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Garrard SL95 missing headshell

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Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby ivokunc » 24 Nov 2017 15:00

Hi! I just obtained a Garrard sl95 nonworking of course, so i will have a good nice play-game for the next days or weeks.By-by boredom! :) This old guy is missing the headshell and couldn't find any information what model# I need to look for.Found on ebay one C2 headshell without wires, but I'm #-o not sure if it is going to match this machine.I have another Garrard GT10 but the headshell not fits with this one. Any help, idea for substitute or just answer will be hi appreciated!!
P.S. This turntable is coming with the strangest dust cover i had ever seen!!
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby DSJR » 24 Nov 2017 15:39

The carrier for the 75 I the C1 but for the 95 tonearm, it is indeed the C2. I can't remember which colour wires go where but I'll upload the only pic of a C2 I have to my gallery album in the hope it'll help. A70BBEN will probably know the colour order on the C2 terminals off by heart. I'll need to be using the AP76 shortly and when I do, I'll take a photo of the back of the C2 for reference..

In the meantime, the colours generally go like this, just in case you don't know -

White - L+
Red - R+
Blue - L-
Green R-
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby DSJR » 24 Nov 2017 16:36

C2 wires -

I don't currently have an online free image hosting account, but I've taken a pic of the back of my C2 and uploaded it to my image gallery. This should tell you more than words where the wires go and if you need some, look on eBay for headshell wires and cut the tags off one end of each as I did. With a fine tip soldering iron, they can be soldered, but I'd suggest removing the metal 'wiper terminals' from the C2 first and hold them gently in some grippy tweezers or a small bench vice. These wiper terminals do come out ok (solder end pushed through the aperture and re-fitting should be the reverse of this if the soldering is neat enough.


DO PLEASE NOTE!!!! - ANY Garrard that's been unused in dry storage for even a year (!!!) as my AP76 was, will need some parts checking for seizure. I've just brought my AP76 down - last used in January this year - and the indexing lever has stuck, meaning the tonearm is taken to the very centre of the record before kicking back sharply as the stylus sets down - nasty... ALL the Garrards with this mechanism as yours is will need stripping down, at least in part, all the old gummy grease removing and re-assembled with the absolute minimum of replacement lubricant. On the main cam, the trip pawls MUST be free and dry (no oil at all is my recommendation), the sprung 'latch' must be free but leave any black friction reducing grease in the groove underneath if its there on yours.. Loads of threads here especially on the related Zero 100 which has much the same mechanism with refinements.
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby ivokunc » 24 Nov 2017 20:17

Thanks, DSJR! So C2 is original headshell for this model.Im going to order it right now - this ebay guy ask $14+$4 shipping for this shell!!!It is too hi i think, but...
Anyway, yes the machine is not properly moveable on the manual cycle - on the return action - the arm gets back to home position but never finished the cycle, so i need manually finish the rotation and then the tonearm is saddle down.But i think probably this is тhe bad idle wheel, then bad greасе in the cam.Also, the automatic cycle never starts - the wheel is rotating but the arm is not moving at all. I'll post another information when i did something with this turntable.Thanks again for the answer!!
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby A70BBen » 24 Nov 2017 21:20

C2 is the correct cartridge slide for the Garrard SL95. Color code for the four wires is WHITE Left signal, BLACK Left ground, RED Right signal, GREEN Right ground.

It is probably a good idea if you don't shortcut the servicing. Figure on removing the main cam wheel which entails major teardown. If it doesn't need it already, it will in the future. Besides, you want to service the auto trip levers on the cam wheel because they eventually gum up and cause excessive drag on the tonearm; it is a lot easier with the cam wheel out because getting to the trip levers on the SL95 is otherwise difficult. The SL95B and later models had larger access holes which made the job easier.

Another very common problem on all models on that chassis is a stuck Stop lever under the chassis. Many are frozen tight and need heat to break them loose for removal and
relubrication.
Last edited by A70BBen on 24 Nov 2017 21:35, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby DSJR » 24 Nov 2017 21:26

In the UK, C2's complete go for a lot of money, believe me...

Carefully remove the platter following the instructions and you'll see if the idler has hardened around the edge. There's the start-stop linkage to the rear-right under the platter and this usually seizes - two of my three decks like this needed this part to be 'sweated off' with a hot soldering iron once the fixing clip was removed, all the grease removed and then carefully reassembled as it's a two-piece affair with spring to allow this part to gently 'flick' one way and the other.

Loads more to add and a lot is in the manuals, but it's also all discussed many times here. The motor will need lubrication (take care not to un-stick the rotor parts etc. if the motor is disassembled), the speed change may have stuck (frail plastic parts so take care) and once the cam parts are serviced and re-assembled and the main bearing and idler lubricated, the main sliding plate moved by the cam will need to move smoothly on its large washer as if it sticks a bit as my Zero 100 did, the arm is practically 'thrown' up before moving back to its rest.

P.S. My AP76 sorted itself out after an hour running with the dust cover on to gently warm the air around the deck. Proper servicing really is essential after all this time...
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby ivokunc » 24 Nov 2017 22:12

Thank you, guys! I think i got why the automatic action is not working! There is a spring attached to a "S" plate which actually pushes the long shaft(or wire?) with diameter no bigger then toothpick. This shaft pushes the small plastic piece in the main cam and this plastic one connect the cam to the plater, so the spring probably by the years is not too strong to push the plastic one( i don't know how to call it). I installed an additional spring,(actually two because i don't have one enough long) drill a hole in the only one non-moveable point closer to the "S" plate. Now the automatic function is working properly. I attached a picture
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby ivokunc » 24 Nov 2017 22:17

The new hole is on the right down corner of the picture, this metal plate is not moveable.The original spring is just behind the two new ones, i left the original spring in the original place because it is operating the lift system on the tonearm.
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby ivokunc » 25 Nov 2017 04:55

A70BBen and BSJR , the stop lever is working normally -when stop command is acted the arm is rising and then go back to home, a seconds after that the motor turns off and plater slowly stop.Now with this additional spring, the automatic function is working as it should be, i believe.When the "auto" is started the arm is rising up then move to the outer edge of the vinyl record.This action is valid for all sizes of the records - 33speed 12", 10" and 7" and 45 speed 7". The tonearm lends just on the right point i believe because I still waiting for the headshell.The only problem is when the arm go back home it stutter in the middle of the way for a part of s second.I couldn't get why it happens.I washed the whole chassis with WD40 and then wiped-dried it with cotton balls.A small amount of silicone grease was applied.
Another question is how to make the dropping of the arm slower?I noted three small holes where this spring is attached. Maybe i need to move the end of the spring to another hole? #-o
Thank you, thank you for all help, it is very helpful!!!
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby DSJR » 25 Nov 2017 13:16

I suspect it's dried up grease rather than a weak spring causing some issues...

Just look at all the pics in various places here for which holes to put which springs. Just spraying with WD40 isn't going to be enough and this stuff is so messy. A strip down of much of the linkages around the main bearing casting and main cam is going to be needed.

When the *cleaned* mechanism is cycled, the arm should lift smartly without jerking, but will travel back to the rest and to the start of a record without much smoothness in comparison to some other decks (some auto Japanese decks laboured this function to look impressive). As long as the stylus is clear of the record when moving back and the cueing function works properly on lowering at the end of the cycle, you should be ok.

I've currently got the AP76 in use in my workroom system. I can take a vid of it cycling, but not sure if I can post it here. If allowed here, I could post it to Dropbox for a while and provide a link?
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby ivokunc » 25 Nov 2017 19:54

u can send it to ivokunc@outlook.com im ok with this. My SL95 is coming without bottom cover.Is it normal for this models, because i didn't see any screws holes there??
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby ivokunc » 25 Nov 2017 20:06

DSJR You are right - the Technics tonearm is moving back much more smooth than this one on Garrard and Duall. How do resolve the problem with the idle wheel? Just install a new one or there is another resolution? My is still working but soon it is going to slip over the plater, i think...
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby A70BBen » 26 Nov 2017 05:28

The reason for sluggish operation of the automatic trip, and inconsistent or no auto function in this chassis is usually sticking auto trip levers in the main cam wheel. The levers should be absolutely free of oil or lubricant; as DSJR says, they should rattle freely in the cam gear. Over time, oil/grease residue gathers on the parts, dries up and causes drag on the levers. The spring, if undamaged, is very light but should be sufficient to push the associated levers and the auto trip levers.

Happily, your Stop Lever is okay and not stuck. Garrard greased them at the factory and the grease would dry up over the years. Yours may have been serviced previously and a modern, more stable grease applied.

Speed of cueing drop can be adjusted, but only slightly, by moving that spring you describe. Rarely, changing the damping fluid can improve cueing action but unlike the cueing on many other turntables (Duals after the 1209, many Japanese models, some other Garrards, BIC are examples) the SL95's cueing damping fluid does not leak out!

You might get temporary improvement in idler traction with a rubber treatment based on oil of wintergreen or bu rubbing a solution of rosin in solvent (liquid solder flux, for instance) into the rubber and wiping off the excess so that rosin only remains in the pores of the rubber. But the only permanent solutions are a rebuild, new rubber on the existing idler; or a new old stock idler, though the rubber may have oxidized in certain climates, becoming slippery. Original Garrard idlers would be about 40 years old.
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby ivokunc » 26 Nov 2017 06:50

Hi BBMan! Glad to hear something from you!! Ok i replaced this two spring that i attached previosly and installed a one pretty nice spring as attached the opsite hook to tha plastic wall of the turntable.I left the old original(and obviously damaged spring) because it operating the lift mechanism. Now all functions are working properly. Im still waiting for the headshell, so in the moment when i get it ill post here information how this machine is working and what is the sound of it.I'll upload some pictures - this turntable is looking so good. Im wondering why it is missing the bottom cover? There is no noles for bolts or screws and no clamps.
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Re: Garrard SL95 missing headshell

Postby DSJR » 26 Nov 2017 14:01

My Garrard plinths (WB1/WB2?) have a cheap thin hardboard base which stops fingers and dirt getting in from underneath. The US plinths were different often and I don't know these.
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