Tonearm base removal

[ciderglider]

I have a Systemdek IIX, and I'm trying to replace the Linn Basik Plus arm with a Pro-ject 9cc. I've removed the old arm, but am having a bit of a struggle with the old arm base (by which I mean the metal collar into which the arm post fitted). I've removed the 3 bolts on the underside of the arm board which fixed the arm base to the arm board, but the arm base won't budge. Is there something I've missed? Or is it possible that the arm base has been glued to the arm board?

All suggestions gratefully received.

[JaS]

If the armboard is of the MDF variety it may well be stuck down, if not by actual glue. I've seen a few where the top surface has come away with the base leaving an unusable armboard. You could try a little releasing fluid/water/soap around the base just long enough to release the grip, or maybe a scalpel to tease the two apart? I'm not sure which method would be least damaging? It might be worth taking a look from underneath to see if it's just the stem that is tight in the hole? A light tap might free it without causing too much damage

Regards,
JaS

[ciderglider]

Thanks for the advice. Yes, the arm board is MDF. There is some space between the hole in the arm board and the stem of the arm base, so I think it must be the upper surface of the arm board that is stuck to the arm base. I tried to winkle the two surfaces apart with a modeling knife, but to no avail. I tried a pair of pipe grips (protecting the arm base with some rag) to twist the arm base, but still no dice! The arm board also seems to have become welded to the metal struts in the turn table, which neither helps nor inspires confidence.

I think anything more muscular is going to damage the arm base and/or arm board, so I'll re-attach the Linn arm for the time being, and think about a replacement turntable...

[JaS]

I think anything more muscular is going to damage the arm base and/or arm board, so I'll re-attach the Linn arm for the time being, and think about a replacement turntable...

Unfortunately damage to the side of the armboard that faces the sub-chassis is possible too, although the arm base itself should survive as long as you don't hit it with anything hard (a rubber mallet or a block of wood helps here). It isn't too difficult to DIY a new armboard if you have a drill and a jigsaw - I'm guessing this is the tear-drop shaped board?

Regards,
JaS

[bubba45]

Had the same thing happen with an IIX, a Systemdek Transcription and an armboard for an Ariston RD40. Seems like the paint used on these old MDF armboards somehow bonds to the metal of the arm-collar or subchassis.

As Jas says the armboard for a Systemdek is easy enough to make from MDF. I did it without a jigsaw so it can be done.

Does the 9CC not fit directly into the arm-collar of the Linn arm? They are the same mounting distance / template aren't they?

[sb11]

Having just changed my arm, The Linn base collar is also stuck on mine. I haven't tried to remove it yet as I fitted a new arm board drilled to Rega spec.

Stuart

[ciderglider]

Does the 9CC not fit directly into the arm-collar of the Linn arm? They are the same mounting distance / template aren't they?

I've not tried this. The Linn arm post has a groove in it where the VTA screw meets it, whereas the the 9cc has two VTA screws. So I don't think it would be a very elegant match.

I am reluctant to try removing the arm board and creating a new one, as this is probably beyond my woodworking skills to do this accurately. (The reason I got the 9cc arm was to avoid having to get a new armboard.) I'll keep an eye on ebay and see if one comes up.

[sb11]

Just got the collar off the arm board on mine. Undid the screws part way and tapped with a mallet. It does appear that the arm was glued on in three places around the screws. Removal did strip the paint off and the surface of the the MDF, but nothing that a bit off filler and some black paint wouldn't fix.

Regards

Stuart

[wobbleu]

I've had similar problems in the past too - and I've seen various comments by people on here recommending the use of white wood glue when fitting the arm/board.
And also to put araldite between the bearing and sub-chassis.

[ciderglider]

I've seen various comments by people on here recommending the use of white wood glue when fitting the arm/board.

I bought the Systemdek/Linn Basik combo about 25 years ago, long before internet the benign/malign influence of internet forums. But it's heartening to learn that I'm not alone in having this problem.

I do have a hot air blower (the sort of thing used for stripping paint). I wonder if this would be useful in releasing the tone arm base from the arm board?

[JaS]

I've seen various comments by people on here recommending the use of white wood glue when fitting the arm/board

No doubt the same folk who super glue there styli to their cartridges and plaster everything in rainbow foil

Regards,
JaS

[ciderglider]

The thought of ponying up the thick end of £1000 for a new t/t encouraged me to have another go at removing the Linn tonearm base. I took off the Systemdek's base plate, which gave me more room to work, and then used my trusty Sharkfin Japanese miniature crow bar to get the arm board off the Systemdek's chassis. A bit of brute force and ignorance then allowed the arm board to part from the tonearm base. The arm board wasn't too badly damaged in the process, so it could be reused. I've now got the Pro-ject 9cc arm installed, and it is a worthwhile improvement over the Linn arm.

[JaS]

Great news I haven't heard any of the recent Pro-ject arms but they certainly look the business.

Regards,
JaS

[brannigan]

Greetings to all!
This is my first post on Vinylengine, and as a newbie I'm really happy to have all you folks out there to draw upon for advice and so on. I recently won a Systemdek IIX on Ebay UK which I now have back home here in Canada. It came with the teardrop SME armboard installed, and I had the same problem removing it. The painted MDF had fused onto the subchassis too. Probably had never been removed since new. I have a stainless steel palette knife which is paper thin and flexible, so I was able to work it between the board and chassis bit by bit until I could pry it off. Some of the MDF stayed put so I scraped it off, sanded the chassis smooth again and repainted it flat black. I made a new armboard out of maple as I have a Micro Seiki MA-77 tonearm en route from Australia thanks again to Ebay.