Modifications To A P1

[Blueguitar]

Hi everyone,

I've done a lot of changes to my p1 - Groovetracer Standard subplatter, glass platter, cork mat, Ortofon 2m Blue, wall shelf - I like it a lot, so much so I went to audition a p3-24 thinking how much better that would sound. I wasn't as blown away as I thought I would be, so for now I'm sticking with the p1.

My question is, would it be possible to upgrade the motor in the p1 and then, as money allowed, change the arm? It seems then I would have the available upgrades. I'm pretty happy happy with the sound now and have spent a lot of time setting it up, so I would have mixed feelings about starting all over with a new table. Upgrading is interesting and I've only got so much cash - Impossible?

Thanks

[Alec124c41]

What you now have is far better than a stock P1.
A better arm might help things, perhaps a Jelco 370 (same length).
You might also try filing the slots in the RB100 arm from 7mm to 10mm, allowing you to try Baerwald alignment. Also, if you can get the steel stub ans weight from an RB300, that someone has upgraded to an OL or Groovetracer weight, it would help.
And try a DIY leather mat in place of the felt.

Cheers,
Alec

[Blueguitar]

would another Rega Arm fit? I would want to stick with the brand -

[Alec124c41]

would another Rega Arm fit? I would want to stick with the brand -

Another Rega arm would be a drop-in fit.

Cheers,
Alec

[Jim Leach]

And I have the RB300 stock stub and weight if you wanted to try that (of course I'd have to FIND it first), but I have one available.

You are far beyond the P1 at this point! I believe (and someone correct me if I'm wrong) that the -24 motor and motor control can also be retrofitted to the P1 (and P2 & P3 for that matter). I have not done it myself, but it seems to be a 'well-worth-it' type of upgrade. I would imagine with your hot rodded table and the -24 upgrade, you'd be hot on the heels of a P5...

Isn't modding fun?

[Blueguitar]

Thanks - I'm not sure if the other arm weights fit the R100, I was told at some point they wouldn't.....I was wondering if the motor upgrade could be applied to the P1 - I think that would be my next step. What would make a bigger difference, putting in a RB251 arm or motor?

Thanks for the suggestions.

[Frank_Sm]

If it were me, I'd opt to remove the upgraded subplatter, glass platter, and upgraded cartridge and sell the P1.
You could sell the P1 with the glass platter included if you like but you can install the upgrades on your newer Rega deck, be it a P3/24 or P5 if that is the route you choose.
It's not worth upgrading the tonearm or motor on the P1. The 24V motor will be at least $189.00 and the RB-301 will be about $495 so you can see that unless you buy used, you'll end up spending more money than necessary. You'll also spend a few hours installing both. Just my opinion of course.

[Blueguitar]

I may do that - or I could put in a motor this year for 200 dollars, get a better tonearm next year...spread the cost out and learn a lot about how a turntable goes together. I may just keep saving my money and upgrade to a new table and keep this one as a back up.

Frank, if I did want to remove the Groovetracer, how do I get out the zirconium bearing? Will the magnet work on it?

[Frank_Sm]

Frank, if I did want to remove the Groovetracer, how do I get out the zirconium bearing? Will the magnet work on it?

If you want to avoid possible damage, you would need to remove the brass bearing housing from the plinth by removing the nut that seats it to the plinth. It is located under the plinth next to the motor. It is a large nut, can't mistake it.
I always recommend loosening it halfway then pushing it up until it bottoms out on the plinth. You can then fully remove the nut and pull it out from the top.

[Blueguitar]

Frank, wouldn't I just pull out the Groovetracer Subplatter the same way I pulled out the original subplatter? It was an easy pull up and straight, then I used the magnet to get the original bearing. I thought I might use a little straw and use suction to get the new bearing up if the magnet doesn't work on it.

[Jim Leach]

I thought I might use a little straw and use suction to get the new bearing up if the magnet doesn't work on it.

That might work; however I'm with Frank: pull the housing out and do it that way. Less chance of a problem and less mess!

I think weather you upgrade what you have a bit at a time as you suggest, or put it back to 'stock' and do a straight upgrade, you will be in good shape. Regas hold their value well, and if you happen to go with a more expensive Rega, the subplatter can be used on the new table...

[Alec124c41]

Thanks - I'm not sure if the other arm weights fit the R100, I was told at some point they wouldn't.....I was wondering if the motor upgrade could be applied to the P1 - I think that would be my next step. What would make a bigger difference, putting in a RB251 arm or motor?

Thanks for the suggestions.

I have an RB300 stub and counterweight in my RB100. It fits. Note that you want to change out the plastic stub, with the counterweight.

Cheers,
Alec

[wobbleu]

Not seen a P1 plinth, but if it's the same cut out as the P2 & P3 for the motor - it will need some hacking to fit the 24v motor. The circuit board on the P3-24 is a lot bigger and surrounds the motor, it also sits flush to the plinth to allow the two surface mounted power sockets to line up with the motor cover.

I'd trade in the P1 ( as a stock model) towards a P3-24 and transfer the sub-platter over. Not sure where you are - in the UK there are some 'cosmetic seconds' of the P3-24 available at a good price.

If you stick with the P1 - any rega arm with the 3 point fitting will fit - on my P3-24 I upgraded to RB-700 and was very pleased with the results.

[Blueguitar]

Thanks everyone - after your input, it seems the best option is to save some cash and get a better all around table. The urge to upgrade once you hear how good music can sound is hard to fight.