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Perfecting my Garrard Zero 100

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Perfecting my Garrard Zero 100

Postby marc6146 » 18 May 2012 12:12

Love this vinyl playing machine. Just picked it up the other day.

Two things I need to work on is static from the arm and fixing the automatic feature.

Here's tons of pics -

http://photobucket.com/garrardzero100
marc6146
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Re: Perfecting my Garrard Zero 100

Postby Fishtails » 20 May 2012 12:20

Hi

I own a zero 100sb. Be c areful fixing the auto feature.

Need any tips?
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Re: Perfecting my Garrard Zero 100

Postby marc6146 » 20 May 2012 13:23

Yes any tips would be appreciated
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Re: Perfecting my Garrard Zero 100

Postby chan1 » 21 May 2012 14:29

Hi marc6146. You have some reading and work to do. Find and read the thread "zero 100 auto flaw" on page 2 started by ernst and "garrard zero100's" on page 8 started by bob59. These two threads should get you started on fixing most everything to get your machine up and running. Then you need to ask specific questions. If you ask questions in those two threads along with the one you started it will bring them to the top again where they will be easy to access.

As far as static is concerned, it is probably something minor that can be dealt with after the auto flaw problems are fixed but fix those first. Remove the machine from its base, the cartridge and cartridge carrier along with the platter and lock the tonearm down and then read the threads I mentioned. Be careful of the tonearm wires as they are easily damaged. You will need to remove all the old grease from all parts and add new light oil to fix your machine. Follow the information contained in the threads I mentioned for guidance. Take a few pics before hand if you are afraid to remove parts.

With some reading, studying your machine and a bit of care it will all work out.
Also, add no oil to the cue portion of the machine as it will be ruined forever. Locate and study those cue parts on the underside of the machine and leave them alone.

Hope this helps, chan
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Re: Perfecting my Garrard Zero 100

Postby marc6146 » 22 May 2012 13:15

Before I start dismantling, I took a couple of pics and some video so everyone can see what's up. It doesn't look very dirty there but, maybe I'm looking for the wrong kind of dirt.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-GyWY8BOLE&feature=youtu.be
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marc6146
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Re: Perfecting my Garrard Zero 100

Postby chan1 » 22 May 2012 14:53

Hi marc. Its not real dirt you are looking for but old hardened grease that is trapped between the moving parts. Once you start removing you will see that there is a hard material that in most cases will need to be scraped off. Start with the parts above the large white metal wheel with teeth on the edges and work your way towards the tonearm. Locate the long rod and clean the parts on both ends of that rod. Not all the parts on the tonearm end can be removed as they are pressed on with a machine so they must be cleaned in position. When you have cleaned all properly the long rod must be able to be moved back and forth very easily. You may have noticed that it does not move hardly at all at first. This long rod and parts control your size and speed the platter will turn at. I used alcohol to clean the parts after they are removed, taking a good swig now and then, but I am sure there is a better product. Remove all parts down to the large wheel and that wheel as well. All that black grease within the wheel and hardened grease under it between that wheel and the frame must be clean. The small plastic parts mounted on that wheel need to be cleaned but add no oil to them when you are done. Oil the slots but not those parts as they must move freely later on. Remove the platter bearing making note for reassembly. Clean and add a light oil. Some use synthetic oil on all parts after cleaning. I did not but some claim it is better. Do not forget to clean and lube the topside of the machine. Try to avoid getting new oil on the platter wheel and parts after they are removed and cleaned. All parts above must be clean and operating smoothly here as well. You will notice the short rod and that it passes under the brass part above on the tonearm end. This is the only part that will need to be forced off. Use a screwdriver to pry the rod of that part out of the white plastic female cup below. This short rod is held in place in this same area by another small white plastic part. The plastic part can be removed but all the parts below its mounting rod cannot be removed. They will need to be cleaned in place. This going to be hard to do because those parts are pressed on so adding a product like wd-40 must be used until those are free and move very easily. This is critical to the machines operation.

Please read and understand the previously mentioned threads and pics. If you think a part must be forced off(except for the part mentioned above) you would be wrong. Set the machine upside down on a surface in which you can free the tonearm and move the large wheel until the first parts can be removed.

Specific questions here may be needed. Feel free to ask and then I can add pics to help but most of the necessary pics have been posted on the other threads.

chan
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