Sl-7 Disassembly Problem

[fscl]

Pictures from Tecnics SL-7 Help topic along with remedy along with tonearm cue rate tweak:

Thank you Alec124c41 for your answer.
Here is now photo of the lift assembly.
I hope many answers now.

[album]16949[/album]
Franck.

Answer:

Hello. From view of photograph you attach is missing small metal ring clip this to attach to channel in end part of brass fluting section < show as to right side in photograph >. This small metal ring clip attach after outer metal sleeve place over fluting section. Is also requirement for small quantity silicone fluid make application to fluting before assemble. When assemble is necessary to place spring with small hook over spigot shaft and make position of straight section from spring so as go to top of tonearm and point to cartirdge end of tonearm.

Shoji writes:

Is also requirement for small quantity silicone fluid make application to fluting before assemble.

Good to see you here Shoji and posting. Hope all is well with your friends and family in Japan....

With regards to the post above, does the silicone fluid effect / dampen the tonearm drop speed What is the recommended viscosity?

Thank you in advance for comments.

Fred

Hello Fred. All is well with family. Not so well with some friends at certain places.

For question fluid assist dampening and for reduce kick back when tonearm in raising or lowering motion. Make use of medium viscocity for fluid. Is possible to obtain 2 viscocity and make nice mix to obtain nice balance for dampen and motion.

Fred

[mscili]

Just a little new (for me) info about how to get the SL-7 to its maximum musical potential...

I have the SL-7 with the original EPC-P22 cartridge with new Jico SAS stylus. It was sounding a bit over-analytical, somehow edgy and sometimes just harsh (with sibilance and sometimes tracking problem in loud, high frequency passages). I had to put a book on it while playing, because the lid was not "catched" correctly on the left side. Yesterday I noticed that the lid could have been moved some 1 mm to the right... And I did it. Now it looks perfectly centered, when checking on the back the position of the two metal parts where the four screws are. And... Guess what? Not only it stays correctly closed by itself, it sounds wondeful!!!

I would stress this points:
- check that the lid is correctly placed, maybe experiment a bit moving it very slightly to the right or to the left (loosen the four big screws on the back side of the player and tight them again in the new position);
- check that the table is perfectly level (also very important!).

I go listening to some records...

Grretings from Basel,
M.

[fscl]

Cross post for tonearm drive rope replacement:

viewtopic.php?f=79&t=41374

Fred

[denm3]

Hey guys, great info here. I dusted off my old SL-7 that I have not had plugged in for about 15 years. I have kept it in a plastic bag on the basement shelf for many moons.

I had the same issue with no tone arm movement. to fix it, I had great success without doing much, I wanted to share my story.

I took the plexiglass cover off according to the service manual (thanks for that). I replaced the drive belt--(the little "O" ring rubber drive belt) with a 45 cent O ring from hardware store. this was a No Go. Next, I removed the drive belt, wound out the tone arm with the power off. I turned the power on and flicked the motor pulley ever so slightly, and viola! it started spinning like crazy. It was just frozen in place.

I put my 45 cent O ring drive belt on, and it works perfectly! woo hoo.

Thanks, I could not have done this without reading some of your posts.

[fscl]

snippage......

I turned the power on and flicked the motor pulley ever so slightly, and viola! it started spinning like crazy. It was just frozen in place.

I put my 45 cent O ring drive belt on, and it works perfectly! woo hoo.

Thanks, I could not have done this without reading some of your posts.

Stories like this just brings tears to my eyes......

Happy listening.....

Fred

[laurentvuillard]

THANKS,many Thanks for the contributors (and the service manual...). I've just brought back to life my 30yeras old SL7. I have just removed the top cover , moved the arm motor shaft gently with my finger and all seems well. In a few days I'll remove the seized grease with a (very) little bit of ethanol and re-coat slightly the gears. It is great to have it back in action!!

[laurentvuillard]

Thanks again for the info , I only 1) dissasembled the casing; 2) carefully moved the arm to unseize it and the SL7 now runs like a clock!

[monoethylene]

Great thread

I am in progress of restoring a SL-10, Ive got for less money. This includes deep cleaning of the whole unit as well as relubricating the gears and tonearm quide. Further I am in progress of recapping all boards. Last but not least I will change the belt.

to sum up, this thread is very helpful to find possible causes of errors.

Here are some pics



















More pics will follow

Have fun,

Philipp

[fscl]

Welcome to VE.....

Pictures look interesting however they are kind of small.....

Would it be possible to make them a bit bigger......

Appreciate it as I'm getting along in my years and I can't see as well as i did 30+ years ago.....

Fred

[jfgiovanni]

On dis-assembly of my SL-DL1 I found the tone arm guide rod to be mostly dry. I was able to wipe off a black-ish film that suggested that the guide rod had some type of lube applied at manufacture in a very small amount. Does anyone know if, or recommend to, put any kind of lube on the tone arm guide rod? The guide rod looks like its a lube impregnated steel, and if so it might not require added lube???

Quite surprisingly, when I opened up my lid, I found the worm and driven gears to be free of dried grease. I bought this new 1981 so I know it's never been apart...I guess I'll pat myself on the back for carefully storing this unit for 20 some years so that the grease never dried out. The tone arm drive rope appears to be intact but has a greyish grease or lube of some sort all over it, glad I don't have to mess with that mess! But the tone arm drive belt has stretched to about 3 inches in length, where the belt is suppposed to be 2.6 inches in length, hence my no-tone-arm-movement issue. I'm just now waiting for the new belt to arrive to get this table turning vinyl again...

[monoethylene]

Welcome to VE.....

Pictures look interesting however they are kind of small.....

Would it be possible to make them a bit bigger......

Appreciate it as I'm getting along in my years and I can't see as well as i did 30+ years ago.....

Fred

Hej Fred,

Sorry for the little pics. Thought these would be larger. Nevertheless, here is the link to the gallery:

http://www.abload.de/gallery.php?key=r0vygViU

I hope this works. Concerning the pics I have a question relating an electrolytic. There is one at the drive board named C219. Following photo will show this cap:



It is the second from bottom next to the IC. It is not mentioned in the service manual and not drawn on the schematic. First Ive put a 33uF inside because this value was left when compared to the parts list. Then I removed it again because I didnt find it on the schematic.

Any ideas of the value??

Right now the platter is moving too fast in 33 RPM position and the tonearm doesnt move at all. When I am turning the gear of the tonearm manually and then switch on the power the tonearm is getting back to the start position.

A little bit crazy right now but I will try it again with the cap

[fscl]

Hej Fred,

Sorry for the little pics. Thought these would be larger. Nevertheless, here is the link to the gallery:

http://www.abload.de/gallery.php?key=r0vygViU

I hope this works. Concerning the pics I have a question relating an electrolytic. There is one at the drive board named C219. Following photo will show this cap:

.....snipped.....

It is the second from bottom next to the IC. It is not mentioned in the service manual and not drawn on the schematic. First Ive put a 33uF inside because this value was left when compared to the parts list. Then I removed it again because I didnt find it on the schematic.

Any ideas of the value??

Right now the platter is moving too fast in 33 RPM position and the tonearm doesnt move at all. When I am turning the gear of the tonearm manually and then switch on the power the tonearm is getting back to the start position.

A little bit crazy right now but I will try it again with the cap

, hi MEG <---- presuming the G....

Anyway, for years, been trusting that the Japanese and their service manual were fastidious, however, really having a hard time trying to find C219. Is this the flat disc cap bent slightly towards IC 201 (or C217?)..... Or is it the electrolytic which resides right next to the silk screened label (C partially blocked)..... Either way, cannot locate C219 on any of the diagrams or parts list.... They both look intact.... so I'm wondering why you've zeroed in on this cap..... Then there is also the possibility that the silk screening is off.... Reminds me of "as built" drawings.....sometimes what has been installed in reality is far from what's spec'd on the drawings.....

One thing for sure, it guarantees job security.....

Haven't touched my SL-10 in a while, when I opened her up, found a leaky electrolytic, so will have to be replaced along with providing ground to the left / blue white tonearm leads...... but don't hold your breath as there are easier tts to fix / refurb or newer challenges and I've got a bunch of working linears.

Right now preparing to work on a more parts (thanks to USPS) parts DL1 with a broken tonearm drive rope..... Never done one before since the other linears arrived OK. Recommendations on replacement on this thread suggest the use of tuner drive cord, however, if dimensions are correct, seems too thick, so will experiment with 49 strand beading cord @ 0.024" and a bunch of beading cord crimps.....love the arts and crafts stores...... Brought the old rope / cord / cable with me to compare diameters.

Good luck with the cap ID, can you locate a / the C218? physically on the board?, I'm guessing perhaps it was mislabeled.....

Fred and thanks to the link to the pictures.....

[monoethylene]

Thanks for your reply. Actually it is the circled one shown in the pic:



Now I ve putted a 33uF inside and the platter rotated with normal speed but only 4 minutes or so and the nor the tonearm neither the platter turned

Right now I am deoxiting the switches and cleaned the LEDs on the PCB with alcohol.

Here are some more pics after recapping:





Have fun,

Philipp

What do you mean with silk screening??

[monoethylene]

I dont know what to do right now. When pressing the start switch the platter turns with high speed and I cannot move the tonearm, no cueing just nothing. I hope that the IC is okee...

Any ideas?

Philipp