They laughed until the DIY retips started to play

[1200y3]

I would have to use the ES styli for a while before I can give them a grade, because the V15 styli are pricey. I modified my V15 V to accept the regular sized stylus tubes and it was worth it. I slipped the original VMR cartridge into the xMR body. (The V15 cartridge is very unique, and well worth it for any stylus.)

No matter what, the whole reason I got into the cactus cantilevers was to match the haze free sound of the beryllium stylus of my V15VMR, and the cactus beats it.

[vincitsemper]

Sorry for bringing this thread back from the dead, but is Mr Paladin still around and has anyone else cactused their stylus successfully?

Cheers,

Victor.

[cafe latte]

I am trying to get a supplier of cantilevers and stylus or even cantilevers with stylus fitted. So far I have a company in Japan but I want some other options but I have been too busy to chase it up more. I have removed and refitted cantilevers and stylus from cheap carts and it is hard but far from impossible. I have not tried the cactus technique but I cant see any reason why it would not work perfectly after my experiments.
Regards
Chris

[1200y3]

I just use generic styli. The actual stylus tips don't seem to matter as much as cantilever, compliance, and overall cartidge/stylus build quality. So in other words, try to keep as much of the original stylus as possible.

Although I backed up the idea, I prefer rebuilding Shure tips mostly, due to the ease of rebuilding. And I do find the cactus to be as clean as my V15s (VMR), but a V15 is not a Grado. But to get the 3rd dimension the of the Grado with my Shure (M92E!), I actually use a generic stylus (conical!?) with a crack cut into it, which reduces the amount of cantilever mass attached to the tip.

What type of stylus would Caffe Latte be working with? (Notice how I say "working with".

[cafe latte]

I just use generic styli. The actual stylus tips don't seem to matter as much as cantilever, compliance, and overall cartidge/stylus build quality. So in other words, try to keep as much of the original stylus as possible.

Although I backed up the idea, I prefer rebuilding Shure tips mostly, due to the ease of rebuilding. And I do find the cactus to be as clean as my V15s (VMR), but a V15 is not a Grado. But to get the 3rd dimension the of the Grado with my Shure (M92E!), I actually use a generic stylus (conical!?) with a crack cut into it, which reduces the amount of cantilever mass attached to the tip.

What type of stylus would Caffe Latte be working with? (Notice how I say "working with".

Just what I had, I found the easiest to work with was some pfanstiehl 4608-dex which actually not good quality at all as the cantilever can literally be just pulled out and put back. I have also some stanton d71ee which are a different story. The cantilever is held in with a tiny wire which is soldered to hold the cantilever in position. It is not hard to desolder and remove the cantilever though if you have good magnification.
Regards
Chris

[vincitsemper]

Sounds like micro-surgery, Chris. I am looking to sort out two B&O SP14s, buying new replacement styluses is far too expensive, when you actually find one.

The cactus splint looks interesting, re-soldering the thin wire, as Chris has done, is something I had not thought about. Does that mean that it's possible to insert a new cantilever in a MC cartridge? I caught my Supex 900Super in a duster, it had only around 50 hrs on the clock.

[cafe latte]

Sounds like micro-surgery, Chris. I am looking to sort out two B&O SP14s, buying new replacement styluses is far too expensive, when you actually find one.

The cactus splint looks interesting, re-soldering the thin wire, as Chris has done, is something I had not thought about. Does that mean that it's possible to insert a new cantilever in a MC cartridge? I caught my Supex 900Super in a duster, it had only around 50 hrs on the clock.

The rear of MC carts cantilever have the coils attatched so unlike MM they cant be completely removed. However hard to explain but on many MC carts there is a little cup that the front section of the cantilever can be glued into just in front of where the screws are. It many need to be cleaned out to fit the new cantilever. With MM when the wire is desoldered the cantilever suspension o ring and magnet will just slide out.
The soldering is small stuff but with magnification not too hard.
Regards
Chris

[vincitsemper]

Thanks for explaining, Chris. I have a few dead cartridges laying around so will have a look at them later.

Cheers,

Victor.

[1200y3]

One of my interests in the Pfanstiehl stylus was the fact that it had no suspension wire, and that the stylus did slide out easily (on some types of generics). I chose this design to explore the ideas of having a stylus totally isolated from the structure.

If you have to do any soldering, you must use the smallest possible soldering iron. I use a probe style iron made by Oryx, but I can't say how it compares with others.

Keep in mind that you do not want to damage the system, and a simple cactus thorn splint is usually all that is needed. And with MC's (which this repair technique is mostly useful for) alignment can be unforgiving. Keep it simple.

[cafe latte]

One of my interests in the Pfanstiehl stylus was the fact that it had no suspension wire, and that the stylus did slide out easily (on some types of generics). I chose this design to explore the ideas of having a stylus totally isolated from the structure.

If you have to do any soldering, you must use the smallest possible soldering iron. I use a probe style iron made by Oryx, but I can't say how it compares with others.

Keep in mind that you do not want to damage the system, and a simple cactus thorn splint is usually all that is needed. And with MC's (which this repair technique is mostly useful for) alignment can be unforgiving. Keep it simple.

Yes the Pfanstiehl cantilevers just pulled out, I think the suspension O ring was slightly glued in but a gentle pull and the glue let go and the assembly comes right out.
Regards
Chris

[cafe latte]

Thanks for explaining, Chris. I have a few dead cartridges laying around so will have a look at them later.

Cheers,

Victor.

Could you post some close up pics of the missing stylus I am interested to see if you have a clean cup. You may have to slightly dismantle the case to access it more easily.
Regards
Chris

[vincitsemper]

Hello Chris,

The two B&O SP14s both have half a cantilever remaining. The Supex 900 is boxed up with my Sondek and I haven't looked at it since I snapped it, over 15 years ago! I was so enraged when I messed it up that I could not bear seeing it. I think that its cantilever also snapped in half.

I am unsure as to what you mean when you say "cup".

Will have to unpack the Linn and take photos of the Supex.

By the way, will have to pick your brain for suitable sticky oil for my Dual CS-500's bearing at some point. You seem to be an expert a lubrication.

Cheers,

Victor.

[cafe latte]

Hello Chris,

The two B&O SP14s both have half a cantilever remaining. The Supex 900 is boxed up with my Sondek and I haven't looked at it since I snapped it, over 15 years ago! I was so enraged when I messed it up that I could not bear seeing it. I think that its cantilever also snapped in half.

I am unsure as to what you mean when you say "cup".

Will have to unpack the Linn and take photos of the Supex.

By the way, will have to pick your brain for suitable sticky oil for my Dual CS-500's bearing at some point. You seem to be an expert a lubrication.

Cheers,

Victor.

Hi Victor,
I am far from an expert on lubrication I have just done a LOT or research on oils recently. I will do my best to advise though. I will have a google later on when I get back in for online pics if I can find any of the cup I mean.
Regards
Chris

[vincitsemper]

Thanks, Chris.