ELAC Miracord 40A...

[Chopsrr]

I've been messing around a bit this evening on the Miracord listening to some older LP's that I'm not too concerned about their condition. I am also running it through my old Music Hall mmf-phono pack as I have run out of phono inputs on my amp. LOL

After a thorough inspection of all the mechanics above and below the chassis, it is still a very smooth and quiet running machine to say the least. Absolutely everything works just like new. There's no rust or corrosion anywhere.

That's the good part. Now for the bad part...

First off, the left RCA is flaky. Under closer examination you can see the wire mesh shielding showing through right above the plastic plug. So every once in a while the left channel will drop out if the cable is agitated a little. That's not a big deal as I plan on replacing/upgrading this cable anyway when I build the wood plinth.

Secondly, and this is the important one, I have found the source of that "tick, tick, tick" noise that I've been mentioning. As I had the platter off, I plugged the unit in and started it in its motions to see the mechanicals do their thing. Since the platter wasn't there to hold the idle wheel against the motor, I lightly used my finger on the idler arm to let it touch the motor. When I did this, I immediately felt and heard that same ticking. (BTW, the spindle actually has to be spinning to get the mechanics of the table to move, so with no platter I used my other hand to turn the spindle.)

Anyway, after I spun the spindle enough to have the tone arm back at its resting place and the motor turned off, I took a good look at the idle wheel. What I found was a small "burned-in" groove in the side of the wheel where it looks like something stopped it while the motor was running and the shaft burnt the groove into it. I'm guessing one of my brothers or possibly my mom stopped or held the platter in place years ago at some point. Who knows, but that's why I remember this table having that ticking sound even when I was young and just starting to use it. If it wasn't for this, this table wound be in absolute mint shape inside and out.

This may present an issue as I'm sure it's not very easy to just happen across a new or mint idler wheel for a ELAC Miracord 40A, though I haven't even begun to hunt for one yet on the net either. Any suggestions on possible suppliers?

As always, here's a few pics to go along with the post...












If you look to the left side of the idler wheel, you can see the little groove with some "gold dust" on either side of it, and from the looks of it, it looks like it was on the 16 rpm section of the shaft when it happened.

[Alec124c41]

It might be feasible to remove the idler and turn it down a bit, to eliminate the notch. The exact diameter is not critical.
The other, perhaps more common cause for such a notch is the idler being left in the play position, with no power to the motor.

Cheers,
Alec

[Chopsrr]

Looky what I just found... and purchased!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310248293873&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

[Chopsrr]

It might be feasible to remove the idler and turn it down a bit, to eliminate the notch. The exact diameter is not critical.
The other, perhaps more common cause for such a notch is the idler being left in the play position, with no power to the motor.

Cheers,
Alec

I was thinking of turning it down a little as well but would be afraid of making it out if round and possibly taking too much off making it smaller than it should be.

Why do you say that the size isn't that critical? Wouldn't the wrong size wheel throw the rpm's off?

As it sits right now, the rpm's are just about spot on as it's spinning just a hair fast.

[bastlnut]

hallo,

a new wheel is preferable to a turned down old one.
the smaller the diameter, the less force the spring can exert on the idler arm.
the dent in the rubber if the idler wheel can change density of that point as well,
so taking off material to create a round wheel may not be without detriment.

there are many factors in lowering the rumbel of an idler turntable.
good that you found a replacement.
good luck!

regards,
bas

[fromans4]

My father used to have that same model back when I was a teenager. I was taught how to treat and use records by my father with that turntable.

[Chopsrr]

hallo,

a new wheel is preferable to a turned down old one.
the smaller the diameter, the less force the spring can exert on the idler arm.
the dent in the rubber if the idler wheel can change density of that point as well,
so taking off material to create a round wheel may not be without detriment.

there are many factors in lowering the rumbel of an idler turntable.
good that you found a replacement.
good luck!

regards,
bas

That makes plenty of sense. That's why I figured I'd just buy a replacement rather than try to fix the one I have. I'd hate to spend the time attempting to repair the original and have it still not meet spec.

Thanks Bas.

[Chopsrr]

My father used to have that same model back when I was a teenager. I was taught how to treat and use records by my father with that turntable.

The Miracord had already been passed down to my mother when my father had bought a brand new Technics SL-1700 Mk II in 1979 as an upgrade. I was only four then but had already showed an interest in music and believe it or not, stereo equipment. I watched him and my two oldest brothers use their TT's all the time, so it was just a few years later when I was 7 or so when I was allowed and trusted to use the Miracord on my own on my mother's small system.

[Chopsrr]

This is probably a stupid question, but I need to ask anyway... LOL

As the typical RCA connectors of today are colored white for LEFT CH and red for RIGHT CH, then am I to assume that on this old Miracord, the white connector is LEFT and the black connector is RIGHT?

The reason I ask is because I'm going to replace the original RCA cable on it tomorrow with a new ones and I don't want to have to solder then resolder again, if you know what I mean.

Many thanks in advance!

[Alec124c41]

When you get inside, right should be fed by red and green wires from the arm, and left by white and blue.

Cheers,
Alec

[Spinnr]

Chops, sorry for the late reply, you were right to berate us idlers.

Because of the battleship arm, the tuntable looks like one you would find in a Barbie and Ken home upgrade, it looks out of scale. But kinda cool.

But if it sounds good, then that's all that matters.

If you can't find a new ider wheel then you have two suggestions from this later comer. Although, as always, Alec's suggstion of sanding down the whole circumference to get it smooth is the way to go.

One. Find an old idler wheel (all we are looking for here is similar material), fine sand paper, collect the sandings, add to a mix of thinned two part epoxy, and overfill the dent in the circumference. When hard, sand with fine sand paper for a smooth new circumference.

Two. To bump out the dent, screw a very small self tapping screw 1mm inboard of the dent. Use fine sand paper for a smooth new circumference. Cut the screw head off if you don't have space here.

And three. Call Barbie, invite her over to listen to your new records.

Viny forever.

[Chopsrr]

When you get inside, right should be fed by red and green wires from the arm, and left by white and blue.

Cheers,
Alec

That's the problem. There's only two wires coming from the tonearm, both of which look like one side of standard speaker wire in copper.

Click on the link below and you should be able to blow the picture up to full size. The tonearm wires are at the top left of the image right above the large gear. They're the only wires on there that look like speaker wire.

http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v11/p958785651.jpg

[Chopsrr]

Chops, sorry for the late reply, you were right to berate us idlers.

Because of the battleship arm, the tuntable looks like one you would find in a Barbie and Ken home upgrade, it looks out of scale. But kinda cool.

But if it sounds good, then that's all that matters.

If you can't find a new ider wheel then you have two suggestions from this later comer. Although, as always, Alec's suggstion of sanding down the whole circumference to get it smooth is the way to go.

One. Find an old idler wheel (all we are looking for here is similar material), fine sand paper, collect the sandings, add to a mix of thinned two part epoxy, and overfill the dent in the circumference. When hard, sand with fine sand paper for a smooth new circumference.

Two. To bump out the dent, screw a very small self tapping screw 1mm inboard of the dent. Use fine sand paper for a smooth new circumference. Cut the screw head off if you don't have space here.

And three. Call Barbie, invite her over to listen to your new records.

Viny forever.

No worries.

The tonearm looks like a tank, but it's really not. It feels like a medium weight arm and doesn't seem to have a problem tracking anything I throw at it.

As for the idler wheel, I already purchased a replacement from a 50H donor. It's supposed to be in great shape.

Oh, and Barbie is too much of an air head. I wouldn't be able to put up with her for more than two minutes! LOL

[Chopsrr]

Just finished soldering in the new interconnects. I made it a half meter longer than the old cable. It's a Belkin component video cable that I pulled the "green" strand from and left the blue and red for the left and right channels. It's very flexible with a nice thick jacket. There's a noticeable improvement in sound too. Stronger, punchier, cleaner, more presence and a quieter background. It's almost as if I upgraded the cartridge! Definitely worth the effort.

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