Exotic wood plinths for Rega?

[Jim Leach]

I can make up molding to fit around planar 3 tables to create that look like someone else asked for the framed tables. I just don't know if they are all the same dimensions or not. I also don't know the attachment method.

P3 add on frames where you figure out the attachment is something I could do. I can include some brackets where you screw into the bottom of the original plinth to hold it on.

[tomytoons]

Jim I would send you the P5 frame pieces (3) so the dimensions were perfect for sizing and attachment.
Easier that way than to make measurements that could inaccurate. PM me here and I will give you my E mail address.
Very interested!
RoDa(Rolf) had his P5 frame off and reworked but the wood frames attach a bit different. I have the silver aluminum frame of which I did not remove yet to see how it is attached.

Some looks of that taken apart on page 43 and 44 of the
"My first Rega upgrade - groovy baby!!"
thread.

Let me add that you must have some pretty nice tools to do that kind of work.

[Jim Leach]

I am fortunate to have some nice equipment left over from my guitar making days; however the real accuracy comes from being able to set it up accurately. It is not uncommon for angle indications on even the most expensive equipment to be off "a bit" which keeps miters from being air-tight.

Then it is a matter of good accurate jigs to secure the work to machine it.

Once that "homework" is done, it is easy!

[Jim Leach]

I'm back from vacation and hope to get to work on the first prototype soon.

Custom fit curved corner shelves took priority...

tip: use cherry stain on cheap poplar and it looks quite convincing (looks like North American Cherry) as long as you avoid the sap wood...

[nabil]

Jim, I'm interested too. I have a P7 with the cherry wood frame-I imagine that the P7 and P5 have identical frames so if you get a wood frame from tomytoons for measurement then I shouldn't have to send you mine... is this correct?

Bill

[lordvader]

I might register my interest too (not 100% though ...).
I have an old planar 3, and everytime I do anything, it feels like those wood chips are disintegrating more and more !

Will they be the same thickness as the existing plinths ?

[Jim Leach]

I might register my interest too (not 100% though ...).
Will they be the same thickness as the existing plinths ?

Thickness could be the same but I was planning to increase it to five or six quarter.

I could conceivably do it thinner too, but the motor and bearing are already sticking out the bottom...

I can also do edge treatments that make things look thinner than they are as well as rounding of corners etc.

Let me get the first one going and then we will all have a better idea.

[Jim Leach]

Jim, I'm interested too. I have a P7 with the cherry wood frame-I imagine that the P7 and P5 have identical frames so if you get a wood frame from tomytoons for measurement then I shouldn't have to send you mine... is this correct?

Bill

This may be correct; however I don't like working around the work of others if I can avoid it. If I do decide to offer frames only, I will let everyone know here.

[nabil]

Jim, I'm interested too. I have a P7 with the cherry wood frame-I imagine that the P7 and P5 have identical frames so if you get a wood frame from tomytoons for measurement then I shouldn't have to send you mine... is this correct?

Bill

This may be correct; however I don't like working around the work of others if I can avoid it. If I do decide to offer frames only, I will let everyone know here.

It's a deal!

[tomytoons]

I would be interested in a complete plinth too.
Will it be routed out and measured to retrofit all of the P5 parts?
"Watercourse" Wilson has a template made up.
My way of thinking with a new frame only, the sound of the table probably would not change with a plinth it will.

[watercourse]

tomytoons is right, I have a template for the arm and main bearing holes, plus the three-point mount spacing and orientation. Orientation is critical only if you want the arm parallel to the plinth side, assuming you have squared-off and parallel sides and care about aesthetics. For a non-three-point mount, just ignore the screw holes; orientation for those arms are determined by the user in any event.
My template doesn't have the motor/pulley hole drawn on it.
I'm happy to share if this helps in any way.

[MadMax]

Sounds pretty damn cool. I'd be interested in a prettier plinth, something in walnut maybe (but sticking with the standard shape); I'd be a little worried about messing up the sound with a different plinth though, and that's something I have no knowledge of whatsoever...

[Jim Leach]

OK we are getting a bit of track here so I just want to rein everyone in for a second.

I am going to do a prototype as soon as I am able (house projects come first!). It will be for the Planar 3, and should work for P3 and other tables. It will use the single hole arm mount in the stock location (222mm from the spindle I believe). The reason is, I plan to use my plinth as the template, so the locations will be as accurate as the original- I will not be measuring and altering the locations at this time.

In the future, assuming things go smoothly, I will entertain 3-point mount arms (newer tables) different spindle to pivot distances and the frames for the framed tables.

And, finally, I'll let the cat out of the bag on my plan:

Plinth 1 will be the old growth knotty white pine I spoke about way back. I have lots of it, so it is 'free' to mess up on, as opposed to other woods I have to pay for. It can also make a nice core for laminates of wood veneer later.

To this, I will apply an upper and lower edge treatment-it will be about 1-1/2 inch thick in the center (where the spindle is) with a 1/8 inch step to a taper that is about 1-1/4 inches wide and then straightening back out. I think this treatment will make the table ~3/4 inch at the outermost edges. The first step will be just outside the dust cover perimeter, so that will all look normal.The back edge will be flat to accept the hinges if you choose. For those who know one, it will be a raised panel shaping- but on both sides rather than the typical single side.

Basically, it will have a sort of frame integrated into the one-piece plinth- arguably the way Rega should have done the high end tables in the first place.

Also (in the future) I can use MDF and veneer that to have a density and sound close to that of the original. Again, I want to stress, these "upgrades" are first and foremost cosmetic ones, and I make no claims to the sonic improvements, if any. With that in mind, as we progress here, I am open to things like the suggested solid walnut above or more economical walnut veneer onto a less expensive substrate.

[MusicallyBiased]

looking forward to photos