brighton123 wrote:Spiceyokooko, The (Early) Ariston RD11 and The Linn LP12 are almost identical, made in the same factory, courtcase etc this is well documented, I was using them with the the same Mose Herc PS hence why I thought that the test was a fair one, I have since done lots of reading on the finer points of LP12 setup and done a bit of tweaking...
I appreciate the Linn and RD80 share the same origins, but the Linn has benefitted from constant development/improvement whereas the RD80 hasn't. You're also using two different cartridges in two quite different arms.
Given you're a long time RD80 user, I must assume you know how to setup the Linn suspension correctly. You mention you've only just acquired the Linn, but have you replaced the springs/grommets and given it an oil change? Are you certain there's no play or wear in the bearing? Have you tested the Ittok for arm bearing play? Have you checked the sub chassis is correctly bolted and attached? Have you leveled the deck and then correctly setup the Linn so the suspension bounces up and down with no sideways drift?
Linns really do need to be setup correctly to give of their best and as I have the same Linn/Ittok you do I know how time consuming and fiddly the job can be, but it makes all the difference in the world. In my experience, I've never liked the earlier SME's on Linns and the Ittok is a far better arm designed specifically to be used on the LP12 which is why I'm struggling to understand how you appear to be getting better results from the RD80/SME. The Linn/Ittok/OC9 should be several notches ahead of the RD80/SME combination.
I do urge you to try the same cartridge in both decks as I think that may tell you a lot about the relative merits of the two setups. There are other improvements you can make to the Linn (depending on which ones it has fitted already) before I'd start thinking about re-wiring the arm. The Ittok is not really the weak link here.
Just my opinion of course.