I am finally getting good at my wood glue technique and have the accuracy to get the lead in and lead outs perfect and to stop on a dime before the label.
My first trials nearly made me think it wasn't worth the time and hassle. Still, I did discover some things that others may want to try:
1. If you fail and leave "too thin to peel" residue portions, you COULD reglue and start again, but if too minor a tiny spot to be worthwhile, try rinsing the glue spots with COLD COLD water: it REALLY made it peel easier. If on the lead out, you may now want to try the Jerry Seinfeld definition of dry cleaning... scrape it off with your fingernail.
2. Combining glue- I posted in another thread a "Three Bears" story- that I bought Titebond I which was too thin (leaving residue), then I bought Titebond III which works but is a maybe too strong peel (and not as cost effective). So as not to waste the type I, start with it, then add type III and business card it all flat... maybe I esssentually made Titebond II.
My process: I rested records on drinking glasses laid out an old towel (to catch any drips) that were drying glue on the face up side. When they were dry enough to flip without dripping, I put a shaped piece of wax paper over my rubber mat and glued side 2; I have several drying at the same time on the drinking glasses with both sides glued.
Now for a question/theory- Has anyone tried this time saver: Placing a record on TOP of a freshly glued record in waiting to sandwich them (like an Oreo, haha!)? If lined up perfectly, and the glue was thick enough, could one later peel two records at the same time or is one asking for endless small peels? Would faster drying time exist in some way by having a record on top?
