Technics Direct Drive SL 1100 - 1800 models

turning japanese
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Re: Technics Direct Drive SL 1100 - 1800 models

Post by Guest » 06 Apr 2014 04:41

KentT wrote:1300 and 1400 models I don't recommend. Especially Mk II models. Cueing and automation have been known issues. No parts to fix them. SL-1600 Mk II best automatic of the lot performance and reliability wise. Equal to the original SL-1200 in performance and build but not the Mk II upwards.

Please elaborate if you have time, first generation servo control SL-1300 specifically.

When I cleaned and lubricated the cue on mine (my Son's) it appeared pretty straight forward and adequately made to me. Please point out the weak link(s) specific (and specifically) to the SL-1300 so that I may examine mine and beef up those spots. Just had to do a little preemptive epoxy fillet type work on the new to me PS-X60; plastic bits starting to show signs of cracking from out-gassing. I have had good results when I have caught this sort of thing BEFORE it breaks and strengthened things up.
Hell of a lot better than trying to repair broken bits after the fact and/or scrounging for donor parts! Especially the nylon-like material parts that JVC seemed to love (NO adhesive will stock to that material, NONE!)

I have repaired completely broken/non-functioning cues on 2 other Technics tables. One was on the too much stinking plastic SL-1900. All 3 machines have had slightly different cue mechanisms in both parts materials and design. Similar but different. I have seen a tutorial on-line provided by some shop that repairs them. Can't remember the details but that machine/arm was different still.

I am starting to think the cue issue is being too broadly applied (by some people, not talking folks here) to some machines that don't suffer it? I see and read it too often and in very general terms. That is why I'd appreciate it if you (or someone) could help steer me to the weak areas on my machine.

Thank you!

ejd715
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Re: Technics Direct Drive SL 1100 - 1800 models

Post by ejd715 » 24 May 2014 00:49

I bought a SL-1500 MKI as my first turntable for $200. I always had problems with the servo-never kept proper pitch. Even had the pitch adjusters cleaned but still didnt hold pitch worth a s**t.

Japi Roelofs
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Re: Technics Direct Drive SL 1100 - 1800 models

Post by Japi Roelofs » 24 May 2014 14:07

ejd715 wrote:I bought a SL-1500 MKI as my first turntable for $200. I always had problems with the servo-never kept proper pitch. Even had the pitch adjusters cleaned but still didnt hold pitch worth a s**t.
Same here. Usually, cleaning the pots solves the problem, but not on the 1500. I don't know why... I have read some other stories about the 1500 being a bit harder to control in the speed department.

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Re: Technics Direct Drive SL 1100 - 1800 models

Post by anmpr1 » 30 Aug 2014 13:35

My SL-1100a was not holding pitch. I sprayed the pots with cleaner, with no results. I decided to take it to a local repair shop, and had it in my trunk in the hot sun. When I arrived, and took it out, it was probably 120 degrees or so. We plugged it in an it ran perfect-speed spot on. Maybe the heat loosened up some grunge, who knows. Weird. But now this 1973 deck runs fine, as new.

KentT
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Re: Technics Direct Drive SL 1100 - 1800 models

Post by KentT » 30 Aug 2014 16:08

Updates, the SL-1300 MK II is the troublesome model. There was a part in the cueing/automatic mechanism which was prone to failure even in warranty. The SL-1400 Mk II also had this same item fail. The revised part Panasonic issued had even worse failures. The late Joel Thorner did come up with a repair for these which has worked well as has several other people. Once fixed, they have usually been fine. The SL-1300 original model has been good. I now own one. Mine does need some automatic mechanism cleaning, lubrication, and making sure the automatic indexing and cueing is in good order. I am going to service this on mine next week. SL-1400 Mk II has the same control IC as the SP-15 and similar issues service wise. I like my SL-1300 manually and will like it even better repaired fully.

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Re: Technics Direct Drive SL 1100 - 1800 models

Post by Guest » 30 Aug 2014 20:49

My ONLY complaint with the original SL-1300 (I have had several and seen many) is that I have yet to find one where the head shell's azimuth wasn't just a wee bit off; usually a bit "high" on the inboard side closest to the platter.

Every damn one of them to some degree.

It's a problem for me, as I also enjoy whenever possible staying with the old single point head shells as supplied.

I know this can be addressed several ways, but none of them are very attractive, to me anyway.

I've seen some of these arms so bad you could see it in the ePay and "craigslist" "for sale" photos but those arms most definitely had some abuse issues.

I've owned (2) one owner never abused "1300"s and they were both off as is my Son's. Makes accurate set up a real bitch, especially if your using anything but a conical.

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Re: Technics Direct Drive SL 1100 - 1800 models

Post by Japi Roelofs » 31 Aug 2014 14:36

Wouldn't it be possible to shim the cartridge, f.i. put a little wedge between the cartridge mounting plate and the headshell?

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Re: Technics Direct Drive SL 1100 - 1800 models

Post by Guest » 01 Sep 2014 03:49

Japi Roelofs wrote:Wouldn't it be possible to shim the cartridge, f.i. put a little wedge between the cartridge mounting plate and the headshell?
Most certainly!

But as I wrote, it's pain in the ass!

Aside from the fact that I would feel much better with a "truer" geometry, especially if and when using a more complex stylus shape.

I am shopping around for nice reasonably priced head shells to try, but NOT necessarily the ones with provision for azimuth adjustment as they tend to be a bit on the heavy side. That is often the cause and the cure. If you look at many of them of the standard "decent" variety almost all of them have the little index pin off a degree or two from the absolute perpendicular to the cartridge mounting surface (horizontal).

The fact that more than a few companies made azimuth adjustable head shells surely demonstrates that I'm not the only one to have ever had to deal with the issue. During the heyday of Japanese tables with pre-installed cartridges, almost always comical, it wasn't that big a deal. Not until you upgraded your stylus anyway. I also think that after decades have passed and numerous cartridge changes and over torquing those original style Technics head shells may not always be a true as they once were. But in this particular case I do have a little bit more going on and did need to adjsut and still have a small bit of room for improvement.

All of this has been on the secondary fine tune project list as I have been preoccupied with the bigger stuff like re-capping and new cabling; then I can afford the time to really fine tune things.

Most Japanese tables with non-adjustable azimuth do generally have enough wiggle room in the slots for the bayonet to allow me to just gently adjust for the sweet spot.

This particular "1300" and head-shell will not (let me find the straight spot). It is the original one point head shell so a new one may improve things either by being true or enjoying the slight flaw of the typical tolerances being a bit off one way or another to get a good straight alignment.

I've always managed something! :D

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Re: Technics Direct Drive SL 1100 - 1800 models

Post by drugolf » 15 Sep 2014 15:55

anmpr1 wrote:My SL-1100a was not holding pitch. I sprayed the pots with cleaner, with no results. I decided to take it to a local repair shop, and had it in my trunk in the hot sun. When I arrived, and took it out, it was probably 120 degrees or so. We plugged it in an it ran perfect-speed spot on. Maybe the heat loosened up some grunge, who knows. Weird. But now this 1973 deck runs fine, as new.
This is fantastic! Probably was gummed up lubricant/grease.

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Re: Technics Direct Drive SL 1100 - 1800 models

Post by Guest » 16 Sep 2014 02:38

drugolf wrote:
anmpr1 wrote:My SL-1100a was not holding pitch. I sprayed the pots with cleaner, with no results. I decided to take it to a local repair shop, and had it in my trunk in the hot sun. When I arrived, and took it out, it was probably 120 degrees or so. We plugged it in an it ran perfect-speed spot on. Maybe the heat loosened up some grunge, who knows. Weird. But now this 1973 deck runs fine, as new.
This is fantastic! Probably was gummed up lubricant/grease.
Hardened. dried out grease will not effect pitch stability but it will affect the automatic, tonearm return a cueing mechanisms. At least not on a Technics Direct Drive table.
UNLESS your main bearing is so dried out that it's grinding (and you'd probaly know f that were the case; it would be fairly obvious.

The hot trunk trip (not good) might have warmed up bad caps so that they passed current/voltage well enough to work once it was at the shop; best theory I can come up with. That, or it evaporated some moisture that was causing problems. Both of these are pretty far fetched guess.

Any of these 30-40 years old tables should have at minimum two things done:
Re-cap the boards (a simple and pleasurable job on a Technics, especially the pre-quartz lock models
SOAK the variable resistors with DeOxit, exercise them, measure them for drop outs and then adjust
You can then have peace of mind and get another 30+ years service out of the machine

Anything less and you're just rolling the dice

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Re: Technics Direct Drive SL 1100 - 1800 models

Post by Guest » 16 Sep 2014 02:42

anmpr1 wrote:My SL-1100a was not holding pitch. I sprayed the pots with cleaner, with no results. I decided to take it to a local repair shop, and had it in my trunk in the hot sun. When I arrived, and took it out, it was probably 120 degrees or so. We plugged it in an it ran perfect-speed spot on. Maybe the heat loosened up some grunge, who knows. Weird. But now this 1973 deck runs fine, as new.

Is this your machine?:
https://www.vinylengine.com/library/tec ... 1100.shtml

I don't see anything about an "A" model but they did offer an "AC" version with a strobe.
Beautiful early machine
Re-cap it and don't risk losing it or causing further damage as I mentioned above
It's too nice to gamble with (for the small cost of a handful of capacitors)

If you won't do it, send me the control board and I'll do it for you; you pay for the parts and postage

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Re: Technics Direct Drive SL 1100 - 1800 models

Post by Guest » 16 Sep 2014 03:40

Japi Roelofs wrote:
ejd715 wrote:I bought a SL-1500 MKI as my first turntable for $200. I always had problems with the servo-never kept proper pitch. Even had the pitch adjusters cleaned but still didnt hold pitch worth a s**t.
Same here. Usually, cleaning the pots solves the problem, but not on the 1500. I don't know why... I have read some other stories about the 1500 being a bit harder to control in the speed department.
SL-1500: re-cap it and clean it and it will hold pitch as well as any of them

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Re: Technics Direct Drive SL 1100 - 1800 models

Post by anmpr1 » 28 Sep 2014 21:33

Is this your machine?:
https://www.vinylengine.com/library/Tec ... 1100.shtml

I don't see anything about an "A" model but they did offer an "AC" version with a strobe. Beautiful early machine. Re-cap it and don't risk losing it or causing further damage as I mentioned above. It's too nice to gamble with (for the small cost of a handful of capacitors). If you won't do it, send me the control board and I'll do it for you; you pay for the parts and postage

Yes--That's it. It is indeed an 1100A; with the plug in strobe. Nothing about a "C" on the name, though. Right now it's going great. Thanks for the offer.

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Re: Technics Direct Drive SL 1100 - 1800 models

Post by JAYOLIVER » 01 Oct 2014 18:53

How many volts the Lamp illuminator IS? Turntable Technics SA1600 MK2

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Re: Technics Direct Drive SL 1100 - 1800 models

Post by mrbeatle09 » 15 Mar 2015 23:50

I have started to have my turntable speed up for about a second or two. I believe it needs oil and I am unsure on what to buy and how to remove my platter in order to do so....Its a direct drive auto technics quarts