Restoration Questions For Recently Purchased Sp10 Mark2

[ckniker]

I just bought and received a used SP10 Mark2 that came without a Power Supply Unit.

Before I go through the effort of building (or buying) a PSU for it, I'd like to thoroughly clean it to make sure it's worth the effort. I want to make sure the bearing is fine before spending any cash or time on the project.

I started to disassemble the unit but ran into a few questions almost immediately:

1) How does one remove the bottom of the "bath tub" to get at the circuit boards? I tried removing all of the screws around the perimeter of the base but the bottom is still held tightly. There are three additional screws closer to the center that I didn't remove. Before removing those, I just want to check here in case those are holding other things in place that may be difficult to attach later on.

2) How does one remove the motor from the "bath tub"? I removed the plastic cover for the mechanical brake but the motor (and spindle) are still held in place. The spindle (and top motor plate) will move up and down vertically but can't be removed from the motor. I can't seem to find the screws that hold the motor to the bath tub. Another thing: I assume that the spindle (and top plate of the motor) can be removed from the motor for cleaning. If this isn't the case, please let me know.

3) How much bearing oil is needed (once I get to the point of cleaning and refilling the bearing)? I can't seem to find this info in the service manual.

4) The rubber dampening material on the underside of the platter has lifted up slightly (and possibly rubbing against the bath tub). Is there an adequate modern substitute for this material? I need to remove it if it's rubbing but I'm afraid that if I remove it for reattachment, the platter won't be properly balanced when I put it back on....

One other thing.... If there's anyone in the Metro Boston area who can loan me a Mark2 PSU for testing (just to make sure the table will work before building a PSU), I'd be thrilled. I'm happy to travel with the table in hand to hook it up.

Thanks in advance,
Chris

[1200y3]

I suggest doing the opposite, get the PSU, then use it before deciding to tear into it. The rubber material lifting is a strange thing.

If you open a mint unit and dissassemble it, it won't be mint anymore. An interesing thing in units that are useless if there is rumble and noise, noises can appear after screws and panels become slightly disfigured from removal.

Why would the bearing be bad? Someone park their car on it?

There are also a few posts regarding the SP 10.

Most turntables can be repaired at home by anyone and have superior performance. The SP 10 was a commercial unit, and not designed for home users.

Regardless of what reviewers say, it is one excellent turntable, outperforming most of the ones I can afford. Furthermore, at its purchase date, it was many times the price of an LP12.

[ckniker]

Download the manual, it will help you a lot.

I have downloaded the Service manual. Unfortunately, it doesn't answer all my questions:

1) How do I separate the motor spindle (and top) from the bottom of the motor (so that I can get at and clean the bearing)?

2) How much bearing oil is needed? I've had to go through trial and error with my other turntable (Teres 320) and have had bearing oil leaking out all over the place.

Chris

[ckniker]

Dave,

Not to be too dense but where in the manual(s) does it explain how :

1) to separate the spindle (top?, rotor?) from the base of the motor?

I've seen pictures of the base of the motor so I presume it can be done.

http://www.soundfountain.com/amb/sp10mk2_rotor_400.jpg

2) much oil should be put into the bearing?

The user manual states "apply two or three drops to the motor shaft". I have a hard time believing that 2 or 3 drops will be sufficient after I completely remove 30 years of grime, grunge, and metal wear from the bearing.

My SP10 is not in mint condition and was (apparently) used in a radio station (it still has the station's sticker w/ inventory bar code stuck to the back).

I appreciate the concern for its well being but I bought it as a fun learning project and plan to rip it apart in an effort to get it working as optimally as possible.

Chris

[Shoji]

Hello Chris. Service manual not give enough information in answer for your question. Only MK2A manual give more information on remove of brake assembly but still no information on removal of motor rotor assembly. Reason for this is due to design originally produced to never require dis mantle at any time and factory never recommend dis mantle of motor. Here is some information to assist if you wish to make the cleaning:

Remove top brake cover (5 screw) - some time show as Item 3 in MK2 service manual
Remove brake housing rubber - item 4 grey item
Remove brake band - item 5 (also retaining clip)
Remove brake housing - item 9 black plastic item
On motor housing flange is small plate with rubber cap on two screw. With the care remove rubber cap for screw access. Remove two screw with plate. This now allow rotor assembly to be free for remove. Use much care and make no damage to thrust plate cap on spindle. After clean with the cloth of lint free property and soft cleaning wad replace with oil for correct specification to little smaller level than top of thrust ball in base of spindle housing. This require very good light source when check level as not easy to view. When place spindle back in to housing make extra care and place clean oil on spindle shaft first. Will take time for rotor assembly to fall back in to spindle housing shaft. No rush this and let settle in own time.

[ckniker]

Thanks for the helpful info, Shoji.

[futurproof]

Hey ckniker,

Would you consider taking photographs of your SP10 project and posting them here.
I would love to see a step by step strip down of a Technics SP10 and I'm sure many on this forum would find it helpful.

[ckniker]

Does anyone know of a source where I can buy the power connector for the MarkII Power Supply (part 8 of the SH10 in the Service Manual)?

Though my SP10 came without the PSU, it came with the Power umbilical that connects to the PSU.

Would you consider taking photographs of your SP10 project and posting them here.

Will do (as soon as I have the chance).

Chris

[chariot]

The PSU connector is an XLR that you can get from Radio Shack.

Dave

To stay original, see if you can find the 4-pin XLR connector from Switchcraft rather than Cannon or Neutrik.

[sp10]

Can I just ask if you have any experience of this sort of work?
Gary