Official Technics SL-M1, SL-M2, SL-M3 Thread

turning japanese
SA-708
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Re: Official Technics SL-M1, SL-M2, SL-M3 Thread

Post by SA-708 » 23 Mar 2017 22:11

Hey y'all. I recognize many of y'all from other audio forums.

I have both an SL-M3 and an SL-MA1, and a collection of over 50 p-mount cartridges.

I bought the SL-M3 from The Turntable Factory (a repair shop that specialized in Technics turntables) around 8 years ago, and it has been my daily driver in my home stereo system ever since. I am currently using a LOMC cartridge on it, a Sony ND-MC3X stylus with Sony SH-4P headshell. I also have a JA Michell Record Clamp that I use on it.

The SL-MA1 (the US non-headshell version) was a more recent purchase; a few years back I put a minimum bid on one on eBay and was surprised a few days later when I won. It lives in my office at work, and is currently wearing an ADC PSX-40 cartridge and Nagaoka TS-623 Disc Stabilizer.

I think I scanned the literature for both cartridges mentioned above, and uploaded them to the library here, as well as the leaflet for my HOMC Dynavector DV-10P, a favorite of mine that seems to be quite rare.

ren2112
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Re: Official Technics SL-M1, SL-M2, SL-M3 Thread

Post by ren2112 » 24 Mar 2017 12:47

Morning all. At least its morning here in the megalopolis we call the GTA(toronto). I would like to know what platter mat you have experience using? The thickness that works best, where you bought it and the material you have gotten the best results with. My SL M2 has the factory rubber one and I was wondering if I should add a 2-3 cm mat to that.

Thanks and
Happy Friday

SA-708
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Re: Official Technics SL-M1, SL-M2, SL-M3 Thread

Post by SA-708 » 24 Mar 2017 16:00

I use the stock Technics mats on my M3 and MA1. Adding another mat, or using a mat of different thickness, would throw off the vertical tracking angle. There's no way to adjust VTA with the p-mount arms, but if the cartridge matches up with T4P specs the VTA should be fine. Also, a mat for the MA1 would need holes, so I just leave well enough alone.

ren2112
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Re: Official Technics SL-M1, SL-M2, SL-M3 Thread

Post by ren2112 » 24 Mar 2017 16:06

Thanks. Great points you brought up. Thanks again

ren2112
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Re: Official Technics SL-M1, SL-M2, SL-M3 Thread

Post by ren2112 » 12 May 2017 14:02

Bump. Happy Friday =D> =D> =D> =D> :lol: :lol: :lol:

goatthroat
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Re: Official Technics SL-M1, SL-M2, SL-M3 Thread

Post by goatthroat » 19 Aug 2017 15:14

Anyone knows where i can pick up a rubber mat for my fleamarket find Technics SL-MA1 which i picked up for 30 bucks, also though it functions the infra red post doesn`t seem to be lit so will this be an issue during playback ?

ren2112
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Re: Official Technics SL-M1, SL-M2, SL-M3 Thread

Post by ren2112 » 19 Aug 2017 16:34

Wow, great find. I remember reading the Sl 1200 series mat fits, you may want to check those out. Not sure about the infra red though sorry.

goatthroat
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Re: Official Technics SL-M1, SL-M2, SL-M3 Thread

Post by goatthroat » 19 Aug 2017 17:17

Thanks for the advice, but i think the SL-MA1 mat has holes in it so might not work

ren2112
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Re: Official Technics SL-M1, SL-M2, SL-M3 Thread

Post by ren2112 » 19 Aug 2017 20:32

oh right yours has the sensors? My Sl-M2 doesn't. Happy hunting

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Re: Official Technics SL-M1, SL-M2, SL-M3 Thread

Post by ren2112 » 09 Oct 2017 14:14

GM
My Technics SL-M2 has stopped going through its end of record cycle(run-out groove)
tonearm no longer lifts up and platter doesn't stop, tonearm just sits in run-out groove of album.

Any experience with cause and how to fix?

Thanks

johnny q
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Re: Official Technics SL-M1, SL-M2, SL-M3 Thread

Post by johnny q » 15 Nov 2017 16:13

Oak244 wrote:
johnny q wrote:
Oak244 wrote:I have a SL-M2 I bought years ago, but just recently got a new Cartridge and fired up the table for the first time. I bought the AT92 Type Pmount Cartridge w/JICO Brand Shibata Needle from Turntable Needles and it sounds great! My problem is the Cueing does not work, nor does it auto return. The manual states if I remove the Rubber stopper and move the arm inward I should see a screw and adjust it. However I have spent a few hours looking for the screw and can't find it. I have attached pics of the bottom in hopes people can tell me if its been gutted or I need to look elsewhere.

http://s61.photobucket.com/user/Toreaso ... n.jpg.html

http://s61.photobucket.com/user/Toreaso ... sort=3&o=0
I have been on the fence about that one and I probably should have purchased it because they recently raised the price like, $60. Anyway - I am always leary about aftermarket Pmount styli not conforming to T4P specs. Would you happen to know if the Shibata is the appropriate length and all that? I assume it is because you say the sound is good.
Yeah I would say it fits fine. Everything sounds Great. Here are some pics for you.. This is My SL-M2 with AT92 Type Pmount Cartridge w/JICO Brand Shibata Needle.
Question for you: What gain settings are you using for this stylus/cart combo? I bought mine from LP Gear and they tell me the output is 3mv. However, that is the AT VS body which LP Gear acquired from Audio Technica. I would imagine yours is similar output - however, I cannot find any AT cart that has output lower than 3.5mv, including legacy models. I emailed LP Gear asking about the accuracy of that 3mv measurement and they were not of much help. I am using 46db gain.

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Re: Official Technics SL-M1, SL-M2, SL-M3 Thread

Post by RobotB9 » 26 Nov 2017 06:13

Okay, I have a really big question for which I can't seem to find the answer, so, time to post. I bought an SL-M2 that someone drilled out the top bearing of the tonearm. You know how it's a four point gimbal? apparently someone (no, not me) couldn't remove the top bearing screw, so they just drilled it out. I got another bearing point screw from another Technics tonearm that would have fit except the threads don't "bite." It just spins as you try to tighten it because, well, it's been drilled out. #-o Anyhow, I'd like to find a replacement tonearm, but they just don't seem to exist.

My second thought is to find the gimbal "frame" for lack of a better word - the part that holds the tonearm and inner swivel. Most Technics including the SL-1200 and variants, use a "C"-shaped frame where the top and bottom bearings are held at the ends of the "C" if that makes sense. The SL-M2 uses a frame that wraps around the whole upper part of the tonearm gimbal. Any ideas on where I can find this gimbal "frame?" I thought about getting, say a used SL-1200 tonearm and removing the "C" frame and seeing if I can incorporate that into the tonearm base so I can still use the SL-M2 tonearm and cueing. I know it would leave a hole on one side of the tonearm mount, but that doesn't worry me. What worries me is whether the height inside those "C"-shaped frames is the same as the SL-M2 frame. I also thought about using a cheaper p-mount tonearm from a cheaper Technics, but again, not sure of what would work. If none of the above will work, what do people do to replace the tonearm?

Thanks for any and all replies.

BourbonCowboy
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Re: Official Technics SL-M1, SL-M2, SL-M3 Thread

Post by BourbonCowboy » 30 Nov 2017 06:24

I doubt you will be able to find a tonearm or gimbal. Most likely, you will need to source a parts table. I did that with my MA1. The problem is that parts tables aren't cheap - or easily found. I searched for months before I found one, and I suspect that your search might be longer. Good luck!

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Re: Official Technics SL-M1, SL-M2, SL-M3 Thread

Post by tom6to1 » 01 Dec 2017 00:02

RobotB9 wrote:Okay, I have a really big question for which I can't seem to find the answer, so, time to post. I bought an SL-M2 that someone drilled out the top bearing of the tonearm. You know how it's a four point gimbal? apparently someone (no, not me) couldn't remove the top bearing screw, so they just drilled it out. I got another bearing point screw from another Technics tonearm that would have fit except the threads don't "bite." It just spins as you try to tighten it because, well, it's been drilled out. #-o Anyhow, I'd like to find a replacement tonearm, but they just don't seem to exist.

My second thought is to find the gimbal "frame" for lack of a better word - the part that holds the tonearm and inner swivel. Most Technics including the SL-1200 and variants, use a "C"-shaped frame where the top and bottom bearings are held at the ends of the "C" if that makes sense. The SL-M2 uses a frame that wraps around the whole upper part of the tonearm gimbal. Any ideas on where I can find this gimbal "frame?" I thought about getting, say a used SL-1200 tonearm and removing the "C" frame and seeing if I can incorporate that into the tonearm base so I can still use the SL-M2 tonearm and cueing. I know it would leave a hole on one side of the tonearm mount, but that doesn't worry me. What worries me is whether the height inside those "C"-shaped frames is the same as the SL-M2 frame. I also thought about using a cheaper p-mount tonearm from a cheaper Technics, but again, not sure of what would work. If none of the above will work, what do people do to replace the tonearm?

Thanks for any and all replies.
I don't have this turntable, but I think there is another path you could take. Could you not find a slightly larger screw and create a thread in the larger hole with a tap and die set into which it would fit? That would be easier (well maybe easier) than searching for a donor turntable and likely cheaper. I am not sure this would work, but it is unlikely to make the problem any worse.

RobotB9
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Re: Official Technics SL-M1, SL-M2, SL-M3 Thread

Post by RobotB9 » 09 Dec 2017 04:51

tom6to1 wrote:
I don't have this turntable, but I think there is another path you could take. Could you not find a slightly larger screw and create a thread in the larger hole with a tap and die set into which it would fit? That would be easier (well maybe easier) than searching for a donor turntable and likely cheaper. I am not sure this would work, but it is unlikely to make the problem any worse.
Well, the screw is actually part of the bearing. It has a point on the end that becomes the bearing point so I have to use this screw, though I suppose I might find another manufacturer that makes a similar but larger bearing screw if I search long enough. I thought about filling in the drilled out screw hole with epoxy and doing what you suggest, but I'm not sure how strong a "bite" the epoxy would offer, and I'm not sure I would get it centered exactly. I think it may just strip out as I tap it.

I'm actually going to try an experiment. I bought the C-shaped gimball support part of an SL-1200 tonearm, and I'm going to see if I can fit that into the tonearm. It will of course leave a gap on one side of the tonearm gimball mount since it doesn't wrap all the way across the tonearm gimball. If it works, it may be a workaround for others with bad tonearms that will leave the cueing, damped counter weight and P-mount intact, though I could never tighten it to Technics 7 mg friction tolerance. Actually, if that part fits, it would mean you could use an SL-1200 arm, though there would be no way (other than spacers under the headshell) that you could adjust VTA. I was hoping someone had gone one of these routes and had some advice. If all else fails, I might try buying a complete SL-1200 tonearm with base as the base is adjustable for VTA. Last resort is to remove it and mount a new tonearm board for other tonearms, but in these last two cases, I lose the P-mount (not a big deal), the front panel cueing and the damped counter weight. I was just hoping for a cheaper fix.

Thanks for the suggestions, though, guys!

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