how to polish strobe marks in platter

[jorsagon]

Hi,
would like to know what is the best way to polish the strobe marks in a garrard platter to looks like new? . thanks in advance

[Blue Angel]

Hi

You can use a dummy spindle made from engineering plastic. Clamp one end securely in a sturdy bench vise and slip the platter over the other end. Then, spin the platter by hand and use 3M sanding pads to sand off aluminium oxidation.

Very little sanding is needed to restore the markings.

Precautions are needed to prevent the platter coming off the spindle and crash to the ground.

ba

[jorsagon]

thanks for the information Blue Angel, will follow your advice. What grit do you recomends? looks like they come from 80 to 400.

[Blue Angel]

I use quite a coarse grit - probably 100 or 120. If you look closely at the markings, you will be able to judge the appropriate grit.

I am always a bit concerned to give this kind of advice as I have a well-equipped workshop and can turn a dummy plastic spindle on my lathe.

It should also be possible to use a sturdy piece of dowelling and turn the platter horizontally on a piece of chipboard - with the platter's edge overhanging the chipboard.

If you decide on this method, it is important not to press too hard on the sanding pad as this may damage the black paint.

Any other tips about this job anyone?

Good luck

ba

[jorsagon]

thanks for your explanation.

[Steerpike_jhb]

If you decide on this method, it is important not to press too hard on the sanding pad as this may damage the black paint.

My 301 platter is looking very grubby in the silver AND black areas. Do you think it might be good to aerolak it all over in black, and then use the sanding block method to expose the silver on the tips of the protruding strobe squares?

I imagine a very ridgid sanding block (or emery paper glued to wood) would be the best tool to use.

[Blue Angel]

I found black etch primer to be a good match for the original black paint. I have not yet needed to remove the black but if this is required, it should come off by using a wire brush - either handheld or rotary.

The reason for not pressing too hard on the 3M pads is obviously to prevent them from 'profiling' onto the black between the raised strobe markings.

I suppose it will be perfectly feasible to use one of those 'generic' sanding blocks - the rubber things with the curve and flat.

I like using the 3M pads though as they are very long lasting.

ba