Pro-Ject Motor and SpeedBox with AR Turntables?

[reverber]

If you take it to Radio Shack, they have a selection of plugs (for when you buy a wall wart ps) that you can try out to get the correct size.

Cody

[JXO]

It's a 2.1 mm plug.

[MuZak]

I was waiting anxiously to see what else is nescessary
to complete the project!!!

Not to mention how it came out, and how it sounds?!??!

JXO... I'd be real greatful to find out the rest!

Thanx,
Greg

[JXO]

I was waiting anxiously to see what else is nescessary
to complete the project!!!

Not to mention how it came out, and how it sounds?!??!

JXO... I'd be real greatful to find out the rest!

Thanx,
Greg

The wheels of progress turn very slowly. Objective number 1 was to have my dealer install a new tonearm cable and cartridge-- it sat with him forever. It's finally back as of 2 weeks ago but the cartridge needs to be replaced.

I believe I have everything to begin toying with the motor upgrade; hopefully, I will get a chance in the next week or two. keep you posted.

[JXO]

will try to install and wire the motor to the speedbox this weekend.

One question: the female 2.1mm connector has 3 connection terminals. With only 2 wires coming off the motor, which ones should be used?

Here's an example (no wiring instructions came with any of them):

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=090-488

the image shows 2 of the three connection terminals.

My initial connection strategy:
1. replace existing Hurst with Project Motor (looks like an easy swap; have nylon connectors as well as the original screws)
2. insert the capacitor in the metal housing in the plinth; just wire the motor to the capacitor then to the switch
3. use the existing power switch
4. use the existing power cord; remove the plug and install the 2.1mm female connector
5. connect the speedbox to the turntable cable and cross my fingers.

[JXO]

This is a switching connector. Get a spare plug and put it in. Then test with a ohmmeter which two connections are actually connect to the plug, and which way round they are. If you are unsure about this, I would not proceed any further!

Regards

Dave

thanks Dave. I will use this:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdet ... 50&scqty=1

this may be a non-switching connector:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=090-481

I assume I need to confirm which terminal is connected to the center pin and which one to the outer rim; wire those 2 and ignore the third terminal connector.

[rkay5]

You only had us 2 of the tad use a multi-meter to find out witch ones. I had once used connenctor of that type but I don't remeber witch one you don't use. Robert

[JXO]

Update:

Finally got the table back from the dealer. Removed the old Hurst motor and attempted to install the ProJect.

2 things:

1. Pulley: the drive shaft on the motor is ever-so-smaller than the Hurst. As a result the pulley does not grip tight on the shaft.

2. Motor: there is a raised piece of plastic surrounding the drive shaft on the top plate of the motor. The plastic is round and notched. Probably designed to fit like a puzzle piece and lock into the top plate of the ProJect tables. The circular plastic piece is just a little larger in diameter than the motor hole in the top plate of the AR. As a result, the motor does not sit flush against the top plate causing i) the shaft not to protrude enough and ii) the motor does not screw in securely.


I assume the motor hole can be enlarged (with a file or otherwise) and I can get a ProJect or another pulley that will fit better on the motor shaft.

Neither seems fatal; just more complications. The wiring seems straight forward enough-- just insert the new capacitor between the motor and the switch and bypass the other stuff in the plinth and covert the existing power cable by removing the power plug and wiring in a 2.1 mm female plug.

[JXO]

I need a tool recommendation. If I try to increase the diameter of the motor hole in the top plate by a small amount, what should I use to do so?

[JXO]

From what to what ?

Dave

I am just guessing. The diameter of the hole is about 1/2". The diameter needs to be increased by a few mm. So I need to enlarge the circle very slightly.

If I was really precise, I would also need to whittle 3 very small notches around the perimeter of the enlarged hole.

[Ernie L]

From what to what ?

Dave

I am just guessing. The diameter of the hole is about 1/2". The diameter needs to be increased by a few mm. So I need to enlarge the circle very slightly.

If I was really precise, I would also need to whittle 3 very small notches around the perimeter of the enlarged hole.

reamer

[JXO]

Ouch. that looks painful.

Is it manual or do they get installed on a power drill?

[JXO]

Whoa!! 1/2 inch is big for a motor shaft!! A hand reamer like Ernie suggests is the best. But I'm getting worried about this project?

Regards

Dave

Hand reaming will work on the METAL top plate? The hole is larger than the drive shaft to accomodate a slightly raised (circular) piece on the top of the motor (surrounding the shaft at the base) to keep it secure (locked) to the top plate. For a description of a similar exercise (and a picture of the motor hole and a circular file) see:

http://www.turntable-power-supply.com/t ... ntable.htm

The project is a little more involved than I hoped. I ordered a 33/45 pulley from Pro-Ject that will fit the motor. A little bigger hole is all that is needed. The motor wiring should be simple and, with a little luck, the platter will spin at the right speed (I am a little nervous though about the speed).

[rkay5]

Jim JXO,
Did you not get the pm from me as I said in it I have a pulley for a Pro-ject motor that I got with a SpeedBox not a mkII modal. What is the size of the AR 45rpm pulley as the pulley I have is 15.75mm if the AR pulley is bigger the Pro-ject will not work, it also bigger size pulley 21.5mm that for 78rpm playback. Robert