HELP, my Micro Seiko BL 51 runs too fast!!!

[Santalover]

Just acquired this beautiful machine and can't take my eyes off it. However there's the problem that it runs too fast - around 10-15%. As I have a Techinis 1210 next to the Micro Seiko, I know by fact that it runs more than 10% too fast, even when I've pitched the Micro Seiki as low as it gets, which should be 3%. So we are looking at aprox. 15 % too fast! What kind of problem am I looking at and what solutions do you advice? I don't really have any money so I'm hope to be able to fix it myself. Need to do something very soon, as I can hear it sounds very nice but I can't wait to hear how my records sounds at a prober speed.
Please help me all you clever HiFi heads

[jc_the_trucker]

The cheapest way to fix a fast running belt drive is to use masking tape around the outside of the driven pully (under the platter), or in the case of rim drive units, around the outside of the platter itself. I'm not sure of your table's exact arrangement, that's why I put both on here. Add the tape one layer at a time until the speed is correct.

There may also be some internal adjustment you can do, but as I'm not familiar with your table, I can't speak to that. You can check the library here to see if there's a service manual which would likely have that information. And if not, maybe someone else on here would know.

Hope this helps!

[Santalover]

The cheapest way to fix a fast running belt drive is to use masking tape around the outside of the driven pully (under the platter), or in the case of rim drive units, around the outside of the platter itself. I'm not sure of your table's exact arrangement, that's why I put both on here. Add the tape one layer at a time until the speed is correct.

There may also be some internal adjustment you can do, but as I'm not familiar with your table, I can't speak to that. You can check the library here to see if there's a service manual which would likely have that information. And if not, maybe someone else on here would know.

Hope this helps!

Nice one - never thought of this. But this is not really a solution for me as it would ruin the beautiful object it is, as the belt runs outside the platter. Thanks a lot for the tip, but will need another one that actually deals with the cause to the problem. Unfortunately there's not a service manual, only a users manual that doesn't mentions this problem. Any Micro Seiki heads out there, that has any idea how could fix my newfound love? S

[keiko5]

I'm also a Santa lover, so here is my take. Look at the Micro Seiki BL51 schematics on the VE site. You will see two resistors, R7 and R8. If I'm not mistaken, these are variable resistors and can be trimmed to adjust the speed. They usually look like a round bit of plastic (sometimes surrounded by a ring of metal) with either a slot or a cross that will accept a small screwdriver. They would be soldered to the circuit board and may even be labeled. Find R8 as this is the one for 33rpm. Put your pitch control in its center position and then rotate the resistor slowly with a small screwdriver. The speed should change up or down. Hopefully you can trim R8 enough to get 33rpm. You may also have to trim R7 as your 45 may also be out of spec.

Kevin

[phonomac]

Hello there,
I agree with Kevin that these variable resistors (pots, potentiometers)can help you. I would also include R9, which is the main speed control, under the knob on top of the deck, and the power/speed switch (SW DP3T on the schematic) also under the control lever on the top of the deck.

Get some Deox-it Contact Cleaner and Deoxit Fader Lube. Clean the switch contacts and the pots, then apply some Fader Lube to the pots. Set the main speed control to its middle position (i.e. not + or -), then adjust R7 and R8. From the schematic it doesn't look as if there will be any interaction between 33 and 45, but as Kevin says always go back and check the one you did first after you have done the second one.

I hope this helps - if you have any problems let us know and we will work with you to get this beautiful t/t runing properly again!

regards

Angus

[Santalover]

Thanks a lot you guys. I'll try to open it this weekend and see if what you say make sense. If not, I'm happy you are ready to help me further. Sounds like I should be able to do this reparation almost with a screwdrivers only, which is very good as my engineering skills are pretty poor. Wonder if I have to take off the tonearm. Will probably find out when I try to open it. Sounds pretty simple with the R7 and R8, but I didn't really understood how I should proceed with the R9 or SW DP3T. Should I try to adjust these if the adjustment of R7/ R8 doesn't work? Or try to adjust all of them at a time? Seems weird to adjust all of them at a time. As I said my skills in this field are pretty poor and my questions are probably pretty stupid, sorry... As for the "Deox-it Contact Cleaner" and "Deoxit Fader Lupe" - this is cleaning supply I can buy in a HiFi shop, right? Could it just be that I need to clean the switch contacts and pots and not adjust with a scewdriver? Should the cleaning be the first step? Again, sorry for asking stupid questions - new to HiFi though I've been collecting records half my life. So stupid I never paid attention to good sound before now! In addition I know my girl friend will love the beautiful machine once she returns from her study trip in the states. I really want it work for the Welcome Home party;)) Once again - thanks a lot, Stefan

[Cyreg]

Motor running on 50 Hz but actually is 60 Hz?
Or wrong size pulley regarding 50/60Hz?

[josephazannieri]

Yo Santalover:

If you are running a turntable designed for 60 Hz power at 50 Hz, the turntable will run about 16% SLOW. If you are running a turntable designed for 50 Hz power at 60 Hz, it will run about 16% FAST. I do not know if you have 50 Hz or 60 Hz power in Denmark, so you will have to figure out which problem you will be likely to have depending on where you bought the turntable from and what kind of power you have. Of course, your problem may be something else, but a 16% difference points to a power supply frequency problem.

And good luck from that old high frequency guy (60 Hz here),

Joe Z.

[phonomac]

Hello Stefan,
The problem is that the speed is set by the total resistance in the section of the circuit for whichever speed you have selected. So dirty (= high resistance) contacts on the R8 pot, and/or the switch which is in series with R8, and/or R9 which is also in series can all cause the wrong speed at 33rpm. Similarly R7, the switch and R9 control 45rpm.

Cleaning the switch is straightforward, since you just need to apply some contact cleaner and operate the switch 20 - 30 times. For R7, R8 and R9, the technique is to apply cleaner and then move the pot through its entire range so that the moving contact in the pot wipes across the whole of the resistance element inside the pot. After you do this, just set all three, R7, R8, and R9 to the middle of their range and adjust 33rpm with R8 and 45rpm with R7. Leave R9 in the middle, and you will then have +/- 3% on 33 and 45 afterwards.

Good thought from the others on frequency/pulley. Denmark is 50Hz, so it shouldn't be a 60Hz motor since that would be too slow, and likewise a 60Hz pulley running on a 50Hz supply should also be slow.

You should be able to get Deoxit products from a hifi shop. They are also available on eBay if you use that.

And remember that there is no such thing as a stupid question. You asked because you didn't know, not because you are unintelligent

regards

Angus

[Ottermel]

Also,
If possible, use a plastic tipped screwdriver not a metal one to avoid any electrical/current issues (if it's not plugged in for speed check, then it should be OK).

[MR F]

Sorry about your troubles. I have no advice, bumping to hopefully help you get a solution. I also have a BL-51, and it is the best table I have ever owned. I hope you can get this sorted out.

[Rick_BOU812]

I know this is an old thread but I had a speed issue with my 51 and rebuilt the power supply...it is a DC motor....I originally rebuilt it with capacitors higher in value than stock as that was what I had on hand...that didn't work as I could not get the speed right...I replaced the electrolytics with the proper values and it worked properly then.