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Dual 1219

3-Speed Fully-Automatic Idler-Drive Turntable (1969)

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dual 1219 tonearm
dual 1219 tonearm close up
Dual 1219


Despite its versatility and precision, the Dual 1219 is quite easy to operate in either single play or multiple play mode.

It is also quite difficult to damage.

If you happen to switch to start when the tonearm is locked on the resting post, just wait till the switch returns to neutral, unlock the tonearm and start again.

If the speed is set at 45rpm when you have a 33rpm record on the platter, just change the speed accordingly, even if the tonearm is already cycling.

You can also do the same with the record size indicator.


Power supply: AC, 50 or 60Hz, changeable by changing motor pulley

Power supply voltage: 110/117V or 220V switchable

Drive: Synchronous continuous-pole motor with radial-elastic suspension

Platter: non-magnetic, dynamically balanced, 3.1kg

Speeds: 33, 45 and 78rpm

Pitch control variation: 6%

Rumble: -60db (weighted)

Tonearm: extra long, torsionally rigid metal arm, 4-point gimbal suspension, skeletal head design

Cartridge holder: removable, accepts all 1/2" cartridges from 1 to 12g

Weight: 6.8kg

Dimensions: 376 x 334mm


brochure  Deutsch

brochure  Francais - alo7a8

diy service guide  English - gridleakrick

instruction/owners manual  Deutsch

instruction/owners manual  English

instructions (revision)  Nederlands - Ploegje

mounting instructions  English

mounting template (not to scale)  English

reviews  English - finkerbell

service manual  Deutsch

service manual  English

(US model) instruction/owners manual  English

B-L-869 brochure  English - finkerbell

F-19-1269 brochure  English - finkerbell

united audio base flyer  English - finkerbell

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Dual 1219 owners manual, service manuals and schematics are for reference only and the Vinyl Engine bears no responsibility for errors or other inaccuracies. The PDF files are provided under strict licence. Reproduction without prior permission or for financial gain is strictly prohibited. This website is not affiliated with or sponsored by Dual.


Part numbers for the 33 and 45 rpm stacking spindles?

Does anyone know the designations for the two 1219 stacking spindles?



Much Thanks for the Owners and Service Manuals

I bought my Dual 1219 turntable almost 40 years ago. It served me very well untill the early '80s when I needed a unit with manual start and cue functions. I bought a Technics 1200 MKII which I am still using. However, the Dual 1219 can play 78 rpm records. I needed the manuals to fix one problem, which I have done, so I can now transfer the 78's to digital.

Again, thanks for your site!

Dual 1219

More pictures of the Dual 1219

Dual 1219 wont start.

First i would like to thank you for responding to my question on
how to
remove the platter. I would never have found the tiny c clip
which must be
removed without your help. I now have a problem as follows;
when i try to
start the turntable nothing happens. I checked the connections,
they seem to
be ok. any suggestions?

nothing happens

Just a few questions: Do you have the turntable plugged into the the receiver or directly into an electrical outlet? If a receiver, is it fused? Is anything happening on the turntable such as hearing a noise but the platter is not moving?

dual1219 tonearm

Thanks radioboy for your prompt response. The way I received the turntable, the cartridge mount was already detached from the tonearm (except for the wires which connect it through the tonearm). I would like to raise the tonearm to the vertical position (perpendicular to the turntable) so I can see to re-attach the cartridge mount with the (very very) small screw that holds it to the tone arm. Right now I am lucky if the tonearm raises 10 degrees from horizontal. It appears that the gimbal suspension is restricting this movement. Is there a way to do this? Thank You!

Re: 1219 Tonearm - Cartridge mounting

To release the cartridge mount, push the arm lift, which protrudes from the headshell, toward the rear of the tonearm. This should release the cartridge holder. Hold the cartridge (if one is already in place) as you do this or it will fall out.

Once the cartridge holder is removed, access to the relevant screws and wires is readily available. Now would be a good time to remove any tarnish that has built up on the silver contacts which connect the cartridge mount to the tonearm headhell. A light rubbing with a pencil eraser should do the trick.

Figures 13 and 14 of the owner's manual listed on this page will be worth a thousand words... so I'll shut up now.

Good luck.

dual 1219 tonearm

I recently acquired a dual 1219 and it appears to be in pretty good shape except for the tonearm. The cartridge holder seems to attach to the tonearm bar with a small screw put in from the bottom. I have the screw but I am unable to lift up the tonearm to a verticle position so i can insert the screw. Do I have to disassemble the entire tonearm assembly?

Aftermath of a Frozen Cam

Hi, newbie radioboy here.
I've had a non-working 1219 that I finally decided to tackle. Speed selector was glued frozen. Cleaned and lubed it and got it going. cleaned and lubed other parts, but the arm didn't move horizontally. Thanks to this site I found out about the guide "pimpel" and made one. Changer worked for all of two cycles, then wouldn't start.
Turns out that the old lube on the main cam had reached critical mass, froze, and had taken the attached start lever with it (part labeled 231 in fig.27). It's bent like a pretzel.
Any way of repairing /replacing this?

Operating Manual

I'm a brand new member. I don't know why? But, lately I've started getting into collecting turntables. But I digress... A coworker gave me this Dual 1219. The idler wheel doesn't make contact with the motor. The only switch that seems to operate to the correct stops is the record size selector. The master operating switch seems to have too much travel, and the speed sector switch is jammed. This may be a rather involved restoration project.
This is you brain on digital ------ This is your brain on analog ~

Dual 1219

This is a fairly common complaint- what has happened is that the lubricants have dried up after 40 or so years. The only solution is to disassemble the entire unit, clean the bearing surfaces and relubricate. I was a Dual technician in the Chicago area and I've literally done hundreds... it's involved, but not too difficult. The important thing is not to force anything that does'nt want to move, because if you break it, it's done! I have found that a drop or two of automatic transmission fluid frequently frees up frozen parts enough for disassembly. Good luck, any questions- let me know...


Hello firetech1954
I'm and new member working on my 1218. Noticed that you mentioned that you were a DUAL tech. Just downloaded a 1219 service manual, could not find the 1218 manual. Is the 1219 service manual similar enough to the 1218 manual to help me.


Cleaning Dual 1219 motor bearings

My dual 1219 motor does not turn and has not been used in 15+ years. It will turn by hand but with some tightness. Is this normal or should it turn very freely?

Based on what I have read here, the motor bearings could be gummed up. The motor does gets warm to the touch with the start switch engaged. Turning the platter by hand, turns it off. Any hope for the motor?

To clean and get to the bearing(s), I assume I need to take off the bottom motor housing? The diagram in the manual does not show where the bearing(s) is located? Not sure I'm ready to do this blindly and your experience can lead me out of the darkness. Any other tips appreciated. Would like to see the motor turning before I work on cleaning lubing other parts.

Many thanks!

frozen motor shaft

mickey besso:my 1219 motor had the same problem. i removed the motor and was trying to disassemble the motor halves. in an effort not to break anything, i was bumping the motor with a rubber mallet. this apparently freed the locked bearing and the motor started working smooth as glass. Motor dissasembly NOT necessary.

Cleaning bronze bearings in small motors

Many small electric motors in have bronze bearings. These bearings are cheap and work very well. But over a period of time the oil in the bearings becomes dirty and thickens. Eventually it becomes more like glue than of oil. Sometimes just oiling the motor with a very high quality, penetrating oil will free the bearings. Sometimes this only works fro a short time. Disassembling the motor and cleaning the bearings usually keeps it working for years. I have disassembled, cleaned, and oiled many of these motors using the following procedure.

1) Remove the motor from the piece of equipment unless you can easily work on it in the equipment. Be very careful not to pull the wires out of the motor.
2) Mark the position of the end bells of the motor so that they can be reinstalled exactly as they were. Then remove the end bells. The rotor should come free of the end bells. If the motor has a pulley on the end, remove it after marking its position on the motor shaft. On some motors the wires pass through one of the end bells. do not pull the wires loose.
3) Clean the shaft of the rotor with a small oil soaked rag. Get it as clean as possible. Inspect the shaft after cleaning. If it is scored, the shaft and bearings are badly worn.
4) Clean the bores of the bearings with oil soaked cotton swabs. Get it as clean as you can.
5) Oil the bearings several times. Let the oil soak into the bearings for hours each time. Bronze bearings have little cracks in them that soak up and hold the oil. Often there is felt around them too. Soak the felt also. After you finish, clean up any excess oil.
6) Reassemble the motor. Reattach the motor pulley if it was removed.
7) Rotate the motor shaft. Be sure that it spins freely.
8) Reinstall the motor.

The lubricant that have used with these motors for many years is gun oil (Hoppes or Breakfree, which I get from a local gun store. It is very penetrating (breaks down the gunk), and works very at both low and high temperatures, and has the correct viscosity. Some of the experts on the Ampex Mailing List recommend "turbine oil" for these bearings. It is sold in small bottles as "Zoom Spout Oil" in one of the hardware store chains in the US. (I believe it is Ace Hardware.) Avoid "Motor Oil" intended for Automobiles. It does not lubricate well at low temperatures.

Be careful to avoid electric shock and to reconnect the wires properly. Many of these motors have mains voltage on them. Most equipment has mains voltage in it.


Where can I purchase new wiring for my tonearm?

I am the original owner of my 1219 attending UW Madison in the day. Great turntable and I like your advice about cleaning carefully. New wiring is what I need and hope that I can install it myself with easy available tools. Any advice before beginning this project?

tone arm wires

take the wire for a PS2 mouse and use the wiring from that.

Tonearm Wiring

It is unlikely that you need to rewire this arm unless the wiring has been physically damaged. The most common point of failure in this instance is the audio connect cables, which connect from underneath the turntable to your receiver. If those are OK you may have a bad cartridge of headshell. Another thing you can try is to carefully burnish the headshell contact points on the head of the tonearm, to remove the dark colored tarnish that is sure to be there. You can do this with a pencil eraser. There is also an audio mute switch that rides on the cycle cam- it's job is to mute the audio during auto cycle functions to avoid the needle "pop" that occurs when the needle is dropped or picked up from the record. If this is mis-aligned or damaged, or any of the wires are loose, it will cause the loss of one or both audio channels. Let me know how it turns out....


This is fantastic to find a site that has so many helpful library articals. My old Dual been sitting to long and now I have what I never ever had--- A Manual to make the correct procedurues to adjust the tone arm balance and recommendations.

Sometime ago my little ones, now grown, wrecked my Dual 1219, it sat for a long time in the basement. Last Month while cleaning up we ran across it on the shelf and fixed it with all our skills. Its perfect once more! LIKE NEW but no manual and needle (stylist or what ever ya want to call it).

So thanks all, And If Ya Need your Equipment Fixed and your in the neiborhood, More than happy to help.

Thanks for the service

Thanks for the service manual on the Dual 1219 turntable. This was my Dad's and my husband and I want to start listening to records. Thanks for the manual because it helped us put it back together. It is greatly appreciated!


thanks for the service manuel for dual 1219. I'm hoping I can fix the problem-I jarred the table and now the tonearm will not lift automatically and into start position alsoat the end of the record the arm only goes backa couple of inches and then drops again to the record instead of retuning and shutting off. Any suggestions?


a couple of things to try

1) put the tonearm on the rest and lock it down with the keeper, and turn the switch to start and let it run a cycle - that is supposed to be some kind of auto-reset

2) There is a "steurpimpel" on the end of the shaft that drives the mechanics of the arm, etc. -- it sometimes comes off/breaks
"google" up pimpel, dual, and 1219 to get a picture of where it is located

Dual guide piece

The part # is 216 844, and is listed in the service manual as a "guide".