AT LP120 Cue arm damping problem

always listening
Boltman92124
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Re: AT LP120 Cue arm damping problem

Post by Boltman92124 » 11 Nov 2018 14:57

There is als the new VM95e coming out. About $45 I think.

Quartz_Lock10729
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Re: AT LP120 Cue arm damping problem

Post by Quartz_Lock10729 » 11 Nov 2018 18:57

Thanks for the heads up!

Am365
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Re: AT LP120 Cue arm damping problem

Post by Am365 » 05 Jan 2019 17:31

Hello all I’m new here but a google search took me straight to this link and was exactly what I wanted,can’t be bad so I signed up!
Just to thank you for the replies really as I’ve noticed the arm goes down only so far,then it drops like you guys...Bad...Very.
I like slow and with complete control.
I’ve tried seeing what the adjuster screw feels like (with proper JA
P screwdrivers) and I hadn’t thought of the oil so will check that out cheers..
Apart from this (obviously fairly common then!) it seems a decent bit of kit as it is,maybe many users like DJ’s just don’t bother cuing like this ,I don’t always ,but would still like it to not crash down if I do use it... It feels cheap though,no thrills but one thing I started doing is when bringing the lever down,if you gently put some outward pressure as you bring it down (as opposed to the ‘dead centre where it seems to collect the slack ,pretty loose isn’t it?) the slight resistance you generate doing that ,seems to control it much better and in a slow single motion,which is what we want..
Thanks anyway,interesting site here,pleased to find it!

Am365
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Re: AT LP120 Cue arm damping problem

Post by Am365 » 05 Jan 2019 18:08

karateman wrote:
26 Jun 2018 08:43
wgarneau wrote: Put a bit of the silicone fluid in both, and put the bar back on. Do not screw it in very much. Instead, put the cartridge body back on and then, with a record on, adjust the cuing arm down to the desired height with the screw.
You say put the fluid in both the holes....in an earlier post the guy said put the fluid in the hole with the screw in..then one said all three holes....of the three holes which hole or holes does the fluid go in?
Yes, how many holes in there? 1,2 or 3?

Am365
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Re: AT LP120 Cue arm damping problem

Post by Am365 » 05 Jan 2019 18:10

[/quote]

You say put the fluid in both the holes....in an earlier post the guy said put the fluid in the hole with the screw in..then one said all three holes....of the three holes which hole or holes does the fluid go in?
[/quote]

Any idea how many holes there are 1,2 or 3 same question (before I take it apart!)

Am365
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Re: AT LP120 Cue arm damping problem

Post by Am365 » 05 Jan 2019 18:20

Surprised this isn’t already here,hope it helps someone!

https://youtu.be/lX_iU3nWzSM

Boltman92124
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Re: AT LP120 Cue arm damping problem

Post by Boltman92124 » 05 Jan 2019 18:44

Am365 wrote:
05 Jan 2019 17:31
Hello all I’m new here but a google search took me straight to this link and was exactly what I wanted,can’t be bad so I signed up!
Just to thank you for the replies really as I’ve noticed the arm goes down only so far,then it drops like you guys...Bad...Very.
I like slow and with complete control.
I’ve tried seeing what the adjuster screw feels like (with proper JA
P screwdrivers) and I hadn’t thought of the oil so will check that out cheers..
Apart from this (obviously fairly common then!) it seems a decent bit of kit as it is,maybe many users like DJ’s just don’t bother cuing like this ,I don’t always ,but would still like it to not crash down if I do use it... It feels cheap though,no thrills but one thing I started doing is when bringing the lever down,if you gently put some outward pressure as you bring it down (as opposed to the ‘dead centre where it seems to collect the slack ,pretty loose isn’t it?) the slight resistance you generate doing that ,seems to control it much better and in a slow single motion,which is what we want..
Thanks anyway,interesting site here,pleased to find it!
http://www.turntablebasics.com/silicone.html

Use this stuff. Basically, I just put a drop right in both sides of the holes. It will work well. Careful not to lose your spring.

Am365
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Re: AT LP120 Cue arm damping problem

Post by Am365 » 06 Jan 2019 02:47

Yes thanks for that- so just two holes aprt from where the scew and spring goes...
What are the holes like? just flat bottomed and just support for the sliding posts that hold it in place I presume?

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Re: AT LP120 Cue arm damping problem

Post by Canadianguy51 » 09 Oct 2019 16:36

wgarneau wrote:
12 Feb 2018 18:58
This post is several months old, but just in case someone else sees it.. I bought the silicone damping fluid linked above, and used it. I wanted to share what I found.

I took off the cartridge body off the tone arm and took the screw out of the cuing bar. You have to unscrew quite a bit to get the cuing arm off, as the screw not only holds the bar in, but also sets its level.

Once the screw is completely loosened, remove the bar. You will have to maneuver it carefully around the tone arm, as the tone arm does not move quite all of the way out of the way, but you can get the bar out with the tone arm all the way in toward the center of the platter.

There will be two holes, in addition to the one the screw came out of. Put a bit of the silicone fluid in both, and put the bar back on. Do not screw it in very much. Instead, put the cartridge body back on and then, with a record on, adjust the cuing arm down to the desired height with the screw.

Re-calibrate the downforce, and see how it works. If the cuing arm still goes down too fast, repeat the process and add a little more of the silicone fluid. Repeat until you have the desired speed.

My cuing arm works beautifully now - better than it did when new.

Hi...I only see 2 holes the one the screw comes out and the hole in front of it, where is the other? Talking about around the thread screw post?

Boltman92124
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Re: AT LP120 Cue arm damping problem

Post by Boltman92124 » 09 Oct 2019 19:11

Canadianguy51 wrote:
09 Oct 2019 16:36
wgarneau wrote:
12 Feb 2018 18:58
This post is several months old, but just in case someone else sees it.. I bought the silicone damping fluid linked above, and used it. I wanted to share what I found.

I took off the cartridge body off the tone arm and took the screw out of the cuing bar. You have to unscrew quite a bit to get the cuing arm off, as the screw not only holds the bar in, but also sets its level.

Once the screw is completely loosened, remove the bar. You will have to maneuver it carefully around the tone arm, as the tone arm does not move quite all of the way out of the way, but you can get the bar out with the tone arm all the way in toward the center of the platter.

There will be two holes, in addition to the one the screw came out of. Put a bit of the silicone fluid in both, and put the bar back on. Do not screw it in very much. Instead, put the cartridge body back on and then, with a record on, adjust the cuing arm down to the desired height with the screw.

Re-calibrate the downforce, and see how it works. If the cuing arm still goes down too fast, repeat the process and add a little more of the silicone fluid. Repeat until you have the desired speed.

My cuing arm works beautifully now - better than it did when new.

Hi...I only see 2 holes the one the screw comes out and the hole in front of it, where is the other? Talking about around the thread screw post?
The well around the spring hole. I'm certain I put some into the spring hole too. Moved it around with a toothpick to even it out. Works great. In fact, I probably put too much in there the first time and the arm lowered very slowly and then loosened up after awhile. I re-applied more of it about a year later. They sure do give you alot of it! Lifetime supply lol!