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help needed for a glued headshell

Posted: 30 May 2018 19:36
by Massimiliano
I'm purchasing this old Lesa MTT, a beauty that is a true rarity in Italy. It seems to be in good shape for his age, BUT some idiot glued the headshell using a red glue, probably epoxy resin. My problem is: how to remove the glue without destroying the shell and/or the tonearm, in order to fix properly this mess?
Thank You all very much!
MTT guaio.jpg
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MTT Torino.jpg
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Re: help needed for a glued headshell

Posted: 30 May 2018 21:16
by Spinner45
Attempting to dislodge the headshell now will likely destroy it.
I'm sure the threads are permanently LOCKED with that epoxy.

Re: help needed for a glued headshell

Posted: 30 May 2018 21:19
by Massimiliano
That's my fear, too.
I'm afraid i must remove the glued parts with a Dremel, then reconstruct the assembly with a standard arm socket and some plastic or aluminium (the shell's back).
I'm hardly enthusiastic about this solution, but dealing with the darn epoxy is a brutal business.

Re: help needed for a glued headshell

Posted: 30 May 2018 22:53
by Alec124c41
That looks like nail polish. Try some nail polish remover, or acetone.

Cheers,
Alec

Re: help needed for a glued headshell

Posted: 30 May 2018 22:58
by Massimiliano
Alec, if you're right... :shock: :oops: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Re: help needed for a glued headshell

Posted: 30 May 2018 23:03
by Gelid
That looks like Loctite 262. Permenant thread sealant.

You may have luck heating the threaded joint, very carefully, with a small butane torch.

** Before you try this, take account of any plastic parts in the vicinity of the joint.
You don't want to melt anything. If the collar, arm, and headshell are all some type of metal, then I'd put some heat to it.

You could also look for a spare tonearm on a European Ebay site.

Re: help needed for a glued headshell

Posted: 30 May 2018 23:12
by Massimiliano
Gelid wrote:That looks like Loctite 262. Permenant thread sealant.

You may have luck heating the threaded joint, very carefully, with a small butane torch.

** Before you try this, take account of any plastic parts in the vicinity of the joint.
You don't want to melt anything. If the collar, arm, and headshell are all some type of metal, then I'd put some heat to it.
Unfortunately, the old threaded socket is made of plastic, and also the back of the headshell. There's a complete lack of spare parts for these old Lesa.

Re: help needed for a glued headshell

Posted: 30 May 2018 23:16
by 62vauxhall
I was going to say Loctite as well and would also try heat as a way to soften it. But not a butane torch or any flame for that matter. It may discolour the metal like what happens to some motorcycle exhaust pipes - they turn blue.

A heat gun would be my choice but as was mentioned, take care around any plastics.

Nice looking table by the way. Would be nice te see one in the flesh one day.

EDIT: You should check Loctite's website or Google search "how to remove Loctite". There must be a solvent that will affect it.

Re: help needed for a glued headshell

Posted: 30 May 2018 23:22
by Massimiliano
62vauxhall wrote:I was going to say Loctite as well and would also try heat as a way to soften it. But not a butane torch or any flame for that matter. It may discolour the metal like what happens to some motorcycle exhaust pipes - they turn blue.

A heat gun would be my choice but as was mentioned, take care around any plastics.

Nice looking table by the way. Would be nice te see one in the flesh one day.

EDIT: You should check Loctite's website or Google search "how to remove Loctite". There must be a solvent that will affect it.
Thank you very much.

Re: help needed for a glued headshell

Posted: 30 May 2018 23:49
by Massimiliano
To sum up: red Loctite is permanent stuff, and removing it without the application of substantial heat may be nearly impossible.

Re: help needed for a glued headshell

Posted: 31 May 2018 00:38
by euclid
On this side of the pond there is (maybe was) a red insulating varnish that was sold by GC (General Cement) that was often called Glyptal. The original solvents may have been xylene and similar products. It was also commonly used to "seal" the shaft of pots, the screws on IF Transformers, and other adjustments. In this use it acted a a mild glue and also gave an indication that the adjustment had been changed.

I was always able to "break the shaft free" with a little work. It may also soften or dissolve if acetone or a hydrocarbon solvent is applied. These solvents are often liver toxins and flamable. Be careful and minimize your exposure to them. Working outdoors on a nice day is a good idea.

Re: help needed for a glued headshell

Posted: 31 May 2018 01:08
by Sunwire
I would try acetone (nail polish remover) first.
Then 90% isopropyl alcohol.

Acetone toxicity
From wikipedia:
"Acetone has been studied extensively and is generally recognized to have low acute and chronic toxicity if ingested and/or inhaled.[42] Acetone is not currently regarded as a carcinogen, a mutagenic chemical nor a concern for chronic neurotoxicity effects.[41]

Acetone can be found as an ingredient in a variety of consumer products ranging from cosmetics to processed and unprocessed foods. Acetone has been rated as a generally recognized as safe (GRAS) substance when present in beverages, baked foods, desserts, and preserves at concentrations ranging from 5 to 8 mg/L.[42]"

Re: help needed for a glued headshell

Posted: 31 May 2018 01:33
by Massimiliano
Thank you, euclid and Sunwire. I will try everything, outdoors.

Re: help needed for a glued headshell

Posted: 31 May 2018 02:09
by Copperhead
Massimiliano wrote:Thank you, euclid and Sunwire. I will try everything, outdoors.
Take a bit of the red stuff off the tube, then you can experiment on it away from the arm. A sharp knife should do.

If you are lucky it might be nail varnish and acetone will dissolve it. It does look like Loctite red lock, though, then you are unlucky.

Re: help needed for a glued headshell

Posted: 31 May 2018 04:19
by AsOriginallyRecorded
Although I would be very leery about using heat of any sort because of the internal wiring, I might consider super cooling with either canned air or even liquid nitrogen to possibly force shrinkage and contraction of the sealing contact surface. Not sure if it would work, but preferable to the application of heat sufficient to do anything. My first choice would follow Alec's advice to be truthful. I can't really imagine anyone using Loctite in such a manner, so hopefully, that is not the case here. Such a nice looking turntable, but such an amateurish application of the sealant doesn't quite add up somehow. Let's hope this is an easy solution case. Cheers and good luck! [-X