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Dual 1019 - my first idler

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Dual 1019 - my first idler

Postby Dyolf » 06 Apr 2013 21:38

Hi.
Today I bought my first idler drive table, a dual 1019, that set me back £5.
Considering the price, I should not expect everything to work flawlessly, but after cleaning it up, I was actually quite pleased with it. All the mechanics seem to work, and the table itself is undamaged. Only the 16rpm. setting is not functioning, because the top of the pulley is missing (broken off)

Question: How hot should the motor be after running half an hour at 45 rpm.?
Me think it's quite hot! :?
Also, for a motor that is suppused to be running quiet, I'm not impressed. How much noise and vibration is normal?
Steen
TTS3000/RKG309/DL103 -> Xindak LP1 -> Kairn -> 2x Klout -> 107/2
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Re: Dual 1019 - my first idler

Postby Doug G. » 07 Apr 2013 17:44

1019s are wonderful turntables.

I guess I never noticed the temperature of the motor in mine. Does the area above where the motor is in yours get very warm?

As to noise, the oil reservoirs in these motors have a tendency to dry out (after all, they are approaching fifty years of age) and the oil needs to be replenished. That's what I did to mine and the motor is silent since I did.

The lack of sufficient oil can be the cause of the excess heat too.

Doug
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Re: Dual 1019 - my first idler

Postby Dyolf » 07 Apr 2013 19:13

Doug G. wrote:As to noise, the oil reservoirs in these motors have a tendency to dry out (after all, they are approaching fifty years of age) and the oil needs to be replenished. That's what I did to mine and the motor is silent since I did.
The lack of sufficient oil can be the cause of the excess heat too.
Doug


Learning new stuff every day :shock:
Did'nt know theese motors needed oil. Do I need to take the motor apart, or is there a simpler way? At the moment the table is hanging on a provisional rack, so everything is visible and accessable. What kind of oil is recommended?
Steen

Edit: Maybe now is a good time to sit down with the service manual :lol:
TTS3000/RKG309/DL103 -> Xindak LP1 -> Kairn -> 2x Klout -> 107/2
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Re: Dual 1019 - my first idler

Postby DualSpinsMyVinyl » 07 Apr 2013 21:07

Dyolf,

My suggestion is to dig in and take the motor appart. First thing make a pencil mark on the side of the motor casing extending from the top half to the bottom half. This will make it easy to reassemble the case properly. There is a small bracket on each side of the motor casing with a screw and nut holding the motor casing together, you may have to do a little nudging of the case to get it appart, they can be tight. You can remove the motor pully by loosening the set screw, if you do this make sure to mark its postion on the shaft so that you will get it back as close to where it was for proper platter speed. This will allow you to remove the top half of the motor casing from the armature. You will find a brass bearing/bushing in each half of the case. This brass bushing has a material inside that is designed to absorbe oil and slowly release it to the bearing over an extended time. A few drops of oil should be administered 4 or 5 times over 2 to 3 minutes. It is necessary to saturate this with light weight machine oil. I use hobby oil designed for my model railroad. It has a viscosity of SSU at 100 deg. F because the motor does get warm during use. I also place a small amount of oil on the shaft when putting the motor back together to make sure it is well lubricated. When you are through the motor armature should spin easily. On my 1219 it spins very easily and continus to rotate for a couple of seconds after spinning it.
Good Luck.
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Re: Dual 1019 - my first idler

Postby Dyolf » 07 Apr 2013 21:26

Thanks to "DualSpinsMyVinyl" for his reply. I will do as suggested, and hope for a more silent and less vibrational operation.
I am seriously considering building an "open" plinth, so that one can actually see whats going on beneath the surface of a Dual. I love the way the mechanics work.
Steen
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