After AR quit using the delrin sleeve, they went to a big-block Ford, or Chevy valve guide from those days.....it was steel.....
Really? they used actual Ford/Chev valve guides??
Then they went with the phosphor Bronze sleeve...again a valve guide. 3/8" diameter.
This is an XA....
While the date stamp is long gone, I seem to
remember 1968 vintage, but not certain.
On cursory examination, it does seem to be
Bronze but plated.
I'll have a better look later.
A constant source of amazement to me is the
plethora of variations on this simple/budget table
over the years...
It looks like just a plain 'ol barrell-sleeve pressed
into the bearing-boss of the subchassis.
Biggest issue I've seen is the "wallering" of the sleeve. They become wider at top and bottom. I use a snap gauge to confim diamer size and amout of wallering. Standard machining sizes were .375" for the spindle, and .377 for the bore. Giving you .002 spindle to wall clearance. Pretty standard specs of those days.
Dunno if its out of round, and I don't have a snap
Bore guages/dial-indicators + stand are the tools
that I've always meant to but never got around
In spite of the visually obvious damage, it didn't
seem to cause an audible problem as of last playing
A testament to the tables.
(I DID always keep the oil fresh)
Maybe the (relatively) loose clearance actually
worked to advantage in this regard?
If you don't have access to a bore snap guage....the best way to check for wallering is lift the spindle about half way and rock it side to side and see how much movement there is....and then set it almost to the bottom and recheck.....putting it all the way down will contact the thrust plate and give you a "false" reading.
YOU have the spindle.
I don't have one.
I need to get that from YOU
(spindle/inner-platter and top plate)
If you have a straight sleeve, you can wrap some 800 grit paper around dowell rod and hone it using a drill at low speed....
Yeah... I had planned to use a dowell/drill after
resolving the preliminary issues..
Do you happen to know what dowell size to use,
so'z I don't have to drag the subchassis to the
store and see what fits?
Also, what length to cut it to, to chuck it in the
clean extremely well with hot soapy water when done....add some Moly coat to the refinished sleeve.
I usually clean anything like this with Acetone
then alcohol, after hot & soapy to get the heavier
I always apply Moly after honing anything.
Either paste or liquid, depending...
(tip) GM differential additive is liquified moly
(mostly) mixed with light gear lube.
Has the consistancy of very heavy oil... spreads
easily and evenly.
gkimeng wrote:The all-Derin bearing was first replaced by a Delrin cup with babbit sleeve.
Those are the type I remember seeing..
In fact, till I recently saw the all-Delrin type,
I thought thats what was meant by the Delrin
gkimeng wrote:Babbit is pretty soft stuff, and when I was polishing the spindle shaft I just stuck the spindle into the well and spun it while it was still coated with oil and buffing wheel compound, then cleaned it and spun again with oil only. With no belt on the platter, I can give it a good push and go make a cup of tea and it'll still be spinning when I get back from the kitchen.
That kinda makes me wonder... if it wouldn't
be a good idea to finish up with lapping compound
for bearing shaft to sleave interface.
Comming to think of it.. any honing would increase
the already loose .002 clearance to the point
of problematic, no?
Maybe just drill out the old sleeve and press in
a new one, nicely polished inside beforehand??