301 thrift store find

[iain42]

Greetings.



I lucked out on Friday at a local thrift store. They hadn't sold anything in two days which helped me make the deal. I picked up a pair of EV Aristocrat back loaded horns, Scott 299D stereomaster, and Garrard 301 for $100usd. Friday I hadn't even heard of the 301. Now I feel like I am reading debates with opinions as divisive as religion and politics. My first feeling was to ebay the lot but after playing the Scott and Garrard I just can't let go. The retro wow factor is very high. Feels like christmas







The first thing I did was give it a careful cleaning. This took about an hour just for the outside. The second step is to find out how to lube it up. The third step is to make the speed selector and on/off switch function better. The on off switch doesn't stay in the on position and the speed selector is stiff. These seem like minor issues. If there is anyone trustworthy in the southern US that can service Garrard please let me know.

The picture above shows an hour timer which was hooked up to the TT. I've never seen an hour timer on a TT. If you want to track age on needle that is pretty brilliant. I'm going to include it in the plinth design whatever that ends up being.

Thought I would introduce myself because I am going to have many questions after I am through searching and reading this archive of information. I was surprised that there is no simple answer to plinth desigh or tonearm. My family is Welsh so the slate really calls to me but I am on a budget. It makes me want to go back to Snowdon and mine my own slate plinth

Advice much appreciated.

[gortnipper]

Nice score! Give this site a good read on how to tear down your motor and re-lube it.

http://home.earthlink.net/~transcrubbers/index.html

It will be well worth the effort, as it is likely dry as a bone and will need a lube job. It will sound much, much better for it. Use 90w gear oil. Get an ATA Kokomo thrust bearing, and it will sound better yet.

Have fun.
David

[josephazannieri]

Wow!!!! You have scored stuff that would sell for a couple of grand on Ebay, for almost nothing. It's a gift. I had one of those many years ago. I got an EV Georgian and a Fisher 500C from the local YMCA for a $20.00 donation. It's a once in a lifetime score. Congratulations!!!

If I were in your shoes, I would figure out what kind of cartridge it has and get a replacement stylus for it. It'll probably track in the the 2-3 grams range, just based on the fact that it's an old Garrard arm. You should be able to remove the plugin headshell and get a look at it. You will need a stylus pressure gauge, which can be purchased from Needledoctor or other sources. I don't think that arm (Looks like a Garrard TPA 10 or TPA 12) has antiskate.

Your issues with the onoff switch can probably be cured if you get the turntable off of the unit. Take off the mat, then lift the edges of the turntable until you feel the top of the bearing travel. Thump the spindle with a rubber mallet, or you can use a regular hammer and a wood block. Don't use a metal hammer to hit the spindle. Take the tuntable off and put it out of the way somewhere. You can now turn the unit upside down. You will see that there is a little lock mechanism that holds the switch arm in position. This locking mechanism should be held in place by a long fine spring. You may have to lubricate the mechanism or clean it so that it works easily and holds the turntable switch in the "on" position. You will see when you get under this thing that there may be a lot of cleaning and lubrication necessary. When you work on the underside, if you are cleaning stuff, wear rubber gloves. I have heard that the so- appearing "bare metal" parts are cadmium plated, and that the cadmium can be poisonous, so be careful. There is a pretty good copy of the manual for the 301 on this website. The manual will tell you what to lubricate. This one might be either a grease bearing or an oil bearing job, so you will have to determine that, and lubricate the spindle with the appropriate lubricant.

Check the idler wheel to be sure that it is in decent shape. It should spin evenly, and it shouldn't thump. Put a strobe on the TT and see if it runs up to speed. Strobe discs are available on this website. You will find all sorts of threads here describing ancient cabalistic Garrard rituals. These will assist you. For me, half the pleasure in owning this kind of stuff is working on it.

As for those old EV speakers. just listen and be sure that all the components, woofer, tweeter and midrange, are all working. Also, be sure that the Scott is working all right. As I remember, those things got pretty hot. Welcome among the ancient stereo Illuminati, from an old constructor!

[iain42]

Nice score! Give this site a good read on how to tear down your motor and re-lube it.

http://home.earthlink.net/~transcrubbers/index.html

It will be well worth the effort, as it is likely dry as a bone and will need a lube job. It will sound much, much better for it. Use 90w gear oil. Get an ATA Kokomo thrust bearing, and it will sound better yet.

Have fun.
David

Thank you for the information. I am creating an archive on my laptop of all 301 info I can find. Thanks for the bearing link as I hadn't found that one yet.

[iain42]

Wow!!!! You have scored stuff that would sell for a couple of grand on Ebay, for almost nothing. It's a gift. I had one of those many years ago. I got an EV Georgian and a Fisher 500C from the local YMCA for a $20.00 donation. It's a once in a lifetime score. Congratulations!!!

If I were in your shoes, I would figure out what kind of cartridge it has and get a replacement stylus for it. It'll probably track in the the 2-3 grams range, just based on the fact that it's an old Garrard arm. You should be able to remove the plugin headshell and get a look at it. You will need a stylus pressure gauge, which can be purchased from Needledoctor or other sources. I don't think that arm (Looks like a Garrard TPA 10 or TPA 12) has antiskate.

Your issues with the onoff switch can probably be cured if you get the turntable off of the unit. Take off the mat, then lift the edges of the turntable until you feel the top of the bearing travel. Thump the spindle with a rubber mallet, or you can use a regular hammer and a wood block. Don't use a metal hammer to hit the spindle. Take the tuntable off and put it out of the way somewhere. You can now turn the unit upside down. You will see that there is a little lock mechanism that holds the switch arm in position. This locking mechanism should be held in place by a long fine spring. You may have to lubricate the mechanism or clean it so that it works easily and holds the turntable switch in the "on" position. You will see when you get under this thing that there may be a lot of cleaning and lubrication necessary. When you work on the underside, if you are cleaning stuff, wear rubber gloves. I have heard that the so- appearing "bare metal" parts are cadmium plated, and that the cadmium can be poisonous, so be careful. There is a pretty good copy of the manual for the 301 on this website. The manual will tell you what to lubricate. This one might be either a grease bearing or an oil bearing job, so you will have to determine that, and lubricate the spindle with the appropriate lubricant.

Check the idler wheel to be sure that it is in decent shape. It should spin evenly, and it shouldn't thump. Put a strobe on the TT and see if it runs up to speed. Strobe discs are available on this website. You will find all sorts of threads here describing ancient cabalistic Garrard rituals. These will assist you. For me, half the pleasure in owning this kind of stuff is working on it.

As for those old EV speakers. just listen and be sure that all the components, woofer, tweeter and midrange, are all working. Also, be sure that the Scott is working all right. As I remember, those things got pretty hot. Welcome among the ancient stereo Illuminati, from an old constructor!

Thanks it was a very lucky day! I am very appreciative to the stereo gods.

I drop into these thrift stores once every couple months and usually come out empty handed. The owner of the thrift store took my cell number just in case he finds anything at the estate sales or auctions . Wow fisher and a georgian for $20. I've seen a georgian but never heard one.


The cartridge is a Shure M44E with the initials L J. I haven't found any information on it but it has exactly 260 hours according to the timer. In my stash I have another older Garrard headshell with needle but haven't researched it. I haven't used a proper table before just toys. The arm is a TPA-12. I have an old house with bouncey floors and so far the 301 has not skipped once. This is a record for a TT in my house.



I found this in the console that came with everything installed. Never used one before but it looks straightforward. Will this work or should I get a newer one. I thought it was a weed scale LOL.


I know it is a schedule two but already forgot which lube it needs. I'm going to take it nice and slow with the cleaning. I'll definately wear gloves!!

The Scott is going to NOSValves.com for a rebuild even though it was serviced in 1974 to the tune of $200. The previous owner left documentation. The EV have a nice mellow vintage sound. This is my first 3way single driver and it is interesting. Strange with the tweeter mounted in the middle of a 12 inch driver.



I have listened to the EV, Scott, and Garrard. I found a vintage record persuasive percussion vol2. The system can't compare to my Khorns or jubilee's but it has its charms.

Thank you very much for the advice and encouragement.
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[Blue Angel]

Hey lucky man

A find of a lifetime!! Good advice will follow here. A small tip if I may? Rubber hammers for tapping the platter spindle doesn't work too well. While lifting the platter, give the spindle a light crack with a small plastic mallet, or a little block of hardwood, as was said.

Tip 2: Remember you can only select speed when the on/off is in the "OFF" position.

Tip 3: If you need to work on the underside, tip the 301 over on two pinned-together pillows or cushions as those bakelite switches break very easily and are expensive to replace.

Tip 4: The very basic: Under the platter you will see two slotted screws with red paint on their heads. These screws are for transporting your 301 and should be screwed home when you relocate your 'table. They screw into the cradle which is a plate underneath the motor. Ensure these screws are fully undone when your 'table is in use.

Is it an oil bearing model or grease bearing? Grease bearing models are distinguishable by a brass nozzle fitted with a knurled brass screw cap and located just above midway up the side of the spindle housing.

blue

[iain42]

Hey lucky man

A find of a lifetime!! Good advice will follow here. A small tip if I may? Rubber hammers for tapping the platter spindle doesn't work too well. While lifting the platter, give the spindle a light crack with a small plastic mallet, or a little block of hardwood, as was said.

Tip 2: Remember you can only select speed when the on/off is in the "OFF" position.

Tip 3: If you need to work on the underside, tip the 301 over on two pinned-together pillows or cushions as those bakelite switches break very easily and are expensive to replace.

Tip 4: The very basic: Under the platter you will see two slotted screws with red paint on their heads. These screws are for transporting your 301 and should be screwed home when you relocate your 'table. They screw into the cradle which is a plate underneath the motor. Ensure these screws are fully undone when your 'table is in use.

Is it an oil bearing model or grease bearing? Grease bearing models are distinguishable by a brass nozzle fitted with a knurled brass screw cap and located just above midway up the side of the spindle housing.

blue

I'll take a vintage system design over the more modern any day of the week. There is something special about mid century modern design and the quality of the craftsmanship is usually superb. My Klipschorns may be from 1978 but they were perfected in this golden age of design. Just my nostalgic opinion.

I've been carefully reading 301 threads onthis forum and making notes. I read the manual once before I did anything with the table and I'll probably read it a couple of times this week. Last night I carefully took platter off while my girlfriend lightly tapped the top of the spindle with a new shoe with rubber soul It came right up with a little work. The platter is so thick and heavy. I took some pics topside but forgot to upload them.


Oil or grease I am not sure but here are some pics.

[Blue Angel]

Hi

It's an oilbearing 301 but that makes no difference to the treasure you have found. I am the custodian of 4 of these oldtimers and a 401, of which one is a cream grease bearing. I also have a similar Garrard arm on one of mine which I use for 78rpm records. The arm originally came with a matching cream headshell branded Shure but some time ago, I fitted a brown bakelite shell to it, after fitting a 4th contact pin. A week or two ago, I found the same h'shell with the red finger lift as you have on yours and have just fitted the extra pin mod as I re-wired the arm a while back.

Here's another trick: When you place the platter back over the spindle, push the power "ON" switch slightly towards "ON" to avoid fouling the brake.

blue

[Alec124c41]

Re the pressure gauge: I have a later model (1-piece stamped hook) That seems pretty accurate, and it is very easy to use.

Cheers,
Alec

[iain42]

Hi

It's an oilbearing 301 but that makes no difference to the treasure you have found. I am the custodian of 4 of these oldtimers and a 401, of which one is a cream grease bearing. I also have a similar Garrard arm on one of mine which I use for 78rpm records. The arm originally came with a matching cream headshell branded Shure but some time ago, I fitted a brown bakelite shell to it, after fitting a 4th contact pin. A week or two ago, I found the same h'shell with the red finger lift as you have on yours and have just fitted the extra pin mod as I re-wired the arm a while back.

Here's another trick: When you place the platter back over the spindle, push the power "ON" switch slightly towards "ON" to avoid fouling the brake.

blue

Wow 4! I'm just feel lucky to have stumbled upon one.

I'm going to go pick up the oil this week. Anything wrong with slick50?

The TPA tonearm is a real nice piece of retro design. it may night be the best but it looks cool. I have some 78's I'd love to play. Just picked up Raymond Scotts Powerhouse 78 on his Master label. My plinth design is going to hopefully include mount points 9 10 11 inch tonearms. I'll likely start with a 9 inch tonearm and eventually use others later. Is there anything wrong with just including extra mount points on the plinth even if they aren't going to be used until later?

Re the pressure gauge: I have a later model (1-piece stamped hook) That seems pretty accurate, and it is very easy to use.
Cheers,
Alec

Excellent one less thing to buy.

[iain42]

Topless pics. It looks good to me but what do I know.







Thanks for the advice everyone

[Blue Angel]

Hi

I'm not to sure about the Slick. I've been using Castrol Final Drive EPX85W140 Gear oil for many years without any adverse effects. I have a trick with topping up the oil. I take a piece of wire from a coathanger and let the oil run along that, positioned over the oil filler hole which avoids spilling.

You may find some speed stability issues if the 301 has not been used for a while. I usually take a lintfree cloth and give the inside platter rim's surface a wipe with a bit of lacquer thinner, the cloth being barely damp of course. With another clean piece of cloth damped with a bit of thinner, you may give the idlerwheel's edge a wipe as well. This will not remove glazing, if present and for that, I have another cure.

Spent last night listening to 78rpm's, using the TPA 12 arm, now fitted with the cream Garrard h'shell, a Shure SC35C cart modified for 78's and that red fingerlift is just too cool-looking.

blue

[josephazannieri]

I looked up the specs for the Shure M44E in my file of ancient cartridge specs. Believe it or not, it is slightly LESS compliant that the M44-7. The spec on the M44E is 15, on the M44-7 is 20 x 10-6 cm/dyne. The tracking force spec on the M44-7 is 1 1/2 -3 grams, the spec on the M44E is 1 1/2-4 grams. My suggestion would be 4 grams, since it is usually best to track the cartridge near the max. The pressure gauge you have should work well enough, so long as it isn't bent, and all the little rivet joints are not sticking. Just stick the hook under the stylus, and lift by the long support rod. The stylus cantilever looks OK in your pix, but you will probably have to clean off the stylus.

Blue Angel suggests wiping the inside of the TT with lacquer thinner. That is OK, so long as there is no paint on the inside of the TT. My 301 is one of those old grey jobs, and it has paint in there. If there is paint, the lacquer thinner will sometimes lift it, or crinkle it up. I use alcohol, which usually will not affect the paint. If you do lift the paint, I would suggest using a brillo pad, with soap, to clean off the damaged paint, and then be sure that there is no paint at all under the rim.

Your idler wheel looks a little shiny. You have 2 options. The quick, dirty and cheap option is to turn the motor on, hold the idler wheel against the spindle, and sand it a little bit with some 220 wet or dry sand paper (dry). Just hold the sandpaper gently against the edge of the idler while spinning at 78 RPM. Don't go crazy. Sand it lightly, just enough to take the shine off it and expose some new rubber. There is also some stuff called Re-Grip Rubber Cleaner and Rejuvenator that is available from Parts Express. About $8.35 per bottle. It lasts a long time. Paint that on the idler wheel. It will help. Just follow the instructions. You can also clean the idler with a little alcohol, but don't soak it. You don't want to hurt the idler with the alcohol.

You say that the rig has a "mellow" sound. You can adjust this to bring out the highs a little more if you want. I think you will find that the University Mustang speaker that you have has a pot for adjusting the highs. It will either be on the back of the speaker box, a little knob, or if you look inside the back of the speaker, you will find the wire and the pot hanging off the back of the speaker. Turn it up all the way, and stick your ear right up to the center tweeter. You should be able to hear the highs separately, and they should be noticeably loud. If not, you may have to inspect further, because your tweeter may be blown. This does happen sometimes, paricularly when small amplifiers like that Scott are overdriven. The distortion heats up the voice coil in the tweeter. Any further speaker problems can be discussed here. Once again, good luck with this wonderful old system.

[Blue Angel]

Hi

The thinner mentioned is intended only to remove the often present idler rubber mark on the platter's inside and should not be under any circumstances applied to the cream paintwork on the chassis. Exposing a fresh contact area on the idlerwheel is fine. Fortunately, I have a lathe and chucked the i/wheel by the brass spindle bush and fitted a diamond coated tool into the cross-slide and managed to get a perfect, flat edge of 'new' rubber on the wheel. This cured some speed stability issues I had with thisd particular 301.

blue