New looking for a project need some advice

[whtwter]

I know this is a very broad question but I am hoping I can get some responses to help me narrow my options. my goal is to have a great looking and sounding turntable without breaking the bank...I am very skilled in woodworking and have everything from MDF to ebony and rosewood on hand so that is the easy part! Tone arm, platter and motor and platter are where things get fuzzy. What should I be looking for to piece something together in the three to four hundred dollar range...budget tt's that have a 1 good piece that I can pair with another ect.
Like I said I have the wood and ability to do anything thrown at me with it so that is free just looking for the best bang for the buck on the rest.
The only thing I have narrowed out at this point is direct drive.

Is 3-400 doable? I know this is a broad question but the more I read the more options come available and the more I need direction!

Thanks, Chris

[Squiffything]

Hi Chris
Have had the same dilemma meself. Looking through the various posts on here and other sights narrowed my choices down to a few stalwarts but I was more for the belt driven rather than direct drive for the TT so not much use to you as for the tonearm for the money the SME 3009 was my preferred but a Linn Basik fell into my lap so for now that's what I'm going for Good luck with the project and welcome from another newbie

[whtwter]

Thanks for the response please pass on more...I may have not worded it well in my first post but I am looking at a belt drive direct is the only thing off the table at this point. The SME looks like it would blow my budget right off the bat but the linn looks to be in my price range.

[Timoteo]

How about you look for a Lenco L75 or L78 to turn into a project? They can be incredibly great sounding TTs & have unlimited options. You can stick with all stock parts & get great sound or make upgrades over time & improve upon what's already good. They are built around their famous idler drive system which is extremely stable & dependable. The platters are very heavy which makes for a very consistent speed. Paired up with a good solid plinth with mass they are loved & respected. I chose to rebuild an L75 & it was great fun & I'm really very impressed with the outcome. (pics are under my thread: My First Turntable Build)

There are some Lencos on EBay. Even some of the other models like the L60 or L85 are good & can be had for under $200.

[Squiffything]

As Tomoteo says the Lenco offers plenty of scope within your budget others might include an older Thorens TD160 One of the Rega Planers (an old Planet went on UK evilbay on a buy it now for £100 last week - I was gutted as I saw it and when I went back to get it it had been snapped up ) Not as good quality as the Lenco or Thorens but plenty of scope for your bucks.

[whtwter]

cabinet design going with option B

IMG_0799.JPG (123.28 KiB) Viewed 1581 times

cabinet started

Untitled.jpg (102.02 KiB) Viewed 1581 times

Thanks for the responses! I think I will be looking for a Lenco especially after seeing how Timoteo's turned out. Have to finish my current project 1st though...building a Wenge entertainment console with a down firing Rythmik 12 mounted in the center. Then I have a pair of Maggies getting rebuild and turntable next.

[duficity]

I hope you dont intend to place the turntable on top of this cabinet. Subwoofer vibrations and turntables dont mix well.

[bpbutler]

Chris,

I'm just about to embark on the same kind of project. I had originally intended to build belt drive, but I found a couple of Pioneer DD motors from the PL-200/300/400 series. The specs on these motors looks pretty good. I think I've figured out the connections and I'm going to try later today to see if I can get them to spin up.

For tonearm, I think I'm going to start with the jelco 250. It's relatively easy to find (even new), can be had for less than Ft Knox, and it looks like a decent tonearm. If everything goes well, I might consider an upgrade. The Black Widow kind of has my eye as a low-mass option. They don't look easy to find.

What are your thoughts on subchassis (not the plinth)? I had originally thought I would do a steel frame subchassis (I've got some friends with welders) suspended in a wood plinth, essentially a classic turntable design. But now I'm thinking I might build the whole subchassis from wood, and just suspend it on spring-loaded feet, kind of analogous to 80's era slabs. I'm just worried if wood has some undesirable property (like warping over time) that would make the platter/tonearm interface unstable. I would think the damping quality of wood would exceed steel.

[whtwter]

Duficity...I plan on putting the turntable on it's own shelf away from and isolated from the vibrations of the subwoofer but thanks for the advice anyway I did put new in the title and you never know how new!
Bpbutler...as far as the subchassis I do not know I am still learning as well but am open to input from others on your question if anyone has a answer for you.

I am just about finished with the cabinet and have the speakers done so I am on the lookout for a TT and am sure I will have a few questions when I get this underway.

Cheers, Chris

[cats squirrel]

a Lenco (75,78,88,99) would be my suggestion, but as you are in the US, a 60Hz version is required. Although the speed is adjustable, getting 33.3 on a 50Hz version running at 60Hz puts the idler wheel on the transition point (a nasty little angle on the cone spindle), so not helpful.

Another suggestion would be a Rega belt drive. These can be bought for little money, or bits can be accumulated. However, speed variation with the plastic sub platter means changing for a metal one. A Rega arm would suit well, although a Linn would also work.

I would stay clear of direct drive, second hand, anyway. If something goes wrong with the electronics, you're buggered! At least rubber band drives and idlers are easy to fix.

Real wood may not be the best material to make the plinth with, might I suggest some reading on the subject.

[bpbutler]

I would stay clear of direct drive, second hand, anyway. If something goes wrong with the electronics, you're buggered! At least rubber band drives and idlers are easy to fix.

This is a consideration, but I have 2 motors, and both of them work great. They're not quite the same (one is quartz referenced, the other uses an RC oscillator with pitch adjustment), but they're interchangeable. Plus, the info in the Pioneer service manual is pretty detailed about the theory of operation. I expect I can do at least some rudimentary troubleshooting. If the ICs go out, though, you're right, I'm hosed, since there's basically no chance of finding Pioneer proprietary ICs, even on ebay.

One key I discovered is the motor really needs the platter it was designed for, or at least one with nearly the same angular momentum. I started at first with a lightweight platter, and it almost worked, but I could see the PLL cycle-slipping both on an o-scope and by looking at the strobe marks. I added some quarters around the edges, at which point it locked right up. So, I found the proper platter on ebay, and now it looks great. Based on my o-scope measurement, I'm getting much better than the rated 0.025% W/F.

Of course, I'm sure there are those who would discount this measurement since the o-scope is a digital scope (oh the horror!!!).

[whtwter]

"Real wood may not be the best material to make the plinth with, might I suggest some reading on the subject. "

That is my biggest problem the more I read the more confusing it gets...I have read tons and was thinking a wood or veneered plinth hollowed out with lead or sand as ballast. I read your page and another that go into resonance and so on this morning so I will have to look more at that but I want a wood plinth on the exterior but am fully open to materials for the body. I am leaning toward a Lenco at this point I have heard the base model Rega and did not care for it but cannot pinpoint what it was I didn't like.

[G Doggett]

I would suggest a Thorens TD150 or TD160. They have a good bearing and heavy belt driven platter system that could form the basis of a DIY turntable. Your choice as whether you retain the sprung suspension or mount it solid. The original motor works fine or you could upgrade this also.
Graham.

[whtwter]

I am getting more confused once again! I am looking at a ROK Rondine JR L-34 and see it is a idler dive. I did a search and could not find a definition of what that is. Would it be belt direct drive or something different and is there any drawbacks to this design? I have what looks like a good deal so a quick education would be appreciated and in the mean time I will continue to use the search function to see what I can dig up.

Thanks and cheers, Chris