What to expect when your expecting a TD160

music box
RichieCactus
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Re: What to expect when your expecting a TD160

Post by RichieCactus » 24 May 2018 05:56

Interesting idea !

Good luck and keep us posted

rgds
rc

euromut
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Re: What to expect when your expecting a TD160

Post by euromut » 04 Jun 2018 01:39

Arm arrived yesterday. I only had a short time to play before having to leave on a work trip. So far I converted it from direct wire, to a Cardas 5 pin din. When I get home I will modify the deck to accept it. So far I am very pleased.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1742/2867 ... e8a2_h.jpg

I’ll be doing a little re polishing. But what a piece of art.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1755/4073 ... 7c5e_b.jpg
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1731/4073 ... 0c10_b.jpg
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1754/4073 ... 95c3_b.jpg
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1756/4182 ... 6d36_h.jpg

RichieCactus
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Re: What to expect when your expecting a TD160

Post by RichieCactus » 04 Jun 2018 06:06

If I was one of those marketing guys I'd write something like - 'the perfect marriage of art and design' ! :wink: :D

euromut
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Re: What to expect when your expecting a TD160

Post by euromut » 11 Jun 2018 14:21

Ok, I finally had some time after traveling from work.

I made up a cable for going from the Tonearm Din, to the RCA jacks. Its Cardas 4x33 shield. The ground wire going from the center pin, is stripped back and wraps around the Ground braid on the cable before continuing on. The ground is soldered to the braid. Where the left and right channels are separate, I slid braid back over the individual pairs. The braids are all soldered together at the intersection to create a continuous shield. The ends of the wires were trimmed back before being soldered to the RCA terminals.

Hell, I figured if I'm not going to have a continuous run to the phono stage. I at least wont slack on the cable. lol

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1725/4267 ... 4a19_b.jpg

I also quickly fitted a new drive pulley from http://www.audiosilente.com. It is a perfect replica of an original 2 part spring clutch pulley. Keeps good time at 33.34.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1742/4092 ... 48c5_b.jpg
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1741/2886 ... 4142_b.jpg

euromut
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Re: What to expect when your expecting a TD160

Post by euromut » 12 Jun 2018 16:17

Lets let the ridiculousness continue. I fitted and tuned my Audiomods arm.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1725/2788 ... c758_h.jpg

I am still tinkering with the anti-skate. It was not tracking well near the inner grooves. Sometimes even jumping back a groove. I moved to the center quadrant hole, and adjusted the quadrant angle. It seems to have stopped that. But I am still fine tuning the bias.

The whole setup sounds really good though, I cant wait for the Nagaoka MP-200 to be broken in.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1745/4091 ... 168b_h.jpg
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1724/4091 ... 608b_h.jpg

zharca
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Re: What to expect when your expecting a TD160

Post by zharca » 13 Jun 2018 07:00

So far I converted it from direct wire, to a Cardas 5 pin din.
It was not tracking well near the inner grooves. Sometimes even jumping back a groove.
See the connection there?

The wiring loom must be built from the bottom up and then installed complete. The position of the wires inside is critical to within 1-2mm to get the dressing inside the bearing shaft correct, where the wire runs inside a 1mm tube. Mess with it at the base and you will get those kind of problems.

euromut
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Re: What to expect when your expecting a TD160

Post by euromut » 13 Jun 2018 08:06

zharca wrote:
See the connection there?

The wiring loom must be built from the bottom up and then installed complete. The position of the wires inside is critical to within 1-2mm to get the dressing inside the bearing shaft correct, where the wire runs inside a 1mm tube. Mess with it at the base and you will get those kind of problems.
Thank you for the tip. I will re check my work. If need be I’ll re thread the wire through the arm.

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Re: What to expect when your expecting a TD160

Post by zharca » 13 Jun 2018 10:39

There is a diagram showing the position of the wiring in the base on page 7 of the kit manual, here:
http://www.audiomods.co.uk/armbuild.pdf

You also need to make sure that it's not twisted in the base and that there is about 5mm slack in the ground wire inside the back of the arm tube.

When installing the grommet at the headshell end, the wires should be pulled tight and then released about 7-10mm so that they don't pull at the bearing end. They should be protected with the 1mm heatshrink where they pass through the grommet and also where they pass the bracing discs inside the arm tube. This is important to avoid damage in the long term.

BUT, do note that this is for the kit version of the arm which is intended for diy assembly, on the Series Five arms the bearings in the arm yoke are torque loaded using a micro torque driver in a little jig, not really a diy job, and you will lose the setting if you remove the arm yoke cap. You can try the technique shown on page 8 of the kit manual as a work around, though it won't be exact.

RichieCactus
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Re: What to expect when your expecting a TD160

Post by RichieCactus » 13 Jun 2018 10:49

... and probably also worth pinging off an email to Jeff ?

euromut
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Re: What to expect when your expecting a TD160

Post by euromut » 13 Jun 2018 12:56

RichieCactus wrote:... and probably also worth pinging off an email to Jeff ?
I believe Zharca is Jeff. Or I could be wrong, and its just Bruce Wayne.

How is the ground wire terminated in the stub end of the arm? Is it just pinched in the thread of the end stub? That was the only wire I had difficulty with, so it may be by issue.

RichieCactus
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Re: What to expect when your expecting a TD160

Post by RichieCactus » 13 Jun 2018 13:38

Yes you're correct - silly me ! (d'oh)

zharca
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Re: What to expect when your expecting a TD160

Post by zharca » 13 Jun 2018 19:12

Yes, the ground wire is squeezed under the counterweight stub, it needs the end to be tinned with solder to make contact. Just make sure that there are a few millimetres slack so that it's not tight up the bearing shaft.

Unlike in the Rega arms, the wires in the base should have no excess or bunching, though they should be relaxed enough so that they can twist as the arm rotates without touching anything or tightening up. You get this by allowing the wires to drop down about 2mm from the "pulled up the shaft" position.

Test by setting a zero tracking weight and see if the arm swings freely and stops in various positions. A very light swing back outward at the inmost position is OK because there might be a tiny effect as the wires twist. This is OK as it is in the same sense as the antiskate. It also shows that the bearings are free! If there's any different behavior then they are too tight/slack or twisted in the base.

If you can measure it, the arm should swing at <20mg horizontal and <30mg vertical. The extra vertical is to add a tiny bit of damping as the arm rises on warps and helps settle the cartridge as the needle drops at the start. If you can't measure it "nice and free" in both directions is near enough!

euromut
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Re: What to expect when your expecting a TD160

Post by euromut » 13 Jun 2018 19:52

zharca wrote:Yes, the ground wire is squeezed under the counterweight stub, it needs the end to be tinned with solder to make contact. Just make sure that there are a few millimetres slack so that it's not tight up the bearing shaft.

Unlike in the Rega arms, the wires in the base should have no excess or bunching, though they should be relaxed enough so that they can twist as the arm rotates without touching anything or tightening up. You get this by allowing the wires to drop down about 2mm from the "pulled up the shaft" position.

Test by setting a zero tracking weight and see if the arm swings freely and stops in various positions. A very light swing back outward at the inmost position is OK because there might be a tiny effect as the wires twist. This is OK as it is in the same sense as the antiskate. It also shows that the bearings are free! If there's any different behavior then they are too tight/slack or twisted in the base.

If you can measure it, the arm should swing at <20mg horizontal and <30mg vertical. The extra vertical is to add a tiny bit of damping as the arm rises on warps and helps settle the cartridge as the needle drops at the start. If you can't measure it "nice and free" in both directions is near enough!
Thank you Jeff. I think if the wire is the issue, It is minimal. But I will be checking for sure. The arm currently moves back out about an 1/2 inch when you swing it towards the center of the platter. This is with the arm floating, and the anti-skate weight removed.

I am currently tracking at 1.9g. I have the anti-skate quadrant in the hole closer to the center of the arm, and set neutral. I have 2 lead discs on the anti-skate. It seems to be tracking pretty well with this setup.

euromut
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Re: What to expect when your expecting a TD160

Post by euromut » 19 Jun 2018 03:43

I pulled in a new ground wire and adjusted the harness. I am now able to set my bias normally and it’s tracking well as 1.75g.

Thank Jeff. Your reputation is well earned.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1725/2788 ... c758_h.jpg

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Re: What to expect when your expecting a TD160

Post by user510 » 02 Jul 2018 21:54

Great project euromut!

-Steve