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Rewiring stock arm on late model EB101

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Rewiring stock arm on late model EB101

Postby 4evernoob » 30 Jan 2010 10:30

I've searched high and low and can't find a 'guide' or 'how to' that would assist a complete novice in trying to rewire this tonearm.

I don't even know enough to ask the right questions, so I'll start with these:

1) Do I want to buy something like this?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CARDAS-33awg-LITZ ... 939wt_1154

...or, rather, loose like this?
http://www.partsconnexion.com/wire_tonearm_cardas.html

...or even with clips attached like this?
http://www.dedicatedaudio.com/inc/sdetail/8824

...or do I buy the headshell leads separately, like this?
http://www.needledoctor.com/Cardas-HSL- ... tegory=431

And what of the black ground wire?

Will I have to dissemble the tonearm? Leave it intact but remove it from the table?

What of all the chatter (regarding different arms entirely) of simply using the old wires to "pull" the new wires through the arm, without removing anything? (I suppose this would be "non-invasive" surgery...).

The ultimate question may just be: does anyone know whether this job is offered as a service, by professionals, and could I have it done without sending away my table (maybe just the arm)?

I'm 85% sure that I am incompetent to do this myself, but 100% certain of my incompetence without a very, VERY detailed set of instructions.

Sincerely,

Delusions of Grandeur

[PS -- To answer the implied question: I have to rewire the arm because there appears to be a short *and* two of the wires were broken during a move.]
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rewire AR -Jelco Arm

Postby panman » 30 Jan 2010 13:24

I agree with B,
another option for a rewire is "Britaudio" out of N.C.,I had him rewire a RB-250 a few years back does a great job with Cardas.If I remember his name is Mike,great guy,cool site.Sells top products at great prices.
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Thank you!

Postby 4evernoob » 31 Jan 2010 06:56

This was exactly the unequivocal response I needed. Broken tonearm and dented wall sounds exactly like me. And pro rewiring is cheaper than divorce. I'm hiring this job out!
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Dissed and dismissed!

Postby 4evernoob » 02 Feb 2010 00:40

Ok so Brit Audio very politely said no to rewiring the (Jelco I guess?) stock arm on my EB101. D'oh! I have asked for a quote from Johnnie at Audio Origami but at the same time, I'm concerned I might have to buy a new arm.

The problem is, I don't have the slightest idea what I'm doing even in removing the AR stock arm, much less mounting a better arm. I am told that the simplest thing is to find an arm with the same geometry and armboard. Would I need to drill new holes in the armboard I have? How to make this least involved? I am in no position to buy or fashion a replacement armboard, so is there a "plug and play" solution for me?

In short, can anyone recommend an arm for the later model EB101 to replace the Jelco(?) stock? And is there a Complete Idiot's Guide to doing the job?

*Sniff, sniff...sob*

All I wanted was to get my vinyl back on the platter. Damn, all of a sudden it's so quiet in my study -- I might have to get some work done. Help!
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Postby 4evernoob » 02 Feb 2010 01:38

Thanks.

If budget is an issue, is there any arm that would let me use the (I know, but remember before you guys throw tomatoes that I am just trying to get back where I started)...stock armboard without mods?
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Postby JaS » 02 Feb 2010 09:36

4evernoob wrote:If budget is an issue, is there any arm that would let me use the (I know, but remember before you guys throw tomatoes that I am just trying to get back where I started)...stock armboard without mods?

Looking at the tonearm database I don't see any arms that will drop straight in? Part of the problem with the EB101 is that it has fixed mounting distance (unless you drill the metal sub chassis) and it isn't a common distance. Also, according to the 'fitting alternative tonearms' booklet (in the library) you are supposed to change the mounting collar for different arms, and these are probably unobtainable now? It is possible to fit a new arm but it might take some expert DIY skills to do it right?

Regards,
JaS

PS removing your tonearm to get it rewired is easy enough - it's the reverse of the procedure covered in the booklet mentioned above
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Postby JaS » 02 Feb 2010 15:30

The early model EB 101 had an arm that didn't want replaced....the later model is pretty much the same as a The Turntable or Legend except for shape of the base.

Oops, I missed the 'late model' in the title :oops: That makes swapping arms much easier, but there still doesn't seem to be anything that will fit without getting a new armboard? It's probably a better bet in the long run to buy a new armboard and fit a better arm than rewire the original, which if it's anything like the one they fitted for the UK market is nothing special.

Regards,
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There may be no good answer...

Postby 4evernoob » 03 Feb 2010 08:20

A million thanks, all. I really appreciate all the the ongoing attention and good advice I've gotten on this query.

So, I think I'm resolved to let Audio Origami sell me an RB251 but then I have not the *slightest* how to correctly install the thing, much less adjust the VTA (lots of scary sounding references to shims and screws and whatnot online...). And where will I find the planet's least expensive arm board, given that I had a budget of $0 going into this and now the arm alone is going to set me back a couple hundred.

Variations on my earlier questions arise...

Can I even do this job competently (the only thing worse than a sidelined AR table would be a still-sidelined table hundreds of dollars later...)?

Is there some step-by-step instruction available somewhere online?

Where will I buy a RB251-compatible armboard so inexpensive that it surely makes the average poster here turn up his nose but fits in with my budget of $0.79 and a modest bottle cap collection?

Wtf is a "shim" and where will I acquire them, much less utilize them to correctly install a new arm?

*sobbing into pillow once again*
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Re: There may be no good answer...

Postby JaS » 03 Feb 2010 13:44

he Jelco is based on Baerwald null points, the Rega on Stephenson nulls. Baerwald sounds better across the whole album, Stephenson sounds better the last few grooves.

I don't want to confuse the original poster (skip this post!) but the 250 ST geometry is interesting. It doesn't use Loefgren A or B null points for IEC grooves, but rather somewhere in between the two. It's got slightly higher maximum distortion than Loefgren A (Baerwald), but average rms distortion is very close to that of Loefgren B (but with less overhang). It's a very good compromise. There's nothing stopping you aligning a Rega to these null points but I have to say that the standard geometry for the Jelco is superior (although the extra length of the Rega pretty much offsets this advantage!).

Regards,
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Re: There may be no good answer...

Postby JaS » 03 Feb 2010 16:09

Odd.........it mounts at 210mm has 18mm overhang.....

Hi,
Aligning a 210mm arm perfectly to Baerwald IEC null points requires 18.2mm of overhang and a 24.2 degree offset angle. This is very close to Jelco's published geometry (18mm and 23.75 degrees) but it means that setting an 18mm overhang with the cartridge perfectly square in the headshell, the stylus will align at 68.4 and 115.2mm rather than 66 and 120.9mm, so it isn't quite a Baerwald design (it is close to Loefgren B for DIN grooves). You probably wouldn't notice the small offset angle misalignment using a Baerwald protractor, but if you used an overhang gauge and kept the cartridge 100% square to dial in Jelco's alignment you'd get the results posted above.

I thought this was an interesting deviation from Loefgren A/B but it's probably just to make the the mounting distance and overhang figures round numbers which is very common on Japanese arms ;)

Regards,
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Generosity run amok!

Postby 4evernoob » 04 Feb 2010 03:10

Wow, Marc. This is easily the kindest offer I've ever had from a stranger!

> If you buy a new arm, send me your armboard and I'll cut it to fit the arm you buy...........you pay shipping to and back.........no charge on the work.

Maybe you can talk me out of the Rega RB251. My reasons for leaning that way were:

Audio Origami has offered to sell me a brand new one for US$150, which is far less expensive than I can find a Jelco.

Also, the above price includes phono interconnects, so there would be no soldering required of me (i.e., "plug and play.")

If I can get the Rega arm geometry right (recut armboard), properly adjusted, and VTA adjustments worked out, I think *even I* can be up and running again.

With the Jelco arm, my qs would be: can I get one really cheap (a quick look suggests no) and can I mount/install easily (my understanding suggests not as easily...if a soldering iron is to be involved!).

In any case, very VERY kind of you to re-cut this crummy stock armboard for me.

What do you think is the verdict, gang? Is the Rega going to be less expensive/more "idiot proof" or am I missing something here?
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Postby 4evernoob » 04 Feb 2010 03:47

Yes, and I'm Amanda, so we are properly introduced!

I meant "crummy" as a nod to earlier comments about the poor quality of the stock armboards. Mine appears to be in "like new condition," as is the whole set-up (well, except for the wiring in my poor stock arm of course...). My dad had this in a closet for 20+ yrs so it's in very good cosmetic shape.

You guys seem to be one of those 'best of the net' pockets: helpful, tolerant, patient w those who wander in. And, what, not a flame war in any direction?!

Dad's little bag of tricks includes a Sure stylus force gauge, a little bubble level and a phono cartridge alignment tool (printed on a mirror) from http://www.turntablebasics.com. Oh, and the usual anti-static and disc washing typse stuff. Any other "tools of the trade" I would need/like to have in mounting/calibrating a new arm/cartridge?

If I click the "buy" button from J7 tonight, when do I send you an armboard, Marc? And where do I get the "template" for the new arm to send along to you?
And would you let me pay you something for your time?? Seems only fair as I've asked for lots of it already!
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Postby 4evernoob » 05 Feb 2010 11:25

Just closing out this thread (for now!) to say THANKS to everyone who was so helpful to the noob, esp Marc. We've emailed directly and he is so kindly helping me sort the armboard.

J7 at Audio Origami has sold me a Rega rb251 and thanks to the magic of paypal it is already winging its way to me. I'm hoping that in a week's time, a few allen wrenches, shims and maybe a few curse words later...I'll be a vinyl junkie again!

Until then, or until my next sorta-neurotic panic attack related to this project,

ttyl,

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