Project AR XA :: upgrade to Rega RB250

[JimmyDoug]

Hey guys, thanks! Today, I got back on track with this project.

Panman, I already have my 047 cap ready to go and I picked up 18 g hookup wire at RadShack today. It is the same size as my original wiring. However, I do NOT have a wiring diagram and figure I'll have to find that in the next week or two.

RS, I was able to drill one RCA jack hole and the grounding plug hole today. I have an old belt-drive drill press that has a base and shelf that are in the way of allowing me to get the "outer" RCA jack hole, since there is not enough space. I hope to adjust the head unit to rotate on the post. We'll see. I also have to figure out how to cleanly and squarely countersink that back (inside of plinth) of the grounding plug hole since the threaded shaft is not long enough to pass through. But I'll post some pics tomorrow.

In the meantime, I have a set of Linn Nirvana springs that are the exact height and a little thicker than the stock springs. But they are machined at top and bottom, so that they are level.
I also picked up two hole saws. A 2.5" for the armboard hole, 19mm for the power switch. We'll see how those work out. If they do, I'll get a third for the extension plate for the Michell VTA and mounting stem to go through.

Don't know if I'll use it yet, but I picked up some Bondo Easy Finish Heavy Duty Rubberized Undercoating. I would use it as a sound deadener. Here's a link:
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...glJ2VFR0K91Bbl

But I still want to find the adhesive backed sound sheets. I get supplies at Parts Express when I can buy enough to justify the shipping charges . . . so I'll check again. I need to get another IEC for my Thorens table when I get around to building a new plinth on that. But first things first . . .

Alec, I want to stay away from Dynamat for two reasons. Cost is the main reason. But I've seen thinner sheets that I think look more to my liking (I'm weird that way).

Before you put the table together, email me and I'll show you how to balance/level the system first. Instead of trying to get it "right" once all put back together.

Hey
I'm interested in your method for balancing/leveling the AR- please PM!
Jim

[kenwood61]

[kenwood61]

[kenwood61]

I'm using a wood stir stick to measure depth.

[kenwood61]

This is a loose fit.

[inside plinth]



[outside plinth]

[snfrosten]

Nice hole

One down, one to go

Those are easy its the a/c that's going to the a bit harder to cut.

Keep it up, can't wait for the finished product

[kenwood61]

. . . and then there is the grounding plug hole

I have my drill bits that match the radius at the key corners for the IEC plug. I have various saws, including a jeweler type saw (I think that's what it's called). It has a thin blade for scroll cutting. I will just have to see what I feel most comfortable with. My jig saw blades aren't narrow enough. If I have to, I'll simply drill hole at a reasonable interval in order to get the best cut. I'll err on cutting less, knowing I can file/sand to the proper hole size.

[kenwood61]

By the way, I saw your most recent AR build on the forum today and it looks nice. I can only hope mine will come out as cleanly done.

[Alec124c41]

. . . and then there is the grounding plug hole

I have my drill bits that match the radius at the key corners for the IEC plug. I have various saws, including a jeweler type saw (I think that's what it's called). It has a thin blade for scroll cutting. I will just have to see what I feel most comfortable with. My jig saw blades aren't narrow enough. If I have to, I'll simply drill hole at a reasonable interval in order to get the best cut. I'll err on cutting less, knowing I can file/sand to the proper hole size.

A good sharp chisel can clean up a hole nicely, too.

Cheers,
Alec

[kenwood61]

I will have to sharpen my chisels then . . . or get a new one specifically for fine wood work. The ones I have are cheap and have used and abused.

[kenwood61]

Oh, I wish I could shift the blame, but I can't

But that is a good idea. There is a Rockler and Woodcraft store in my area and they always have a huge variety of chisels.

[kenwood61]

are you kidding? she doesn't look at this site

[kenwood61]

Yahoo! I got my #10-24 stainless steel studs, wingnuts and washers to use with the Linn Nirvana springs!! I actually have two sets of the studs/washers/wingnuts in case I decide to put on my Thorens TD160 MkII. I wound up with 6 stainless studs in the #10-32 size which DO NOT fit the AR XA top plate. If someone needs, PM me.

I also got my 5/8" straight router bit to finish up the back side of the rca chassis jack holes in the plinth, and a smaller wood chisel so I can clean out the IEC power jack hole (after I drill out the main portion).

I will most likely NOT use the bottom rubber grommet on with the springs. But I kept them in the photo. If I do use them, I will try out an idea I have on centering them.

One note on the studs. They don't seat solidly, which leads me to guess that I need a regular nut to help secure it to the top plate threaded socket. If that doesn't make sense, don't worry, I'll show a picture in the near future, when I get to that part of the reassembly.

I still have more work to do that keeps getting pushed back due to other things cropping up that I can't prevent. But I assure you, now that I have the bits I need for finishing up holes on the plinth, I will focus on that next.

Here's some pics.

[snfrosten]

Studs look good, if you use a little Loctite it will seat them fine.

The rubber grommets really work well in the subchassis keeping the springs properly seated and bouncing in the right direction. If you have 3'' studs and add a little dampening/weight to the subchassis you will be able to use them effectively.