RB303 as an upgrade

[Etnier]

Changing the stub for the counterweight was very easy: I was spooked about the change for no reason. I used long Facom slipjoint pliers for leverage-

and the stub just came loose. Much better than fighting with a smaller tool, I think.

Can't say I heard a difference, but it looks more like I remember...

[Keevs]

Thanks for your post Etnier. I was thinking down this line as well, that the next upgrade for my Planar 3 is either rewire the current arm or get a new arm altogether.

[wobbleu]

Thanks for the info about the RB303 - you've convinced me to go for one now.
On a lighter note, if someone came at me with those pliers - I reckon I wouldn't put up much resistance either....

[RP3user]

Changing the stub for the counterweight was very easy: I was spooked about the change for no reason. I used long Facom slipjoint pliers for leverage-

and the stub just came loose. Much better than fighting with a smaller tool, I think.

Can't say I heard a difference, but it looks more like I remember...

My apologies if I "spooked" you but you are the only person I have come across that has found removing the stub easy. I tried slipjoint pliers similar to yours and still couldn't get enough leverage. Had to use molegrips in the end.

Graham

[Etnier]

It wasn't just you- there's been a lot of talk about this.

Maybe Rega has changed something recently... I dunno.

[Etnier]

Thought I'd post here a few months along: a few respondents here said they were considering the RB303 upgrade. Anyone install one on their Planar 3? Comments??? I'm certainly happy with mine.

One odd thing though: I put one of those tiny 8mm bubble levels being sold out of England on my 'headshell'. It showed a slight tilt up towards the rear, using an SAE 1000e, the felt mat and no shims. Any comments on this??

[watercourse]

Did the Planar 3 come with a 2mm felt mat? If it was thinner, that might explain why this is the case. You'll generally get a presentation slightly more to the treble side with a nose-down angle, if this doesn't work for you, think about a thicker mat, or add another mat if you have one.

[wobbleu]

I cancelled my order for the RB303 as the delivery date was slipping, and in the end was looking at waiting another six weeks or so.
Dealer told me that Rega are experiencing some major sales increases because of the new products and so they are keeping the arms back to go with new turntables. There was a nice trade-in offer over here too...
I will get one, hopefully there'll be some available later in the year.

[tomytoons]

I'm using the SAE1000e on the GT Delrin platter with 2 X 2mm spacers for a total of 4 mm. It is level.
Did you compensate for the weight of the bubble level on the headshell area when you checked?
If not it would be higher in the back, but you would see that because the bubble level would probably bottom out the cartridge.You should be checking this with an average thickness album on the table.

You more than likely know all this.

[Etnier]

No, I don't LOL, because my turntable re-enthusiasm is only about a year old. I don't think that bubble level weighs enough to bottom out the cart. I will check things... thanks.

[aTALLasian]

Digging this back up because I'm thinking about doing this myself. Etnier, how did you center the new tonearm in the existing hole? I'm under the impression that the vertical bearings in the 303 are smaller than those of the 300 so the original hole in your Planar 3 would be bigger.

I remember reading somewhere that a VTA adjuster on the 303 will fill in the gap and correctly center the new arm in the hole, but I can't find out where that was and what adjuster was used.

[Etnier]

I don't recall any issue with the fitment you're concerned about. I think it's a red herring...?

[aTALLasian]

So how did you make sure you had the arm centered in the hole?

[Eoin]

So how did you make sure you had the arm centered in the hole?

Hi rega fans.

Just a suggestion here but I don't think centering will be too hard if needed. Lots of different ways this could be accomplished but personally I would use electrical tape would on the old spindle to simply build it up. This should accurately keep your centre, then mark, punch and drill as per the original poster. A drill press would be beneficial to get a reasonably good 90 degree hole.

You could also measure the gap and find a suitable material to build up the spindle for centring purposes but I think the tape method should be as accurate as anything.