New Linnie :)

[jensonj78]

Hi All, my first post on this forum, im so glad to have discovered vinlyengine, it's truly the wikipedia of turntables.

a brief background; im from Bombay, India. im rediscovering Vinyl, my initial exposure was my dad's LP stash, which was not much, but a decent one to boot with. running on a basic HMV turntable.

Fast forward to now, i was on a lookout for a decent TT which would offer the bang for buck. although i was looking for a garrard 401, as luck would have it, came across a LP12 Sondek locally (very rare to see Linns on sale in india, of those who have it, never part with it); as luck would have it, owner had a G401 and this LP12 and was looking to part with the LP12 for some reserve cash.

So, what i got is, a Table circa 8th Oct 1979 with a Linn Ittok LV-II (in pristine condition) and a basic Shure cartridge. none of the parts are replaced, table is in Original spec (aluminium shade suspension springs, plain chassis, white inner bearing lining et al.)

Vinyl engine is flooded with so much informations on this table that theres hardly any new question to raise...im new to this forum, so please pardon me if this topics have been covered a over a thousand times...

As obvious, im smitten by the upgrade bug, but dont want to go at it full throttle...jsut want to get a better feel of the table first and understand "whats the purpose behind" a step rather than "do it coz everyones doing it" approach.

Based on my understanding in this forum, these are some of the basic steps i need to take first
1. replace belt
2. replace oil (have placed an order for Mobil velocit No.6, 5 ml)
3. replace suspension springs

i plan to tackle these three things first...
replace belt:-
I notice current belt is a damaged one and does sit tight in the lower groove of the pulley, 1/4th of it rests on the upper groove of the pulley and the rest lower groove, is this correct positioning?

some questions related to replacing Oil...as i understand, the steps include:-1. remove platter
2. remove spindle
3. pour in couple of drop of oil thru the bearing well
4. let the oil stay for couple of hours
5. turn the table upsidedown on a flat surface with the tone arm section firmly locked in and prefereably hangin free on a side of a table
6. let it stay for half hour
7. repeat above process if required
8. empty 2.5 ml of oil in the bearing well
9. apply little oil on spindle with cotton swab
10.put the spindle back in place, let it slide on at it's own pace

Suspension Springs: ahh well, i know..the linn bounce and what not...if there is one topic re-hashed to death on the LP12, i guess it has to be this. Please pardon me for going at it again...my question is lil bit more naive..
1. should i keep the tone arm in place as it is?
2. Would a older tone arm board be still ideal for setting up (my reference is only from sonic standpoint and not cosmetic, i like it the way it is)
3. any step by step process to de-assemble the unit; the way i understand it
a. place TT on a flat surface with enough space underneath to work with
b. unscrew bolts holding suspension springs
c. replace with newer springs
d. adjust tension
e. any important step that is missed above?
4. is there a specific pattern that is to be followed while tightening springs? (i understand we must check each spring for tension and preferably use to tighter one under the tonearm side and the softest one near motor
5. does the arm board need to be tuned so that it floats exactly in level with the plinth?
6. when i remove the platter and spindle revealing the bearing well, i see the 3 screws holding it slightly off center, is this ok?

Please correct me if i've got it all wrong. and, i truly apologize for such a long and winding thread...

ill post pictures by tomorrow or day after..to highlight some current issues as outlined in my query above...

[bubba45]

Hi there and welcome to VE.
There is a very good set up guide on the Linn Forum written by a guy who sets them up for a living and it is particularly good for knowing how to set the bounce correctly. But it is worth it as any suspended subchassis turntable (Ariston, Linn, Thorens, Systemdek, Heybrook etc) benefits from having a really well set suspension.
The method you refer to for re-oiling the bearing sounds a little bizarre to be honest. Where did you hear of that from?
Simply put a couple of MM of oil in the bearing well / housing, rub some on the inner platter bearing shaft and then lower it into the bearing housing. Let it settle (with the outer platter on too), then take the inner platter / bearing shaft out again and see if you have had any overflow from the bearing housing. If not add a few drops more oil and then replace the inner & outer platter again, let it settle and repeat this until you have a small overflow of oil. When you do you know you will have the whole platter spindle / bearing shaft submerged in the oil which on a Linn etc is what you want.
Be careful about your choice of oil though, if you have a silvery-gold coloured bearing housing with a white liner the wrong oil can cause it to seize.
Otherwise enjoy your new turntable.
By the way definitely keep the arm, get a better cartridge than the Shure and as long as the tonearm board is intact and not warped in anyway put it lower down on your upgrade list.

[jensonj78]

appreciate your note Bubba, those steps sound very logical.

regarding changing oil, i feel the original owner used sewing machine oil...somehow i feel the urge to rinse it inside out (is it possible/required?)

my table is from 1979...and i think it has the silvery-gold coloured bearing housing wit white lining...isnt mobil velocit no.6 the recommended one for this?

[spiceyokooko]

Sewing machine oil is fine, it's not that far from the correct specification oil as you've mentioned - Mobil Velocit No.6. That is the correct oil for the white liner bearing. Yes clean out the old oil as well as you can without allowing anything to drop inside the bearing housing.

But whatever you do, do not use any kind of degreasing fluid particularly iso alcohol inside the white bearing housing as it can damage the liner.

[targetrich]

Hi, I'm a newbie too, although I've had an LP12 for years. I've just bought a Koetsu cartridge for it and am working my way through my collection!