1200y3 wrote:I just use generic styli. The actual stylus tips don't seem to matter as much as cantilever, compliance, and overall cartidge/stylus build quality. So in other words, try to keep as much of the original stylus as possible.
Although I backed up the idea, I prefer rebuilding Shure tips mostly, due to the ease of rebuilding. And I do find the cactus to be as clean as my V15s (VMR), but a V15 is not a Grado. But to get the 3rd dimension the of the Grado with my Shure (M92E!), I actually use a generic stylus (conical!?) with a crack cut into it, which reduces the amount of cantilever mass attached to the tip.
What type of stylus would Caffe Latte be working with? (Notice how I say "working with".
vincitsemper wrote:Sounds like micro-surgery, Chris. I am looking to sort out two B&O SP14s, buying new replacement styluses is far too expensive, when you actually find one.
The cactus splint looks interesting, re-soldering the thin wire, as Chris has done, is something I had not thought about. Does that mean that it's possible to insert a new cantilever in a MC cartridge? I caught my Supex 900Super in a duster, it had only around 50 hrs on the clock.
1200y3 wrote:One of my interests in the Pfanstiehl stylus was the fact that it had no suspension wire, and that the stylus did slide out easily (on some types of generics). I chose this design to explore the ideas of having a stylus totally isolated from the structure.
If you have to do any soldering, you must use the smallest possible soldering iron. I use a probe style iron made by Oryx, but I can't say how it compares with others.
Keep in mind that you do not want to damage the system, and a simple cactus thorn splint is usually all that is needed. And with MC's (which this repair technique is mostly useful for) alignment can be unforgiving. Keep it simple.
vincitsemper wrote:Thanks for explaining, Chris. I have a few dead cartridges laying around so will have a look at them later.
vincitsemper wrote:Hello Chris,
The two B&O SP14s both have half a cantilever remaining. The Supex 900 is boxed up with my Sondek and I haven't looked at it since I snapped it, over 15 years ago! I was so enraged when I messed it up that I could not bear seeing it. I think that its cantilever also snapped in half.
I am unsure as to what you mean when you say "cup".
Will have to unpack the Linn and take photos of the Supex.
By the way, will have to pick your brain for suitable sticky oil for my Dual CS-500's bearing at some point. You seem to be an expert a lubrication.