Freebie SL65B, Auto Issues, Frozen Tonearm

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DSJR
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Re: Freebie SL65B, Auto Issues, Frozen Tonearm

Post by DSJR » 07 Dec 2018 08:53

Re-grease AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE!!!

This mech will run dry for years, but to be fair, there are one or two high loading points (the curved 'slot' in the main plate and it's 'keeper' together with the lift-lower 'V' stamped in alongside it) that could do with sympathetic lubricant Help.

One thing not discussed is the trip slider. This is held by a screw at one end (make sure the mounting spacer is the correct way round) and the slider runs on the screw head. At the other end, later Autoslims from the late 60's or so, put a Delrin runner onto the deck plate and the stud on the slider was made smaller to run freely in it. This end pushes the pawls on the cam into operation. This slider should 'slide' back and forth freely and again, NO LUBRICATION IS NEEDED here.

richardz
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Re: Freebie SL65B, Auto Issues, Frozen Tonearm

Post by richardz » 08 Dec 2018 21:35

This might sound stupid, but have you got the overload spring in properly? It sounds like the classic symptoms of it not being there or not clipped in. If I haven't worked on one of these for a while I have to check the diagram. It's part number 44935. You may not have to dismantle the deck again.....

Belmont
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Re: Freebie SL65B, Auto Issues, Frozen Tonearm

Post by Belmont » 09 Dec 2018 01:36

I reassembled and dried out all the suspect parts again, et voila, the arm functions almost as it should, save for the start point being a tad too early. The original problem with the trip pawl/cam gear thing is still there, however. The thing that is moved by the tonearm gets stuck right near the end of its movement, and that's what causes the tonearm to get stuck near the end of the record. This cam gear thing is obviously 3 pieces, and I can take the outer metal thing off, but the part that is actually frozen doesn't seem like it comes off the gear in any way shape or form. What's the usual protocol for cleaning and regreasing these?

Also, I managed to detach the ground wire from the thing while in transit. I've reattached it to a transit screw, but there's still a persistent hum. Looking at old pictures, it looks like it was hardwired into the plastic assembly that attaches to the power cable, but there's no way to get it back on there afaik. Any chance of saving that, or is THAT the end of the line for this thing?

Belmont
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Re: Freebie SL65B, Auto Issues, Frozen Tonearm

Post by Belmont » 09 Dec 2018 03:25

I also have to say that this thing sounds VERY nice, in spite of the hum. I mated it with an AT3600/AT91, dialed it in for 3 grams, and the sound is simply brilliant. It certainly looks quite at home with my late ‘60s Kenwood receiver, Akai RTR, and KLH 6’s. Unless something amazing happens to simply fall into my lap, or another friend gives me puppy dog eyes and expresses an interest in vinyl, I reckon I’ll hang onto this thing. The Kenny’s got 2 phono inputs, so I could certainly keep this around on Phono 2 for all the dollar-bin finds, and 45’s/78’s that don’t really warrant the fancy setup.

Sound-wise, bass is seemingly forward-having now owned/heard all 3 of the major drive types (direct, belt, and idler), I’m starting to think there really is something to the notion that each drive type has its own “sound”-direct drives are taught and controlled, belt drives are spacious and seemingly bottomless, and idlers have a certain “slam” to them. It’s probably all placebo or other factors at play, but it certainly seems the case!

richardz
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Re: Freebie SL65B, Auto Issues, Frozen Tonearm

Post by richardz » 09 Dec 2018 08:36

Heat it up to melt the dried lubricant. It may need a lot of heat, I use a hairdryer and gloves as you need to get it that hot. It should then come apart slowly. Then clean every last trace of dried up grease out. Don't re-lubricate the shiny parts at all, just the centre hole of the cam.

DSJR
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Re: Freebie SL65B, Auto Issues, Frozen Tonearm

Post by DSJR » 10 Dec 2018 15:38

The cam gear is one piece, with the trip pawls mounted to it. As said many times before, these things should be used DRY and with the pivot hole also cleaned out, so they in effect rattle when re-assembled. The trip slider which actuates them runs in an inverted screw head in effect at the arm end and more importantly, a delrin lined 'guide' at the cam end. Again, both contact ends of this part should be dry and free of any oil or grease.

Sound-wise, I truly hate to be snobbish here, but an SL65B isn't really going to give much idea of what idler drives give. I've heard good and evil of all drive types in my decades working with them and recommend you take each turntable on its own merits to be honest. The thing to watch with all types is drive noise getting through to the stylus and on to the speakers - not just bearing 'rumble' but motor vibration often heard as a high bass 'hum' in the background which disappears when the stylus is lifted. Forty plus years of use and storage plays havoc with old motor suspensions sadly and some of these weren't too hot even when new... One advantage of a seriously good direct drive type is that record surface noise seems much lower, even before you use an exalted cartridge with seriously posh stylus.

Possibly patronising lecture over. Apologies - I do try to Help and then go off on one....