They laughed until the DIY retips started to play

[Paladin]

It was easy to fit the Audio Technica tip in the Sumo II which looks much like the Denon. BTW, Sumo is still running strong. A far nicer choice then original would be a $20 nude square-shank tipped Digitrac.

[1200y3]

I have used a cactus thorn (as thin as a thread) on the OUTSIDE of the cantilever to a stylus tip of a square shank line contact A/T. It was only a shot in the dark but it worked. I only kept the tip to admire under a microscope, and hope that I never need to be that delicate again. I actually used a Phanstheil cantilver and super glue. I could not use the original A/T tapered cantilever because it was flattenned at the tip.

Anything is possible as long as you don't lose the pieces (this one was as small as possible) and it was eventually worth it. I kept the tip stuck to a piece of masking tape to keep from losing it.

As much as I like DIY styli building, I stick mostly to generics with excellent results. Even splicing a generic tip to a generic cantilever with a thorn improves the stock generic.

[rito25]

I was finally able to retip my MA 2002e my self. How do I find the right tracking force?

[Paladin]

Congratulations Rito! The MA cartridges always did run on the light side. Start with 1.0g, try about 10 records, then see which way to go.

[bakelite2]

I am hoping to re-tip my Excel/Goldring ES-5H moving coil cartridge but I am having all sorts of trouble finding a cantilever large enough to slide over the remnants of the original cantilever that is still attached to the stub. Any ideas as to what I should be looking for to try.

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[rito25]

Thanks, 1 gram seems to work. I used the PE m93 needles for the retip. They track at 2 grams. I had problem with the cantilevers I cut collapsing, I just glued that cantilever crushed and all right to the stub of the old one.

[1200y3]

Bakelite: Are you able to fit a thorn onto the outside the leftover piece? (If you can't go in.) A thin thorn will glue to the outside of the cantilever and works well. Unnderstanding that the original cantilevers are very tiny, you have to do it in such a way that it doesn't make it unusable. Crazy Glue is one of those types of glue that can be used many different ways, but techniques have to be practiced and experienced. Some glue dries to fast, and slow glue requires a holding jig.

I am actually using Crazy Glue to make makeshift belts whole I wait to make an order. Polyurethane is rock stable, but has certain break in times and service life. With a rubber belt I just have to dab one edge and mate the two edges (practice with old belts). I have connected an A/T fine line (and a seriously small stylus) to a generic replacement stylus cantilever (nice thing about Shures) by dabbing a thorn with CA glue, then touching it to the tip. With about an 1/8 inch thorn length I fit it into the cantilever of a Shure. So in other words to save myself some anguish I connected the extremely fine stylus to a Shure. If you wanted to keep your Goldring alive, I wouldn't hesitate to put the tip of a generic replacement stylus on it. Believe it or not, stylus tips are not that different from each other (they still have the differences in "tight HF detail"), but cantilevers, compliances, coils, etc are. I find that even cutting the tip of a generic replacement stylus about 1/3 from the tip, then connecting it with a thin thorn, it will sound quite good. It just needs that "relief" from the shaft holding it. The the cantilever is still part of the pickup, and it will pickup what the independent stylus tip is sending it.

A fine line's lack of hazziness can be enjoyed with a spherical with this "decoupled" cantilever, you just won't get the highest frequency detail. With a well built spherical, the highest frequencies wil not be physically touched. A fine line WILL be physically touching every HF modulation, hence the reason the manufacturer can't get away with poor cantilevers on a FL.

Glues used for "testing" (such as removeable white glue) that won't damage the cartridge have been discussed earlier, thankfully.

I would suggest practicing the DIY stylus craft with Shures and A/T's that can be found at 2nd hand stores, and generic replacement styli, before risking an expensive MC. The reason is that you will learn about the end result sounds, such as cantilever types and tip sizes, and why different tip sizes were invented, and how to select a different tip size. Each stylus size has its own purpose, from record wear playback, home playback to playback in public arenas. And you'll know the stylus shape and size just by hearing it. When there is no cantilever colorations, the image shape is proportional to the stylus profile. (Sperical vs line?)

DO NOT GET SUPER GLUE ON THE COMPLIANCE. Contact cement is a bit nore forgiving as well and it gets tight, but don't get it on the compliance either.

[bakelite2]

If I go that route of gluing a thorn to the outside of the cantilever can it be reversed if I then decide to send it to someone like Soundsmith for a new cantilever and stylus.

[1200y3]

I wouldn't attempt it. Something like contact cement or white glue may be easier to remove, and other types of glue have been discussed in earlier posts, but the risk of damage to the "motor" exists. Cheaper MMs don't have delicate coils attached to the cantilever, and many generic MM stylus came right out of the compliance and stylus to work with.

I would consider (unless you know the cartridge rebuilder) the home rebuilding craft for situations where it keeps costing too much money, or if you have the cartridge to "hack" with no costs. Shure and A/Ts are found at garage sales for almost nothing.

I assume a rebuild would consist of the coils too, and it shouldn't matter what you do, but "send away" cartridge repair may require some original measurements, etc. Cleaning up another's mess is not always easy. It can be costly and risky.

The reason I would repair the original myself is because there is a good chance the original factory work would never be outdone by a second rebuild.

[bakelite2]

Good response so now I have plenty to think about.
I will put the Excel to bed for now and practice on something a bit easier for now, save the $250.00 for a proper Soundsmith rebuild and by doing that sleep easier.
Thanks for your help.

[bakelite2]

Brilliant, can't wait to hear how it performs when you get to drop that stylus. I notice you had a fair bit of the original cantilever to work with, mine has broken of just above the stub well inside the cartridge body.
I have done one rebuild on a B&O cart and it worked brilliantly but the Excel is a different proposition, your effort has given me the inspiration to keep going with the project.

[1200y3]

Just a little off topic, but a couple of interesting DIY cartridges for learning: A 1.50 piezo tweeter will drive a phono input (electrostatic cartridge), and a cassette head (millions of free cartridges) will work with a stylus such as an A/T or Shure placed on it. The tape head actually sounds like tape, but its pickup quality is good.

[bakelite2]

Could you elaborate on that as I don't follow what you mean. I guess I'm a little like Jethro Tulls "Thick As A Brick"

[1200y3]

Just hook the head outputs to the phono input and install the stylus so the magnet is at the head gap (lines). Use a cheap turntable and record for experiment, so the head can be Blu-Tacked to the headshell. It worked on my NAD preamp, but a loading resistor may change it. A tape head amp is usually at least 100k input impedance. It will be difficult to get stereo.

The real idea behind the experiment was differentiating tape from disc. The V15 cartridges used a core closer to a tape head than others, so I was interested in the similarity. I guess tape simply doesn't have high enough velocity at low speeds to provide the exceitement that vinyl does. But the head still had the "dead" sound, so the difference between tape and disc may be in the head. (Of course it is, because head gaps can't be small enough at low speeds.)

As for the piezo, just like a ceramic cartridge it will be difficult to get high enough compliance on the ceramic element, so it is similar to the ceramic cartridge. A ceramic cartridge that uses good stylus and a dab of silicone grease to couple the stylus to the yoke works, but its gain will be as low as a magnetic. There can be other coupling methods as well. It can actually sound very good. Piezos are purely electrical, for a hotter sound, and have more than enough generating ability.

I find it is easier to make a high quality turntable at home than a speaker.