Hi Ernst. Yes I have.
First. You have a 60Hrz decal held to the platter with adhesive that may have come loose a bit on the edges and is rubbing on the platter wheel and slowing things down. If so, take a hair dryer on high heat and heat the platter and decal up while pushing the decal back towards the platter so it makes good contact again with the platter. Also,make sure you have oiled the platter wheel where it makes contact with the shaft that it turns on also.
Second. Take a pic of the nut or bolt you say is rubbing on the platter. There is something wrong there as the platter wheel is the highest point under the platter and no part sticks up higher. If all parts are assembled correctly, there should be nothing close to making contact with the platter. Platter should not be making contact with the machine surface at any point, obviously, or something is not right. Platter bearing must be re-assembled correctly as this would cause the platter to be higher or lower than it should be. Also, the white metal part that holds the platter shaft and bearing must be assembled properly via the 2 bolts and 1 nut. This is sometimes tricky especially the portion that fits into the machine frame and 2 bolts tighten. The 2 points that receive the 2 bolts above must be pushed up right or the platter shaft will be slanted and create a strain.
Third. All Garrard zero's have blue, red, white and green tonearm wires. What color are yours.
It is possible that they were replaced and are too big for the tonearm and are slowing the mechanism down. Garrard tonearm wires are ultra small and have 3 or 4 conductors in each colored wire smaller that a human hair so it creates no friction on the tonearm. They actually move when the tonearm moves within the tube and it would not take much to slow things down if the wire is too big. Also,lets get rid of the yellow wire. Carefully pull it out of the tonearm wire tube. Any hangup here could slow things down. If that yellow wire was used for an extra ground, we will find another way to ground the machine.
Fourth. If necessary, I will show you how to oil the tonearm bearing. Not to hard but we will wait to see if the above procedure's work first.
I have added some pics of the tonearm wire and how small it is. Also, a pic of the tonearm bearing. Don't worry, we will not disassemble as far as I did for the pic.It is possible that your motor has become weak and will not turn the platter and parts correctly. There are oil retaining cups on each end of the motor shaft that need to be oiled. Fill the cups with oil and reassemble. Can't tell from your pics if you filled the cups with oil. With the platter off and the machine running, grab the motor shaft and see how much pressure it takes to stop it. Don't hold it too long but it should take a fairly good grasp to stop it. If very little is necessary, then your motor is weak. Lubing it will help. See above.Other than the problem with the platter stopping, does the motor seem to bring the platter to the right speed according to the strobe? Are there any teeth broken off on the large wheel? Note that there is a spot that has no teeth by design. http://img176.imagevenue.com/img.php?im ... 2_68lo.JPGhttp://img198.imagevenue.com/img.php?im ... 2_35lo.jpghttp://img175.imagevenue.com/img.php?im ... _235lo.JPGhttp://img175.imagevenue.com/img.php?im ... _179lo.JPG
PS: Let the machine run for about a half an hour until it gets good and warm and then try the shut off and turn on. Also, if you turn the platter by hand with the machine off, the platter should spin for 30-40 seconds or more or something is creating friction and the source eliminated.
PS2: I hope you have an extra pillow and blanket because I am running out of ideas and if we do not make this machine run as new, I will be flying to Antwerp to fix it. Hope you can pick me up at the airport.