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Dual tonearm question

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Dual tonearm question

Postby jacksonwalker » 01 Aug 2012 13:51

I am looking to replace the tonearm on my Dual 1226. As I was cleaning and lubing it recently, I noticed that somehow the head had been bent. And now it appears the wiring may be broken inside the tonearm tubing.
My question is should I just replace it with an original 1226 tonearm, or go for something better? I would like to get the best sounding replacement possible, but I do not know if this turntable is worth a big investment.
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Re: Dual tonearm question

Postby 13oots2 » 01 Aug 2012 21:07

The Dual arm appears to be of semi automatic design and is integrated into the turntable. It would require a significant amount of work to fit and properly mount a different tonearm. Best bet would be to try to rewire the arm or find an identical replacement.
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Re: Dual tonearm question

Postby vlamofoon » 01 Aug 2012 21:50

Heads (except metal ones) of most Dual Tonearms deform overtime due to the stress of the cartridgeholder. With use of a Mirror placed on a FLAT! record you can align the head perfect again with the aid of a small (bled 1) Screwdriver through a little hole specially drilled for this purpose in the chassis. If you pull of GENTLY! the platter you'll see this hole right beside the tonearmrest.

Why do you think the wiring is broken. Do you have Hum in one of the channels?
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Re: Dual tonearm question

Postby jacksonwalker » 01 Aug 2012 23:04

Thanks for the response, guys. Vlamofoon, the reason I suspect the wiring has gone bad in the tube of the arm, is that before I began my inspection, the sound was fine. But now, not only is there hum in all my cartridges (I have three that are for this turntable), but there is no signal coming from one of the wires.
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Re: Dual tonearm question

Postby vlamofoon » 02 Aug 2012 14:50

Have you tested all three cartridges with the same cartridge-holder, or do you have three?
Test with a multi-meter the suspected wire (white=L/red=R/blue=GL or green=GR) of the cartridge holder. Make sure the small connectors fit snug on the contacts comming out of the cartridges. If not, the best way to make them fit snug again is to put them each in a very, very small vise to narrow their gaps. I pair of pliers works too but you have to be very carefull. Next spray some contact cleaner on a piece of paper and rub the ends of the tiny contact-pins of the cartridge holder V E R Y C A R E F U L L Y clean. again be careful! Here everything can easely fall apart and it is a #-o job to put things together again.
All Wires okay? then proceed with this: clean with a cotton swab, dense with contactcleaner the silverplated contacts in the back of the tonearm-head. Do not forget the shield contact (a pointy piece of metal wich eliminates eventual Hum due to unsufficient shielding of metal cased cartridges like Stanton 681 EEE)
Next proceed with the wiring and contacts inside- and comming out of the player.
Detach the signal-cable from the recordplayer and test all with a multi-meter.
Wire okay? Then proceed:
Clean the surface of the soldered contacts of the tonearm wiring. Why? As you might know: electrical current of low voltage (mV! it is here) is almost only surface transported.
That is all there is to do. You can leave the short-contacts wich act as a noise canceller during record interchanging, and or automatic shutdown, out of the question.

If this all did not do the job, you may suspect very reasonably the tone-arm wiring itself, but from my 30 year or whatsoever experience with DUAL I can say it is rare that the tonearm-wiring on its own is the cause. or someone before you (you never now) has been fumbling around with you DUAL.

Succes!
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Re: Dual tonearm question

Postby jacksonwalker » 03 Aug 2012 00:31

vlamofoon, this has been a big help.

Yes, I have tested all of the three cartidges (Shure M91ED, Stanton 681A and a Grado G1+) with the same cartridge holder. Plenty of hum, and the multi-meter shows that the right channel has no signal.
This is a one-owner turntable (I bought it myself back in the mid 1970's), but I think the problem started when I noticed that I could not play records using the Stanton. And that is when I noticed that the tonearm head was bent downwards, so the Stanton could not clear the platter.
This leads me to believe that in correcting the bend in the tonearm head could have caused one of the wires to either break or disconnect.
I will keep at it, using your advice. Thanks again.
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Re: Dual tonearm question

Postby jacksonwalker » 23 Aug 2012 03:15

Quick update:

Found a dead but good condition Dual 1226 on ebay for 15 bucks, so made a bid of 15 dollars. Figured I could swap out that tonearm with my bad tonearm.
Well, no one else wanted it, so I got it. When it arrived, it looked in very good shape, but it would not power on. Before swapping out tonearms, I decided to take off the platter to check things out. It seems that the motor had seized up, and I was able to make it work by spinning it between my thumb and finger.
So then I took the motor apart and oiled it, and while I was at it, cleaned and lubed the entire mechanics. The damn thing works now better than my original Dual!
Thanks to every one on this forum for helping me out. It looks now like my original Dual (that I bought when it first came out in the early 1970's), is now my backup.
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