Bearing Lubricant

[bauzace50]

Hi,
this subject has no probable controversy. I've had perfect results, at different times, with THREE different lubricants with the turntable's main bearing (where the platter rests and rotates).

(1) The factory-recommended "Slick 50" has worked well for me (available at most automotive parts stores).

(2) The "Turntable Lubricant" from "Once Turntable" manufacturer at http://www.onceanalog.com.au

(3) The "White Lithium Grease" from "CRC Industries, Inc." (available at local hardware store, Telephone 800-272-8963)

These three have been used on different years, after fully cleaning the previous lubricant. The Lithium Grease is currently at work since 2010. A MOST UNSCIENTIFIC TEST: the platter keeps on spinning for a full Minute and 36 Seconds after giving it an uncalibrated shove, without the drive belt.

These three lubricants have worked well, and I have no favorites, except that the "Once" brand is specifically developed for turntable bearings.

Happy VPI spinning,

bauzace50

[Tedrick]

For my HW-19 Mk IV, which has the old-style bearing well and spindle, I've used Slick 50 and Mobil 1 5W-30, both with excellent results. Both have been recommended at different times in the past by VPI.

On my Classic, which has the newer inverted bearing, I use VPI's "Magic Grease" which is nothing more than white lithium grease (I lucked into a tube on eBay for small money).

With both tables, I try to clean and re-lube about once every 6 months. For the HW-19, I remove the platter/spindle assembly, wipe off the spindle, and use multiple cotton swabs to dry up and clean out all of the old oil and any dirt or grunge from the bearing well. If you need to clean out any hardened, dried up oil or varnish, use lighter fluid. I then add 4 or 5 drops of new Mobil 1 to the bearing well and spread a thin layer on the surface of the spindle, and then reassemble. On the Classic, I wipe off all the old grease, being careful to remove and clean the bearing. Spread a small amount of new grease on top of the spindle and reinsert the bearing, then apply a bit more grease on top of the bearing. Spread a thin layer of clean, new grease on the spindle itself, and then reassemble. You should be good to go for another 6 months.

Under no circumstances should you use something like 3-in-1 Oil, WD-40, sewing machine oil, or anything similar.

[bauzace50]

Tedrick,

Your description of the procedure is quite a useful reminder, especially for ones who seldom practice it (such as myself).

I may have missed your testimonials on the "HW-19 Mk IV" vs. "Classic":

- What tonearm do you have on the Mk-IV?

- Any notes on unipivot vs. gimbal (VPI suggest that the technical differences between the two types is rendered moot by the GOOD SOUND of the unipivot).

- Any notes on flutter and speed stability?

Best wishes,
bauzace50

[Tedrick]

I haven't posted any testimonials yet, something I need to do one of these days. The 'tables are installed in very different systems, so one of these days I need to move one of them so I can do a real side-by-side comparison where everything else is equal.

My Mk IV is fitted with an Audioquest PT-6 tonearm. I find both types of 'arms to sound great. The VPI arm is kind of unnerving at first, but once you get used to it, set up is pretty easy. I do like the ability to tweak and adjust the arm so that you can get the last drop of performance out of the cartridge. But again, since my 'tables are installed in different systems with vastly different cartridges, I would be hard pressed to say one is better than the other at this time.

Regarding speed stability, my HW-19 was a tad slow, so I use a VPI SDS with it to get speed set perfectly. One of the great things about the Classic is it's speed stability; mine is dead on perfect speed with no variation without the using the SDS.

[bauzace50]

Tedrick,
great to learn about those details, especially since my HW-19 Mk III + SDS is so similar to your Mk IV, but yours is a distinct upgrade!

I would be unnerved by the unipivot! But owners of unipivots swear by them rather strongly, and I can only guess as to what magic is working there? At least, strict logic might illustrate the benefits of gimbals better than unipivots. But you hear about those VPI's, and those Morch's, the Arro, and the Graham Phantom, etc. What's cooking .

Lots of good stuff going on. It seemingly never ends!

Regards,
bauzace50

[prt1969]

I have a fairly new Scout; is there a rec on when I should change or start worrying about bearing lubricant? It's a year and a half old.

[bauzace50]

@ prt1969,

The instruction manual for my HW-19 Mk III does not say how often the bearing lubricant should be changed.

In another thread for another turntable a VE member suggested changing the lubricant whenever it changes color (usually would turn to some shade of grey).
I merely do it every year and a half. But, what does the Scout instruction manual say about this?

Regards,
bauzace50

[Tedrick]

I have a fairly new Scout; is there a rec on when I should change or start worrying about bearing lubricant? It's a year and a half old.

I use a 6 month lubrication interval, which was recommended to me by a very knowledgeable VPI afficianado. The interval you use will depend on how often you run your 'table. If you play a couple of records most every day, I'd go with 6 months. Less often, and you could go a bit longer. In any case, I wouldn't go past 1 year; the amount of lube used is very small and it could start to break down and/or dry out after that long. Bearings are cheap, but the spindles, thrust plates, and other bits can get expensive.

[prt1969]

Not sure if the Scout's bearing is the same as the other VPI's mentioned here?

"The Scout has an inverted bearing, the well of which is machined from sintered bronze (a graphite-based lubricant is contained in pores in the alloy itself) with a Teflon thrust disc on top. This is a departure from VPI's recent standard practice of making bearing wells out of a thermoplastic called Rulon—designer Weisfeld says that sintered bronze can be machined more accurately with fewer operations, thus keeping comparative costs down. The Scout's bearing shaft, massively bolted to the plinth, is case-hardened tool steel, meaning it's actually somewhat softer at its core than its outer surface: Theoretically, at least, this could aid in damping vibrations. The business end of the shaft encapsulates a chrome steel ball whose hardness is 60 on the Rockwell scale."

[Tedrick]

Not sure if the Scout's bearing is the same as the other VPI's mentioned here?

"The Scout has an inverted bearing, the well of which is machined from sintered bronze (a graphite-based lubricant is contained in pores in the alloy itself) with a Teflon thrust disc on top. This is a departure from VPI's recent standard practice of making bearing wells out of a thermoplastic called Rulon—designer Weisfeld says that sintered bronze can be machined more accurately with fewer operations, thus keeping comparative costs down. The Scout's bearing shaft, massively bolted to the plinth, is case-hardened tool steel, meaning it's actually somewhat softer at its core than its outer surface: Theoretically, at least, this could aid in damping vibrations. The business end of the shaft encapsulates a chrome steel ball whose hardness is 60 on the Rockwell scale."

It is very similar to the inverted bearings used in all other newer VPI's, including the Classic, TNT-VI, Scoutmaster, and others. Thus, my comments above for lubricating an inverted bearing design with lithium grease are valid for the Scout as well.

[sturgus]

Thank you so much for starting this forum. I was beginning to feel like a stepchild as a VPI owener. I think these are great tables. Mine started as an HW19 MK-1. I have upgraded it to MK4 with a TNT platter . As far as lubricant I use 2 parts sewing machine oil and 1 part tuff oil. I change it about once a year. So far it seems to work really well.

[Tedrick]

Thank you so much for starting this forum. I was beginning to feel like a stepchild as a VPI owener. I think these are great tables. Mine started as an HW19 MK-1. I have upgraded it to MK4 with a TNT platter . As far as lubricant I use 2 parts sewing machine oil and 1 part tuff oil. I change it about once a year. So far it seems to work really well.

You might want to give VPI a call (you'll have to wait until Tuesday). I'm pretty sure they will tell you that the sewing machine oil is just too light for the heavier platters that VPI use.

[sturgus]

Thank you so much for starting this forum. I was beginning to feel like a stepchild as a VPI owener. I think these are great tables. Mine started as an HW19 MK-1. I have upgraded it to MK4 with a TNT platter . As far as lubricant I use 2 parts sewing machine oil and 1 part tuff oil. I change it about once a year. So far it seems to work really well.

I'm a pretty private kind of guy, but maybe, as your neighbor a few hundred yards to the south (in Fairview Heights), we might compare how a TNT platter sounds in a modified acrylic plinth compared to a HW-19 rig. At least we might try as soon as I finally get my speakers finished.

Maybe.

Sounds like a plan. What speakers are you building? Do you have pic's of the plinth?

[sturgus]

Thank you so much for starting this forum. I was beginning to feel like a stepchild as a VPI owener. I think these are great tables. Mine started as an HW19 MK-1. I have upgraded it to MK4 with a TNT platter . As far as lubricant I use 2 parts sewing machine oil and 1 part tuff oil. I change it about once a year. So far it seems to work really well.

You might want to give VPI a call (you'll have to wait until Tuesday). I'm pretty sure they will tell you that the sewing machine oil is just too light for the heavier platters that VPI use.

I used sewing machine oil just to thin the Tuffoil. The Tuffoil has the consistency of warm caramel.I have used this for several years now and I can see no real signs of wear so far. I will check with Mike at VPI and see what he says. Thanks for the concern
Sturgus