
GR350 wrote:Seem that everyone pays a lot of attention to their equipment. I thought I would toss out a bit of info. I just bought a nifty little machinist level for setting up the turntable. Works like a charm and I think is very reasonably priced at around $30. Much more sensitive than your typical hardware store level. If you are interested look up a Starrett model 130 machinist bench level. You can order them from many tool dealers.

GR350 wrote:Mr.Datsun- You might check out "Level Developments". Located in the UK. The one that caught my eye was the GP15. 15'/1.5mm sensitivity. A bit better than the Starrett 130. Tried to get one but they don't have a distributor over here. Might be cheaper too. Anyway I just wasn't satisfied with the precision of carpenters levels. Started looking for something that had published data and was less expensive than a regular machinist level. This is what I came up with.
If you get one, I would be interested to know how it performs for you.
xyyyy wrote:After leveling the turntable, I don't understand the need to leave a level on the tableIs this to address ones stand getting bumped into, or the turntable getting 'manhandled'?

mr.datsun wrote:GR350 wrote:Mr.Datsun- You might check out "Level Developments". Located in the UK. The one that caught my eye was the GP15. 15'/1.5mm sensitivity. A bit better than the Starrett 130. Tried to get one but they don't have a distributor over here. Might be cheaper too. Anyway I just wasn't satisfied with the precision of carpenters levels. Started looking for something that had published data and was less expensive than a regular machinist level. This is what I came up with.
If you get one, I would be interested to know how it performs for you.
GR350, thanks - but I can't find that part number on their website. Could you tell me what kind of level was it - or which section was it in?

Rob998 wrote:Here you go. http://www.leveldevelopments.com/instru ... levels.htm That part number relates to a screw on level though? Don't suppose it matters as long as the base of the level is, er, level.


bacobits wrote:When I level a TT I check level on the platter. The only time you can't do that is if it is concave a bit for clamping, most are not. I use a 1" round spirit level, plastic, from a lab instrument and a free 1" bubble lever from a clock installer. Not expensive stuff. I use a 6" and 36" longer for the rack shelving.
We're not running NASA here.![]()
I'm being sarcastic.
Mr.D appreciate the consideration.
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