen! So everything is about the status of the idler.I started to unassemble the cam mechanism.As i post before the friction lever is cracked so i pulled out from the shaft easy and ill try to glue it. The shaft in which the friction lever is attached does not move at all in the cams hole.I tried but i couldn't move it. I can't believe that this shaft initially has been in a free move.Do i need to use a pinch stick to pull it out from the cam??
Thanks!
Ivo.
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby DSJR » 09 Dec 2017 11:52

Uou'll need to gently heat the spindle to melt the solidified grease first. Not too much as BBen says but go carefully...
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby A70BBen » 10 Dec 2017 02:07

Excess heat will melt the Delrin plastic. I'm not sure if the melting point of Delrin is above the boiling point of water but if it is, it might be safer to boil it in water than use a torch or soldering iron.

ADDENDUM: Melting point of Delrin is 175C/374F. You can boil the cam in water to soften the grease but be very careful handling it when hot, usr tongs and pliers. Remove the circlips and the metal trip pawl, first.
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby ivokunc » 10 Dec 2017 02:37

This is misunderstanding probably because of my English - I already removed the Delrin plastic friction lever from the shaft.The lever is cracked so I pull it out easily from the shaft.Actually, the automatic function was working as the friction lever was moving around the shaft and the shaft was unmovable stuck to the cam. So im going to do all the procedures which you guys are recommending.
Thanks a lot!!
Ivo.
Will post the result soon
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby A70BBen » 11 Dec 2017 01:00

Okay, then go for it. But be aware that Delrin is very difficult to glue. Virtually nothing sticks to it.
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby ivokunc » 11 Dec 2017 05:16

Hi guys!! The project is done!The whole mechanism was unassembled and cleaned.All parts are moving free and smooth now.There was a tricky moment with this two washer and bering on the bottom of the main spindle - i needed to start from the beginning- there is no way this washers to be installed after the cam is already in the gear...
Everything is working properly now - the bullshit-additional spring was removed and now the machine is working with the original(even damaged) spring properly.There is no hum no rumble no stutter. Unbelievable this 45-47 years old gear is working smoothly like Swiss clock!!
Thank you VERY, VERY MUCH for all Help and advises, I really appreciated your time!
Ivo.

P.S. If i get another sweet old machine ill post a thread here again
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby A70BBen » 11 Dec 2017 06:23

Glad to hear of your success, and congratulations!

Garrard made good equipment!
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby ivokunc » 11 Dec 2017 16:06

I highly recommended this product: Rubber Cleaner and Restorer. the site is Vintage Electronics.net
This chem fully restored my idler wheel and now the plater is running perfectly. This product is taking off the first thin layer of the old oxidated rubber.

Chears!
Ivo.
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby DSJR » 11 Dec 2017 22:15

Well done. I've started looking for an SL95B or AP96. I mustn't, I REALLY mustn't..............

In the meantime, I've been playing a 1966 Colin Davis-conducted triple LP set of Handel's Messiah on the AP76/AT120E. Incredible how 'quiet' this deck is on background noise, better currently than the 86SB I have, which suffers motor drone in the background. Clear stereo imaging left-right and front-back and musical with it too - I'm very happy with a deck that isn't regarded as proper 'HiFi' these days...
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby ivokunc » 12 Dec 2017 16:09

Hi Dave! Why are you searching for another TT if you have SB86??? They are wonderful machines!
My SL95 has a lot of backgrounds sound. THe Dual 522 which i have is much more quiet than this one, but i love how the view of the English one :):)
What amp are you using currently?
Chears!
Ivo.
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby A70BBen » 12 Dec 2017 18:46

ivokunc wrote:I highly recommended this product: Rubber Cleaner and Restorer. the site is Vintage Electronics.net
This chem fully restored my idler wheel and now the plater is running perfectly. This product is taking off the first thin layer of the old oxidated rubber.

Chears!
Ivo.


URL needs a hyphen:

http://www.vintage-electronics.net

Direct link to the rubber restorer:

http://www.vintage-electronics.net/rubber-drive-cleaner-renewer.aspx

Keep a close eye on it. Some rubber restorers are only solvents and restore traction until they evaporate.

Others have rosin dissolved in solvent. When the solution is wiped off, some of the rosin remains in the pores of the rubber, imparting some added traction. The rosin eventually wears off.

Some are based on methyl salicylate (oil of wintergreen...if it smells kind of like toothpaste, that's it) which degrades the chemical bonds that form when rubber ages, thus softening it (but leave the rubber in the stuff too long and it will swell up); eventually they re-form anyway but this is probably the longest-lasting temporary treatment.
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby ivokunc » 12 Dec 2017 20:20

A70BBen, i think this rubber restorer smells like acetone.When i applied it its look like take some small parts of the rubber, because the cotton ball becomes black again and again... But no dought it is working good(so far)...
Thanks!
Ivo.
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby DSJR » 13 Dec 2017 00:34

ivokunc wrote:Hi Dave! Why are you searching for another TT if you have SB86??? They are wonderful machines!
My SL95 has a lot of backgrounds sound. THe Dual 522 which i have is much more quiet than this one, but i love how the view of the English one :):)
What amp are you using currently?
Chears!
Ivo.


I come from a long involved specialist 'Top End' audio retail background and have returned to basic decks like this from loftier heights and as family life now takes all my disposable income and the expensive Notts. Analogue deck I used to own went long ago... My main deck is a beloved vintage Dual 701 (plus a 601 as backup) which, when the direct drive motor is behaving, is superb. It's old, getting crabby in the electronics and lets me know sometimes, but I love it regardless.

The AP76 was donated to me in totally seized condition and it occasionally comes down into my workroom system! My first AP76 was back in 1972 and this sample was dire. Wobbly platter, sticky trip pawls right from new and tacky finish despite being new and my then stereo wasn't up to much. This current one is a far better made example with little vertical platter movement at the edge, a closer tolerance main bearing and perfectly operating trip assembly. It never fails to amaze me how nice it really is and how quiet it is through the stylus. The 86SB came cheaply in serviced condition but the softer motor suspension grommets have sagged on
this one and motor 'drone' is clearly audible when trying to play records on it. These later motor suspensions starting with the Zero 100, used one traditional Garrard grommet and two softer ones and it's these which sag over forty years. I also have a Zero 100 (idler model) which is delightful now it's also been cleaned and serviced and these had the closer tolerances in the platter bearing and refined auto trip parts.

Back in 1976 or thereabouts, I bought a SL95B 'Module' locally, last of the old stock, and it too was superb I remember. I had something far 'better' by then, but this was a second deck to 'play with.' It sounded very good and again offered the better build of later decks. I liked the way this 95B worked and always liked the tonearm style, which was rather more solid than the flimsy AP76/SL72B tonearm.

Lastly, I have owned a mint condition SL95 for a few weeks, but this one suffered sloppy flipper controls and rather sloppy tonearm bearings which didn't inspire confidence in me. Again, it was bought from the original owner who went the B&O route, serviced as usual, played with for a short while and then sold on for small profit.

I have a small selection of mostly ancient amps from Crown/Amcron, NVA (newish) and a well worked ex-editing suite HH VX300. The Crowns date from the mid 70's and in serviced form, never fail to amaze me how well they compare, equal and often beat well loved modern stuff... The IC-150 phono stage is very good still and changes its 'sound' with the deck and cartridge fed it, so I don't feel it's lacking anything...
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby ivokunc » 13 Dec 2017 14:37

I just observed an interesting thing today - for any reason the tonearm didn't drop exactly on the beginning of the record and what happened is the motor click off for a part of the second and get back on.I tried again to see if this motor cut off will happen again and YES every time when the arm drops down on the record the motor stop for a part of the second??? This shouldn't be like this, i think.
I didn't get this malfunction before because the tonearm drops on the empty wax part of the record and it is impossible to get this interruption of the motor rotations. I may need to put the player between two chairs and lay down to watch what is happened in this moment when the arm is dropping on the record #-o ... Any idea? :roll:
Again: on automatic function, tonearm drops properly down. In the moment when the needle touches the record, the motor cut off for a part of the second and suddenly get back in the normal rotation.
Thanks!
Ivo
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby A70BBen » 14 Dec 2017 17:55

Are you judging this by an audible "sag" in the music's pitch? Or have you verified with a voltmeter that the AC power to the motir is actually interrupted?
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