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More....3 spring Thorens, Linn and AR stuff...

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More....3 spring Thorens, Linn and AR stuff...

Postby user510 » 10 Jan 2004 06:41

Image

:D I've got parts...:!:

I knew going into this project that I would be needing some stronger springs to support my rigid subchassis frame. Not sure if LP12 springs will be enough to carry the load. Don't know their rating. Total load = 12.5 lbs. If my idea works the weight will be distributed equally between the three springs.

Much more info at link here: http://www.theanalogdept.com/user510's_td150_mkii.htm All the recent work is at the end of the page, there.

There is a big however...... however. Since I haven't been able to easily find a selection of progressively stronger or weaker springs in this type I have been looking for alternatives at suspending this frame. I came up with this:

Image

I'm using the standard Thorens large rubber grommets with a short length of automotive heater hose between them. This makes an isolation grommet in place of the springs. So far I'm thinking this is it and that "I don't need no steenking springs" anymore. Sound is quite good this way. Plenty of bass but with a really good focus on fine detail. It's early. Still listening.

'just workin' inside the box. :roll:

-Steve
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Postby michaelwnz » 10 Jan 2004 23:57

Great job Steve !

Kiss those nasty boing boings goodbye !

:D

You appear to be going down the path of VPI who first used springs on their TNT, then moved to Navcom pucks and finally to sophisticated airbladders.

:wink:

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Postby user510 » 11 Jan 2004 02:12

Hi.
Yeah. Even though the original goal is to achieve best possible equilibrium in a spring suspension, the grommets seem to be distracting me from this holy grail quite strongly. Music is good off this tt without springs. :P

It does occur to me that those grommets could well be small air springs. Nifty idea, but a complication. Wonder if that would be worth the effort. You'd have to keep a small hand pump near the tt. Probably need a pressure gage to stay informed about system integrity, etc. Sounds fun... :)
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more spring talk

Postby colclarke » 23 Jan 2004 17:09

Hi Steve - good thread and your site is A1 IMO (Respect!)

The work you have done so far is inspirational to a Thorens fan like me, and I for one am very pleased you are now working on a 150.

Just twopennorth FWIW

Spring Talk

The TP13 arm weighs about 250gm and I think you have to stay very close to this weight to be successful with a replacement using the original springs. I have seen dealer fitted replacement arms that included a small weight mounted under the front end of the armboard to even up the extra weight on the two right hand springs. This makes sense but still has a small maximum range IMO.

I have a set of (used) Linn springs and they are definitely stiffer than the Thorens although oddly shorter, perhaps they are tired I don't know. They would support a greater total weight for sure.

The Non-Spring 150

You have made a new sub chassis that looks great, looks like a 150 bearing - are they removable?

You have now done away with springs and life is good - radiator hose is on my shopping list. My first reaction is what other materials with varying degrees of squashability (??whaat!!) could be used?

As it is you have a machine that will be much easier to tweak and has less lateral problems.

Thinking about the lateral movement - didn't Linn use the magic dressing of the arm cable as a stabiliser, acting like a fourth spring against the pull of the belt?

The direction you've taken has great possibilities IMO, and who knows where it will end? The journey is fun already.

Colin
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Postby user510 » 23 Jan 2004 19:50

Hi Colin.

springs:
The TP13 weight is a good indicator to the problems I have observed when arm swapping this table. The SME arm I'm using at the moment is nearly twice the weight of the TP13. Small wonder the third spring is nearly coil bound even when using the standard subchassis frame. That dealer who was using counterweights to even out the loading was on the right path imo.

Over at Vinyl Asylum a fellow inmate (Win) offered to take some poundage readings on two different types of Lp12 springs he has. Not having available a spring compression tester I suggested that a simple postage scale and ruler could be put to use by simply compressing the spring against the scale with one hand while observing deflection with a ruler and the weight reading on the scale. In the USA spring rates are measured in lbs per inch of deflection.

Win got 5.5 lbs for an early Lp12 spring. He also measured the free length at 40 mm. (1.57 in) He also had a set of later Cirkus springs that have an measured longer free length of 43-44mm (1.7 in) The Cirkus springs measured a whopping 7 lbs to compress 1 inch.

That was useful information as I was able to calculate that with the Cirkus springs I could achieve a natural frequency of just under 4 hz, and the earlier Lp12 springs would have been un-usable with the subchassis frame that I have. Btw I had measured 4.25 lb / in with the original TD150 springs using a postal scale at my location. Free length 1.7 in. Primitive measuring techniques but still useful.

non springs:
why go back to springs when this sounds so good...! I haven't yet tried this with a standard subchassis frame so I can't comment on that result.

I haven't tried other isolator materials but if I did I would not look for more compliance than already exists in the current assembly. I think the idea is to provide resonance damping while maintaining a solid, unmoving base for the platter / arm to ride upon. To maintain a constant distance between motor pulley and the driven platter. Solid is better but isolation from motor vibes is needed. I should probably note that this TD150 motor I have runs very quietly. More so than either of the TD160s I have.

The current assembly of heavy grommets with a fiber reinforced length of automotive hose serving as a standoff may have some merit as a damped mounting. Background noise is quite low out of my speakers and the frame is completely quiet all over when probing with a stethoscope while running the platter. Isolation is very good in this assembly. I'd speculate that a solid piece of rubber in roughly the same shape configuration might actually be less effective as a damper. Of course parts like these aren't commonly available so I'd be looking at casting my own pieces if further experimentation is wanted. At the moment I am inclined to not try sorbothane (too compliant). Polyurethanes can be cast in different compounds of firmness. That seems like an option. Or various media filled isolator pad designs come to mind.

The bearing:
I used a bearing out of a spare TD160 subchassis frame that I have. That TD160 was less than perfect cosmetically but the bearing was in good condition. BTW the 160 bearing is the same as used in the TD150 and also the Mk II TD125. Dimensionally identical.

This bearing pressed out without harm but took considerable force and took some plating out of the subchassis bore with it. I used thick aluminum blocks with holes sized for the bearing to pass through and a vise as a press. This removed the bearing without damage but did distort the sheetmetal of the 160 pan. However the 160 pan was easily restraightened by pressing between panels and could now be reused. The bearing would need to be pressed back in, also with some force. It appears that Thorens used an adhesive in addition to an interference fit between bearing and pan.

I'm not suggesting that people start doing this to their old turntables. It's called canibalism...! Sacrificing some so that others of the same species might go on living. Horrible, just horrible...! :twisted: My optimum solution would have been to machine a new, and more massive, bearing housing for the new frame. Budget constraints modified that plan to using available parts.

Tonearm cables and their tension against a sprung subchassis:
This is a consideration when tuning the suspension. I don't know how the Linnies did it but with a Thorens the issue is fairly well taken care of with the standard tonearm. Change arms, however, and you now have this new influence of the tonearm cable working against the action of the suspended subchassis. It does seem that careful arrangement could serve to counter the influence of the elastic drive belt. A kind of equilibrium could be achieved. Very, very tweaky stuff. ....and all this trouble and effort because of springs..... Nice to be rid of 'em.

BTW, sound is very, very good. No turning back.

-Steve
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thanks

Postby colclarke » 23 Jan 2004 23:33

Steve

Thanks for that insight. The spring data will be useful for anyone looking to follow that route.

I think I’m gonna miss the bounce, but I am certainly going to try the non-spring setup, albeit with a standard chassis. No tears arm changing, no complicated setup routines and great sound. Who could resist?

BFN

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Postby user510 » 24 Jan 2004 00:19

Hi Colin.
I'd be interested in learning of your results. I think others have tried this but perhaps not with exactly the same design of isolator mount.

-Steve
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Postby michaelwnz » 24 Jan 2004 12:26

user510 wrote:Tonearm cables and their tension against a sprung subchassis:
This is a consideration when tuning the suspension. I don't know how the Linnies did it but with a Thorens the issue is fairly well taken care of with the standard tonearm. -Steve


Whole Linn sub-cults have arisen thanks to the tyranny of the Linn P-clip.
There were even a few who insisted that the P-clip needed to be connected even when using an arm like the Well Tempered which does not trail an arm cable from it's nether regions.

40 French insults in the direction of Glasgow !

Brushing aside all the all the mumbo jumbo dressing the P-clip so that it did not interfere with the Linn sub-chassis wasn't all that difficult.

As you say tweaky stuff for boffins.

:P

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French Insults

Postby user510 » 24 Jan 2004 18:38

After having viewed the movie "The Matrix" and its sequels, I can now envision the profundity of a French insult. Greatly enjoyed that Merolingian character, his flamboyant profanity and especially his consort.

My rule of thumb:
If I can't apply common sense, I'll start searching for it.

-Steve
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Postby WAPFU » 24 Jan 2004 21:07

Greetings,
I'm enjoying this thread.
FWIW I have just replaced my springs on the TD125 Mrk 2 with LP12 , as I figured the old ones were worn, (the lp12's seem to be a lot spongier and softer to the harder thorens) and found the same problem with leveling the Chassis, as I originally had. A 4 oz fishing sinker on the arm boardheld by blue tack did wonders for leveling, (lifting that floating end by the on/off switch), which through reading this thread gave me the insperation to try.
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Postby mosin » 24 Jan 2004 23:36

As to the Linn springs, there are two types. Which did you use?
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more weights

Postby colclarke » 25 Jan 2004 02:59

Here again

Just to add to the data of arm weights re Thorens, my 160 TP16 arm weighs a tad over 400gms – this includes the little arm board and the lifting mechanism.

When we add the 180gm 150 armboard to the 250gm TP13 we get 430gm.

Kitchen scales measurements fair enough, but I think they show that Thorens were keeping within close weight limits for the 2 decks.

The data on Steve's site re sub-chassis weights also brings the 160 in slightly lighter - implication is with the same springs the 160 has a bit more leeway for extra arm weight.

Spring position on the chassis could have an effect here also, and again on Steve's site its clear the 160 is different so maybe that accounts for the weight difference. Doh!

Just musing.

Colin
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Postby WAPFU » 25 Jan 2004 03:33

Hi Mosin,
Asked for Linn Lp12 Springs and Gromets from a Linn Dealer, and thats what they supplied me. They have been ground flat top and bottom and have a blackish colour - If there's a difference- more than one LP12 spring - ummmm- didn't know. Compression is easier than the original Thorens springs, and thickness appears thinner. Seem to do the trick.
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Springs, bounce etc.

Postby Simcha » 03 Feb 2004 22:37

For what it's worth, I had so much trouble getting symmetrical vertical bounce in restoring my TD166II (which included adding mass to the inner platter) that I hooked up an old belt from the bearing shaft housing underneath(as high as I could get it to avoid torque) to the corner of the plinth in a direct line from the drive belt, with light tension, as an opposing
force. It made adjusting the springs much easier and so far I don't sense a "down side". But certainly "springless" has appeal to me also!
I would be fun to try to measure degree of acoustic transmission for the various alternate suspension set ups and material, from the base to the top of platter or mat, and also the resonant frequency. Is there a transducer that we could sweep low frequency sound/vibrations fed to the base and watch for an "excited platter" similair to the test record approach to measuring cartridge/ arm resonance? Seems this might be easier than trying to calculate given all the variable and hard to determine parameters.
Simcha (also in the Asylum) and AKA Colin just to confuse things!
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